In need of help, please

K

kpatrick

Guest
This may be long so please bear with me....
After having a FOWLR setup for 3 years I decided to convert to a reef tank with soft and hard corals. I made the switch about 6 months ago and ever since I have had several battles with hair algea and purple/blua algea on my rocks (looks like cyno but not red). I cant figure out what to do to get my tank looking great again. I will give you all my specs and hopefully someone can tell me what im missing. I love the tank but this stuff is starting to discourage me
The tank is a 125 gallon. It has around 200lbs of live rock. It has (2) Emperor 400s for water movement (no filters just movement) and (4) maxijet 1200s connected to a Wavemaster Pro. I also have a Seaclone 150 (I know its not the best). My lights are (3) 250W 14K Hamilton MH bulbs. The center one is a HQI and the other 2 are single ended. I keep the lights on for 6 hours a day. Water parameters are as follows:
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0
Ammonia: 0
Phosphates: 0 ( I have also used sponges and medications just incase the reading in off.
Calcium: 420
Alk: 8.2
salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
MY fish include:
Foxface
Hippo tang
3 clown fish
royal gramma
watchman goby
2 clown gobies
(15) turbo snails
I have recently been thinking about doing away with the Emperor 400s and getting a 30 gallon refugium and fill it with cheato. Im not sure if the refugium or a better skimmer would be useful or if those would even fix the issues im having. Compared to a lot of other tanks I do not have much coraline algea. Im not sure if thats a indicater that im missing something or not. The only additives I put in the tank arte B-ionic supplements when needed. I have been doing 15 gallon water changes weekly.
I could really use help!!! I thought I knew what I was doing since I have had the tank going for several years but obviously I do not. I posted this on the reef page but didnt get anyone to help!!
 

usinkit

Member
Are you sure your test results on nitrates and phosphates are at 0. Maybe your test kits are no longer good. Are you using ro/di water? If you are having that much trouble for that period of time I would think your nitrates and phosphates would be high then. I would definately upgrade the skimmer. I ran the same skimmer on my reef and it did very little but when I started running my Berlin skimmer it pulled alot of stuff out of the tank. I would say your tank was adjusting to the new lights but you say its been running for 6 months that amount of time everything should of balanced out by now if your nitrates and phosphates were at 0 and the skimmer was running rite.
 
K

kpatrick

Guest
I am using DI water. I also usew Salifert test kits however I know phosphate tests can give you the wrong reading. I debating on whats more important.. the 30gallon fuge or better skimmer? It just gets frustrating when you look in the tank and see algea taking over.
 

usinkit

Member
I dont know what to say. Its sounds like you have done everything rite and there should be no bad algea at all. The only other thing you may want to do is test your di water maybe thats were there is a problem. Test it for phophates.
 
K

kpatrick

Guest
Thanks for trying to help usinkit.
I always test the di water before putting it in my tank. I have a TDS meter and it always reads close to zero. I cant figure it out either. I just ordered some Phosban so lets see what happens with that. If it works I may just have to do preventative treatments monthly or so to eliminate the algea before it starts since no one including myself an figure out whats causing it.
 

usinkit

Member
I have used phosban before and it did help. Make sure when you run the phosban you rinse it in di water first then run it for 48 hours pull it out for another 48 hours and run it again for another 48 hours and that should pull any phosphates out. Good luck
 
K

kpatrick

Guest
Phosban is on its way. I cant believe no one else has any helpful advise. Ever since Kipp disappears it seems like everyone has become shy.
 

usinkit

Member
I think its because all your readings are coming up 0 and it seems you have down everything rite. Its just a mind boggler.
 
K

kpatrick

Guest
It sure is a mind boggler. I cant even get help in building my refugium. I hate to waste the time and money on a fuge if a 30 gallon isnt going to be big enough. My plan is to have a 30 gallon with 2 baffles right before the return pump and the rest will be filled with cheato. I will use a mag 5 pump with 3/4 flex tubing to run up to the tank. I will by an overflow on ---- with 600 to 700 gph max flow and run flex tubing into the fuge. Does all this sound good?? anyone? My only concern is how do I make baffles for a glass tank and what size light do I need to keep the dheato healthy but not overdue it and create tons of micro algea in the fuge
 

usinkit

Member
Iam also going to be building a refugium 30 gallons for my 30 gallon display. I dont see any problem with a 30 for your tank. Baffles can be made from glass and siliconed into place. Lighting I dont really no much about that yet just getting into this myself, but I dont think it has to be any elaborate lighting.
 

promisetbg

Active Member
Kpatrick,I would say one of your problems is your lack of a clean-up crew.15 turbo snails is'nt nearly enough for a 125 gal tank.I would start there.Get some hermit crabs..I prefer scarlets.Perhaps an atlantic cucumber or two for your sandbed,and a couple fighting conches,or one queen conch.Beef up your turbos as well..get some ceriths,nassarius,mexican turbos,trochus,strombus,snails..diversity will help.Each snail and clean-up crew member has a different job.
As for your phosphate test,it can read 0,because the algae is living off of it..you get a false reading.
When is the last time you changed your bulbs?If you are growing corals,how come you don't have any actinic lights to compliment the halides?How well is your skimmer working?Back off on feeding to every other day,and watch the amount you put in...go easy.Increase your water change amount to 30 gal. a week.A refugium would help..chaeto needs pretty good lighting..I would get a power compact set-up.Over my 29 fuge I have 2X 65 wt PC's..I run the lights opposite display.I also run my halides for 10 hours,and actinic VHO's for 12 hours.Another thing that may help is manual removal..do this slowly.Take the rocks,corals,whatever has the hair algae out,and scrub with a new toothbrush or other soft brush,until it's removed.I have even scrubbed small amounts of hair algae right in the tank,and it has gone away.Other critters that may help...a lawnmower or bi-color blenny,a sea hare,lettuce nudibranchs.Most important though,find the reason you are having the problem,my guess is lack of clean-up crew and over-feeding.
 
K

kpatrick

Guest
Promisetbg,
Thanks for the reply. Let me try to answer all your questions you asked me. I am currently feeding every other day and the reason I dont have any actinics is that I am running 14K bulbs (only 3 months old) and dont need any additional "blue" lighting. Is there any other reason to run actinics? I will beef up my snail population but I just removed about 20 hermits a few months ago because it seemed like they were killing my snails and conches so a prefer to stay away from hermits. I will also pick up a couple fighting conches. I do have 2 sand sifter stars and a brittle and serpant star as well. I will just increase the variety of snails.
I have considered a LMB but im afraid he will pick on my watchman goby. I have scrubbed all the hair algea off the rocks that I was able to remove from my tank and they seem to be the ones getting the blueish cyno on them.
I will try to get a fuge going, get some more snails, and get a couple fighting conches for the sand (tried nudi before and he got munched by the powerhead)
Thanks again for your help
 

team2jnd

New Member
Is the algae in your water? If it is i had that same problem. I purchased a UV sterilizer for 130 dollars and a good skimmer for 130$ and within a week my tank was crystal clear. The UV sterilizer kills all the algae and harful bacteria and then the skimmer removes the dead waste from the tank.
 
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