iodine?
- Thread starter chadman
- Start date
reeferman1
Member
When testing for iodine, what should the normal reading be?
ctgretzky9
Member
Iodine tests are inaccurate, no matter the brand.
I only dose a small amount if my test reading is at almost nil. But for the most part, iodine is well replenished in regular water changes.
When I do dose, I use the lowest dosage.
I only dose a small amount if my test reading is at almost nil. But for the most part, iodine is well replenished in regular water changes.
When I do dose, I use the lowest dosage.
reeferman1
Member
Originally Posted by ctgretzky9
Iodine tests are inaccurate, no matter the brand.
I only dose a small amount if my test reading is at almost nil. But for the most part, iodine is well replenished in regular water changes.
When I do dose, I use the lowest dosage.
Thanx ct, I tested last night and it was nil after doing a 10% weekly water change on Sunday for my 90 gal. :notsure:
Iodine tests are inaccurate, no matter the brand.
I only dose a small amount if my test reading is at almost nil. But for the most part, iodine is well replenished in regular water changes.
When I do dose, I use the lowest dosage.
Thanx ct, I tested last night and it was nil after doing a 10% weekly water change on Sunday for my 90 gal. :notsure:
ctgretzky9
Member
Originally Posted by Reeferman1
Thanx ct, I tested last night and it was nil after doing a 10% weekly water change on Sunday for my 90 gal. :notsure:
Test it twice, and then make sure your test is correct. Most iodine tests come with a reagent to test the accuracy of the test itself.
With such a small water change, it could be you arent replacing the trace elements enough.
If it is nil, then feel free to dose a bit.
Thanx ct, I tested last night and it was nil after doing a 10% weekly water change on Sunday for my 90 gal. :notsure:
Test it twice, and then make sure your test is correct. Most iodine tests come with a reagent to test the accuracy of the test itself.
With such a small water change, it could be you arent replacing the trace elements enough.
If it is nil, then feel free to dose a bit.
reeferman1
Member
Will test, then test again.
Also, I thought a 10% weekly water change is acceptable?
Also, I thought a 10% weekly water change is acceptable?
ctgretzky9
Member
Originally Posted by Reeferman1
Will test, then test again.
Also, I thought a 10% weekly water change is acceptable?
I feel any water change program you are on is fine, as long as what is in your tank is healthy. If everything is looking good, dont change what you are doing.
WC frequncy and quantity is a personal choice, and there is no way someone can tell you what is acceptable or not, especially since every tank is completely different.
I personally like doing a bit more of a change. Probably around 20% per week or so.
But, I have an overstocked tank, I overfeed, and my lights are on for more of the day, and as well my tank gets natural sunlight.
Will test, then test again.
Also, I thought a 10% weekly water change is acceptable?
I feel any water change program you are on is fine, as long as what is in your tank is healthy. If everything is looking good, dont change what you are doing.
WC frequncy and quantity is a personal choice, and there is no way someone can tell you what is acceptable or not, especially since every tank is completely different.
I personally like doing a bit more of a change. Probably around 20% per week or so.
But, I have an overstocked tank, I overfeed, and my lights are on for more of the day, and as well my tank gets natural sunlight.
reeferman1
Member
Originally Posted by ctgretzky9
I feel any water change program you are on is fine, as long as what is in your tank is healthy. If everything is looking good, dont change what you are doing.
WC frequncy and quantity is a personal choice, and there is no way someone can tell you what is acceptable or not, especially since every tank is completely different.
I personally like doing a bit more of a change. Probably around 20% per week or so.
But, I have an overstocked tank, I overfeed, and my lights are on for more of the day, and as well my tank gets natural sunlight.
I've had the tank up and running for 6 months.
Parameters:
Temp: 80
Salinity: 1.26
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: o
Ammonia: 0
Copper: 0
PH: 8.1
Alk: 2.30
Cal: 470
Never added any buffers until last night. I added baking soda to my top-off water to raise the Alk. Hopefully this will lower my Cal to 400-425 as well.
What should normal Alk and Cal levels be-2.9 and 400-425 respectfully?
I feel any water change program you are on is fine, as long as what is in your tank is healthy. If everything is looking good, dont change what you are doing.
WC frequncy and quantity is a personal choice, and there is no way someone can tell you what is acceptable or not, especially since every tank is completely different.
I personally like doing a bit more of a change. Probably around 20% per week or so.
But, I have an overstocked tank, I overfeed, and my lights are on for more of the day, and as well my tank gets natural sunlight.
