If not MH lights then?

reefnut

reefnut

Active Member
Halide reading taken directly below a lamp 92 UMOL's, T5 reading taken in the same basic area 145 UMOL's.
Where are the PAR readings at "18.5 below the surface"?? It is nice to see some actual data from the T5s. Hey, I could be wrong (it's happened before) but everything I've read disagrees with your findings. I would like to see the readings at 18.5".... that reading is a LOT more important than directly under the bulbs.
The reason I don't think they compare is it take so many tubes to come close to the out put of MHs. Try that same test with some real MHs like 3-250w DE... or a few 400w...
I said in an other post that T5s have earned their place in the reefers world but not as replacements to MHs. I still beleave that...
It's funny when people say T5's don't compare to MH, they just judge T5's and they don't even know

[hr]
about them.haha
I guess you have nothing intelligent to say so being rude makes you feel better??
 
shep77

shep77

Member
Everybody SHUSH!

My question is about the new ODYSSEA setup which has
2-175 MH and four 21W T5 actinics. The only problem with the setup was that the 175 are 20,000K so the whole thing is major blue!!!
The look of the system is sweet and they are both on duel controls and fans and the price is right. I would just rather not have to buy 2 different bulbs to offset the blue tint when I am already spending money. I have only found two places online that carry these and one doesn't ship.
Could you maybe reccomend a similar setup instead of arguing over who is a liar!? :mad:
 
cveverly

cveverly

Member

Originally posted by shep77
My question is about the new ODYSSEA setup which has
2-175 MH and four 21W T5 actinics.

Do they make this with 250 watt MH? I have seen side by side 250 - 125 watt MH and the 250 is MUCH brighter.
 
shep77

shep77

Member
Like I said, only two places online I have seen carry them and they have two models, a 175 and a 150 dual MH. I would love a 250 or more but... Right now I just have sitting there, left over from FW, a 48" shoplight. I had thought about running two MH pendants and then putting in 48" actinics in this shoplight fixture but did not think it would be adequate. Thoughts??? BTW this is all hidden so it doesn't have to look good and I am not handy enough to be building lights...
:)
 
jeremyglen

jeremyglen

Member
If you want a good looking fixture with lots of light for your tank, Aquamedic makes the Oceanlight series with many different options. I have the 250W and 70W pendants. I am going to get the Oceanlight plus with either dual 150W/250W DE + T5's. You can use a search engine to find them. Go to AquaMedic's website to check out there selection. They also have some great T5 setups as well.
 
reefraff

reefraff

Active Member

Originally posted by ReefNut
Halide reading taken directly below a lamp 92 UMOL's, T5 reading taken in the same basic area 145 UMOL's.
Where are the PAR readings at "18.5 below the surface"?? It is nice to see some actual data from the T5s. Hey, I could be wrong (it's happened before) but everything I've read disagrees with your findings. I would like to see the readings at 18.5".... that reading is a LOT more important than directly under the bulbs.

Those are the readings 18.5" under the water. The sensor was directly under the halide lamp on the sand.
 
reefraff

reefraff

Active Member

Originally posted by jedi
I chose to go with VHO lighting. I have 660 watts of VHO on my 90 gallon. I can keep pretty much anything I want in the tank. ( just have to place some things higher.)
I run my vHO on a schedule which turns on 2 blue actinics , then 1.5 hours later rthe rest of the lights come on, they run for 8 hours, then they turn off and the 2 blue actinics run for 1.5 hours more.
I never have a temp fluctuation more tan 2 degrees.(79.6 in the Am, and 82.3 in the evening)
Vho are cheaper to replace, and only need to be replaced annualy.
Just another opinion to add to your decision...
Jedi
Keep your eyes open for T6 (not T5) lamps. They are designed to be a slip in replacement for VHO's, will run on same ballast, endcap and are standard lengths. They are supposed to be brighter and are small enough for a parabolic reflector which is what makes T5's so good. If the price is right it would be worth a try when it is time to relamp your VHO's.
 
shep77

shep77

Member
can anyone direct me to some photos on here or another site that has a tank with all actinics or blue MH's? I looked through a lot of posts but did not find a tank that looked like that. would the 20,000 be just too blue? Although the ocean is kinda blue.
that or send me the websites that you use to purchase light equipment. On one auction site, not the main one, a guy has for sale the odyessea set up for more than what you can buy it for online. I think I am limiting myself to browsing prices on only a few sites, 5 of them, and maybe missing a deal.
shepamic@brf.org
 
jedi

jedi

Member
Reefnut,
Hey thanks alot for that heads up my friend. I will definatly start looking into T-6's.
That is what I was talking about in regards to the "new actinics", they are working on. I just didnt know they would be compatible with the VHO set up.
Jedi
:happyfish
follow up:
Reefnut,
I looked and I see the T6 are available, but only in 55 watt max per bulb. I am not sure if these are what you are talking about.
If you dont mind, maybe shoot me an email, and we could "talk" a little more about this .
stephen@frontiernet.net
Thanks ,
Jedi
 
bseth90

bseth90

Member
I would like to know about these T6s that are compatiable with the vho ballast as well. At 55 watt though....how is that enough light?
 
reefraff

reefraff

Active Member
People who have gone from 110 watt VHO's to 54watt T5's say the T5's are brighter. I have no practical experience with VHO's so I can't really say that is right or not. The VHO ballast will actually drive the 55 watt T6 lamp at around 90 watts. That should be pretty bright on it's own but there is also going to be parabolic reflectors coming for these as well. Those reflectors about double the output of a T5 over a flat white one, that I have measured with a PAR meter. There are VHO T6's in the works, I have a couple of 110 watt actinic "test subjects" and they are pretty bright running on a 40 watt coralife ballast. I have come up with a way to run them full power but haven't had the chance to do it yet.
I should make one thing more clear. T6 lamps in general were developed because they are a direct replacement for standard lamps, no special endcaps and the lengths match up. They are also easier on ballasts than T5's. My friend who is developing the aquarium lamps sees their strength as a replacement for VHO lamps untilthe VHO T6's systems are ready to be released. He has no input on pricing so that will be a big factor but these should cost less than VHO's.
 
reefraff

reefraff

Active Member
Tried to post a pic of the tank lit by 2 of the VHO actinic lamps running at 40 watts each instead of the 110 watts they are rated for. I e-mailed the pic to Jedi, maybe he can post it.
 
jedi

jedi

Member
I have the pic, but I cannot get it to post either. Seems to be a problem here at SWF. I am sure it will be resolved soon
Thanks for all the info and links to read upon this topic.
Have a great day,
Jedi
 
bseth90

bseth90

Member
Boy you can tell that's only 3rd the power. my 110 atinics are much brighter than those. But I'd still like to see these t6s when the kinks are worked out.
 
shep77

shep77

Member
I am not computer illiterate but feel that way. I want to find pics of tanks with just the actinics on. Thanks for that one Jedi, now I want to see them on full power to see if it is too blue.
Can you direct me?
 
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