speeddemonlsr
Member
How long will ick last on a fish if no treatment is given? Will it eventually fall off and die?
Ick
- Thread starter speeddemonlsr
- Start date
nicetry
Active Member
Originally Posted by speeddemonlsr
How long will ick last on a fish if no treatment is given? Will it eventually fall off and die?
The parasite has a life cycle that is only interrupted without a fish host. As long as there are fish in the tank, the parasite continues to reproduce and will infect the fish. Some fish can build up an immunity, but in most cases you need to treat any infected fish. Left untreated, the parasite will eventually weaken and kill the fish.
How long will ick last on a fish if no treatment is given? Will it eventually fall off and die?
The parasite has a life cycle that is only interrupted without a fish host. As long as there are fish in the tank, the parasite continues to reproduce and will infect the fish. Some fish can build up an immunity, but in most cases you need to treat any infected fish. Left untreated, the parasite will eventually weaken and kill the fish.
speeddemonlsr
Member
Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!
geridoc
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by speeddemonlsr
Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!
The alternative to hypo is copper, which will kill all of the inverts in your dt. Your best bet is to start a qt, move your fish into it and begin hypo. Monitor ammonium closely, and when it rises, either add Amquel Plus, or do frequent water changes to control the levels. Leave the dt without fish for 6 weeks, then return the fish to it and everything will be fine, and there will be no ich in your system.
Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!
The alternative to hypo is copper, which will kill all of the inverts in your dt. Your best bet is to start a qt, move your fish into it and begin hypo. Monitor ammonium closely, and when it rises, either add Amquel Plus, or do frequent water changes to control the levels. Leave the dt without fish for 6 weeks, then return the fish to it and everything will be fine, and there will be no ich in your system.
nicetry
Active Member
Originally Posted by speeddemonlsr
Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!
You're going to severely limit yourself by not wanting to perform hyposalinity or not using a quarantine tank. In 10+ years of being in the marine hobby, there are honestly no bottled medications I can endorse with any certainty. You're free to try them but run the risk of them not working and having your fish get worse. A hospital tank can be set up for cheap.
What kind of fish do you have, how long have they had the symptoms?
Okay so what is the best medication I can buy? I dont have a sick tank(learn my lesson). I have a 75 gallon with live rock starfish,snails and other fish, my temp is 80, all other tests right on. I dont want to do hypo some on please help!
You're going to severely limit yourself by not wanting to perform hyposalinity or not using a quarantine tank. In 10+ years of being in the marine hobby, there are honestly no bottled medications I can endorse with any certainty. You're free to try them but run the risk of them not working and having your fish get worse. A hospital tank can be set up for cheap.
What kind of fish do you have, how long have they had the symptoms?
speeddemonlsr
Member
Originally Posted by nicetry
You're going to severely limit yourself by not wanting to perform hyposalinity or not using a quarantine tank. In 10+ years of being in the marine hobby, there are honestly no bottled medications I can endorse with any certainty. You're free to try them but run the risk of them not working and having your fish get worse. A hospital tank can be set up for cheap.
What kind of fish do you have, how long have they had the symptoms?
I have a coral beauity angel and a hippo tang(the other fish have no symptoms, no agressive fish) I feed zeocon, add garlic extreme, formula 1 and 2, seaweed sheets . So your suggesting doing hypo salinity and that will clear it up?
You're going to severely limit yourself by not wanting to perform hyposalinity or not using a quarantine tank. In 10+ years of being in the marine hobby, there are honestly no bottled medications I can endorse with any certainty. You're free to try them but run the risk of them not working and having your fish get worse. A hospital tank can be set up for cheap.
What kind of fish do you have, how long have they had the symptoms?
I have a coral beauity angel and a hippo tang(the other fish have no symptoms, no agressive fish) I feed zeocon, add garlic extreme, formula 1 and 2, seaweed sheets . So your suggesting doing hypo salinity and that will clear it up?
speeddemonlsr
Member
Thanks I will the hypo method, now the hard part trying to catch the fish with 100 lbs of live rock without stressing the other fish.
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by speeddemonlsr
Thanks I will the hypo method, now the hard part trying to catch the fish with 100 lbs of live rock without stressing the other fish.
You will have to treat all of your fish. They have all been exposed. What kind of sand do you have? Is it true live sand? Was it wet when you bought it? If it was not wet then you can remove your rock and inverts into a rubbermaid tub with a heater and a powerhead. It is very difficult to hypo fish in an uncycled tank. You will have to do daily water changes to compensate for the poor water quality. The tub will not need to cycle for the rocks. You can hypo the display.
Thanks I will the hypo method, now the hard part trying to catch the fish with 100 lbs of live rock without stressing the other fish.
You will have to treat all of your fish. They have all been exposed. What kind of sand do you have? Is it true live sand? Was it wet when you bought it? If it was not wet then you can remove your rock and inverts into a rubbermaid tub with a heater and a powerhead. It is very difficult to hypo fish in an uncycled tank. You will have to do daily water changes to compensate for the poor water quality. The tub will not need to cycle for the rocks. You can hypo the display.
speeddemonlsr
Member
well I have two 20gal spare tanks, can I take the water out of my display tanks to fill the qt and then treat with hypo. I have had the tank for 6 months and no the sand was not live it was dry but should be live now.
speeddemonlsr
Member
sorry another question if I hypo the display tank do I have to remove the sand? Its about 2 inches thick?
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by speeddemonlsr
sorry another question if I hypo the display tank do I have to remove the sand? Its about 2 inches thick?
No, you do not have to remove the sand. The bacteria will not die in the lower salinity. You can use tank water for the 20 gallons if you want, but biological bacteria does not live in the water itself. It colonizes on porous surfaces in the tank. The tanks will still cycle. It is up to you on where you want to treat the fish. Personally, I would keep the fish in the display and move the rocks and inverts into another container. The fish will not have to deal with a cycling tank and they do not have to be caught.
sorry another question if I hypo the display tank do I have to remove the sand? Its about 2 inches thick?
No, you do not have to remove the sand. The bacteria will not die in the lower salinity. You can use tank water for the 20 gallons if you want, but biological bacteria does not live in the water itself. It colonizes on porous surfaces in the tank. The tanks will still cycle. It is up to you on where you want to treat the fish. Personally, I would keep the fish in the display and move the rocks and inverts into another container. The fish will not have to deal with a cycling tank and they do not have to be caught.