I've had the tank up and running for 6 months.
Parameters:
Temp: 80
Salinity: 1.26
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: o
Ammonia: 0
Copper: 0
PH: 8.1
Alk: 2.30
Cal: 470
Never added any buffers until last night. I added baking soda to my top-off water to raise the Alk. Hopefully this will lower my Cal to 400-425 as well.
What should normal Alk and Cal levels be-2.9 and 400-425 respectfully?
ctgretzky9
Member
Originally Posted by Reeferman1
I've had the tank up and running for 6 months.
Parameters:
Temp: 80
Salinity: 1.26
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: o
Ammonia: 0
Copper: 0
PH: 8.1
Alk: 2.30
Cal: 470
Never added any buffers until last night. I added baking soda to my top-off water to raise the Alk. Hopefully this will lower my Cal to 400-425 as well.
What should normal Alk and Cal levels be-2.9 and 400-425 respectfully?
I think you mean your specific gravity is 1.026? Not 1.26.....they would be dead!
Alk should be around 3.5 meq/l to 4.0 meq/l. Calcium around 420-440 or so.
Continue to build your alk SLOWLY. Let calcium drop on its own, but 470 isnt horrible at all.
Everything else looks great.
I've had the tank up and running for 6 months.
Parameters:
Temp: 80
Salinity: 1.26
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: o
Ammonia: 0
Copper: 0
PH: 8.1
Alk: 2.30
Cal: 470
Never added any buffers until last night. I added baking soda to my top-off water to raise the Alk. Hopefully this will lower my Cal to 400-425 as well.
What should normal Alk and Cal levels be-2.9 and 400-425 respectfully?
I think you mean your specific gravity is 1.026? Not 1.26.....they would be dead!
Alk should be around 3.5 meq/l to 4.0 meq/l. Calcium around 420-440 or so.
Continue to build your alk SLOWLY. Let calcium drop on its own, but 470 isnt horrible at all.
Everything else looks great.
reeferman1
Member
Originally Posted by ctgretzky9
I think you mean your specific gravity is 1.026? Not 1.26.....they would be dead!
Alk should be around 3.5 meq/l to 4.0 meq/l. Calcium around 420-440 or so.
Continue to build your alk SLOWLY. Let calcium drop on its own, but 470 isnt horrible at all.
Everything else looks great.
Yes, 1.026
1.26 would be a bad thing.
What would cause the Alk to be low?
Thanx for all your input CT
I think you mean your specific gravity is 1.026? Not 1.26.....they would be dead!
Alk should be around 3.5 meq/l to 4.0 meq/l. Calcium around 420-440 or so.
Continue to build your alk SLOWLY. Let calcium drop on its own, but 470 isnt horrible at all.
Everything else looks great.
Yes, 1.026
1.26 would be a bad thing.
What would cause the Alk to be low?
Thanx for all your input CT
ctgretzky9
Member
Originally Posted by Reeferman1
Yes, 1.026
1.26 would be a bad thing.
What would cause the Alk to be low?
Thanx for all your input CT
Alk is one part of the alk-calc and to a smaller degree magnesium "buffer system" that keeps your pH steady.
Alk, in the simplest terms, is the measurement of this buffer capacity...the amount of acid that can be added before the pH drops toward the acidic values.
If you are not adding any alk to the tank, it diminishes over time, depending on bio load, amount of feeding etc....most salt mixes keep it within parameters, but it can drop quickly, especially with a more established tank with a lot of life in it.
Also, when you top off with fresh water, this "eats" away at the alk, because most top off fresh water is toward neutral or acidic.
So far, looks like youa re ok, your pH is in range. You may want to look into the b-ionic or similar product for maintaining alk levels. Some people use baking soda, I have no experience with that...i like the pre-mixed, eady to go b-ionic lol.
Yes, 1.026
1.26 would be a bad thing.
What would cause the Alk to be low?
Thanx for all your input CT
Alk is one part of the alk-calc and to a smaller degree magnesium "buffer system" that keeps your pH steady.
Alk, in the simplest terms, is the measurement of this buffer capacity...the amount of acid that can be added before the pH drops toward the acidic values.
If you are not adding any alk to the tank, it diminishes over time, depending on bio load, amount of feeding etc....most salt mixes keep it within parameters, but it can drop quickly, especially with a more established tank with a lot of life in it.
Also, when you top off with fresh water, this "eats" away at the alk, because most top off fresh water is toward neutral or acidic.
