In need of a fish list.

btldreef

Moderator
pH buffers only fix a problem temporarily, you need to figure out why your pH was low in the first place. Personally, I don't believe in buffering pH with chemicals, not even from the AquaVitro line (that I swear by).
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbr0828 http:///forum/thread/385079/in-need-of-a-fish-list/20#post_3376517
what hould be causing the ph to drop? i just added some new live rock, maybe thats it?

When you do your top offs with RO water add a little pinch of reef buffer, baking soda or alkalinity buffer to it. Keeping the alkalinity up will stabilize the PH. I was told your tank uses up the alkalinity; you have to keep the alkalinity up, because if it drops the PH is affected.

I don't know all the tech stuff of why...but I know if you keep the Alk up by buffering the RO top off water it works to stabilize the PH. Some folks dose with kalk to keep alkalinity up.
 

jmbr0828

Member
my alkalinity was too high, according to the charts on my api test kit. I can't remember exactly was it was, but i think it was 16-17dkh, and it was supposed to be like 11-12
 

btldreef

Moderator
high alk and low pH usually means that your water is not getting aerated enough. You might need more powerheads aimed toward the surface, and in some occasions people have to put an airstone in the refugium or sump.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbr0828 http:///forum/thread/385079/in-need-of-a-fish-list/20#post_3376520
my alkalinity was too high, according to the charts on my api test kit. I can't remember exactly was it was, but i think it was 16-17dkh, and it was supposed to be like 11-12

Leave it alone and in a few days it will drop. When did you test your PH? Late in the day is best, early in the morning will give you the lowest reading.
Also be careful to follow directions on the test kit. Add the one drop, put the cap on and shake then add the next drop.
Years ago I was at a LFS and I asked them to do a test to double check my readings ( I used Red Sea at the time) ...the kid added some drops and counted then added some more...not 1 at a time like the instructions say. He said it didn't matter but I know better. I bought the same API test kit and did it right...the kids readings were way off.
Also if you have a refugium and add macro algae...put the lights on at night when the tanks lights are off...that way the PH will be the same night and day and not drop by early morning.
 

btldreef

Moderator
I went back to your first post on this thread. You say that the one powerhead really isn't putting out very much. This alone could be your issue, with aeration as I mentioned above.
55's are not wide tanks so they don't provide the greatest surface area for the water to mix with the air. This can cause a higher CO2 level in the water which drops your pH, but keeps your alkalinity higher. I fight this problem myself in my 155. Even with a refugium with good macro algae, it's not going to consume the CO2 at the same rate as if you better agitated/aerated the surface water. If you have a lifter pump, add an airstone to it and throw it in your refugium or sump, it can really help. I just had to readjust my return to aim higher and give the surface more agitation because my pH was lowering and the alk was high. It's a common overlooked issue. STOP using buffer. Buffer is a band aid, you're just covering up the problem, but it's still there. You need to find what causes your high alk and low pH.
 

jmbr0828

Member
well the good news it, just before i left for three days (had to go out of town for business, but my wife is there) I just bought another koralia 1050 gph PH and aimed it at a slightly upward angle, I already bought some macro algea and it had been in the sump for a couple of weeks. but I have had the light over the fuge on at the same time as the display, so when I get back, I will put it on its own timer. I think my frogspawn may have brown jelly, it seems to be receding more and more every day.
 
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