So far, looks like youa re ok, your pH is in range. You may want to look into the b-ionic or similar product for maintaining alk levels. Some people use baking soda, I have no experience with that...i like the pre-mixed, eady to go b-ionic lol.
reeferman1
Member
Yes, I have the b-ionic but have never used it. I'll see what the baking soda does for now.
I'll keep ya posted. Again, thanx for your input.
I'll keep ya posted. Again, thanx for your input.
chadman
Active Member
Originally Posted by NM reef
No...not directly. Iodine is a trace element that is very difficult to accurately test for...and I don't add any specific suppliment unless I can accurately test its levels. I prefer to maintain trace elements via regular bi-weekly water changes of about 10%...
i have been doing weekly ten percent water changes....by doing this all of my needed trace elements will be in sufficient amount?
No...not directly. Iodine is a trace element that is very difficult to accurately test for...and I don't add any specific suppliment unless I can accurately test its levels. I prefer to maintain trace elements via regular bi-weekly water changes of about 10%...
i have been doing weekly ten percent water changes....by doing this all of my needed trace elements will be in sufficient amount?
ctgretzky9
Member
Originally Posted by chadman
i have been doing weekly ten percent water changes....by doing this all of my needed trace elements will be in sufficient amount?
There is no way to answer this. In general, yes, it should be enough, but everyone's tank is completely differnt with bio-load, frequency and amount of feedings, how much top off water (evaportaion), filtering methods, type of lighting, open top or enclosed hood, circulation in the tank as well as surface agitation etc.....
The only way to know what you need to add (or subtract) is to test.
There is no other way to know.
If your tank looks good and healthy, chances are whatever you are doing is fine.
i have been doing weekly ten percent water changes....by doing this all of my needed trace elements will be in sufficient amount?
There is no way to answer this. In general, yes, it should be enough, but everyone's tank is completely differnt with bio-load, frequency and amount of feedings, how much top off water (evaportaion), filtering methods, type of lighting, open top or enclosed hood, circulation in the tank as well as surface agitation etc.....
The only way to know what you need to add (or subtract) is to test.
There is no other way to know.
If your tank looks good and healthy, chances are whatever you are doing is fine.
chadman
Active Member
Originally Posted by ctgretzky9
There is no way to answer this. In general, yes, it should be enough, but everyone's tank is completely differnt with bio-load, frequency and amount of feedings, how much top off water (evaportaion), filtering methods, type of lighting, open top or enclosed hood, circulation in the tank as well as surface agitation etc.....
The only way to know what you need to add (or subtract) is to test.
There is no other way to know.
If your tank looks good and healthy, chances are whatever you are doing is fine.
i have a 30g tank with six fish total about 10 hermits 4 snails a scallop and a couple feather dusters and a couple corals...so i would say my bio load is high!! i feed my fish once a day abot a pinch of flake food or half a cube of frozen, i also feed my tank zooplex or phyto feast everyday for my filter feeders....i ususally top off about a quarter of a gallon a day, i have a hop filter box which i run carbon in, i have 130w pc lighting with actinic,i use a glass top but the back is open for gas exchange, i have good surface agitation with one of my maxi jet 600's pointing directly at the surface also my hob breaks the surface....i have a 21 exchange rate....
i do not know if this is enought info to tell anything...i just do not know what all types of supplements i should be adding to my tank....should i do a greater than 10 percent change due to the fact that 10% is only 3 gallons
There is no way to answer this. In general, yes, it should be enough, but everyone's tank is completely differnt with bio-load, frequency and amount of feedings, how much top off water (evaportaion), filtering methods, type of lighting, open top or enclosed hood, circulation in the tank as well as surface agitation etc.....
The only way to know what you need to add (or subtract) is to test.
There is no other way to know.
If your tank looks good and healthy, chances are whatever you are doing is fine.
i have a 30g tank with six fish total about 10 hermits 4 snails a scallop and a couple feather dusters and a couple corals...so i would say my bio load is high!! i feed my fish once a day abot a pinch of flake food or half a cube of frozen, i also feed my tank zooplex or phyto feast everyday for my filter feeders....i ususally top off about a quarter of a gallon a day, i have a hop filter box which i run carbon in, i have 130w pc lighting with actinic,i use a glass top but the back is open for gas exchange, i have good surface agitation with one of my maxi jet 600's pointing directly at the surface also my hob breaks the surface....i have a 21 exchange rate....
i do not know if this is enought info to tell anything...i just do not know what all types of supplements i should be adding to my tank....should i do a greater than 10 percent change due to the fact that 10% is only 3 gallons