Is this QT set up correctly?

[spanko]

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/short
"

How do I disinfect a hospital tank?
When the hospital tank is no longer needed, it should be thoroughly disinfected before storing for the next use. Many times we don't know what caused the illness and can't be sure if any pathogens are still lurking on the hospital tank surface or any of the equipment used.
There are two common solutions used to disinfect tanks: common household bleach or potassium permanganate (PP).
Empty the tank and discard any mechanical or chemical filter media (pads, floss, carbon). The biological media can be disinfected and used again. Fill the tank and add a 10 parts water to 1 part bleach solution and let it run through the filter for about an hour. Drain and re-fill with fresh water, adding 10x the normal dose of de-chlorinator and run through the filter for another hour. The tank is now ready to be drained, dried and stored.
The same process can be used with PP. Add 10ppm of PP, enough to turn the water pink (2 teaspoons of Kordon’s Permoxyn for 10 gallons will result in a 10ppm solution). Do not treat the water with any dechlorinator for three days prior to dosing PP. If you have used a dechlorinator within that time frame, keep an eye on the color of the water after adding the PP. If the pink color fades, redose another 10ppm PP to keep the water pink for the duration of the disinfection treatment. PP will also stain fabrics, fingers, etc. so be careful. After running the filter 4-8 hours in 10ppm of PP, you can deactivate it by adding hydrogen peroxide or sodium thiosulfate. This will allow you to drain the tank without worrying about staining. Just a good rinse in water is all that’s needed to finish up."

 

[mr. limpid]

I would paint the bottom back side of the tank black, this so the fish doesn't get reflection off bottom and disorient them. also did not read that anyone suggested adding PVC or coffee cups for hiding places, if so sorry for repeat.

 

[geoj]

I like to keep a QT up and running. You are thinking about treating a pest I am thinking about seeing a pest. You need to keep corals in QT for a long time or you may miss the pest. Fish tend to be easier but sometimes you get a real healthy fish with Ich that does not show, maybe just a twitch, and three months go by and Ich it pops up. You don't have to sterilize the tank if there is not a pest. I QT in a complete system to allow me the ease of doing so for a very long time. I also am not to worried about fish as one goes in QT and it does not go to the DT if not clean. If it does have a pest I set my HT up. It is coral pests that can take a long time to notice. Some pest can be treated in the complete system and some can not. Some pests are parasites and you can remove the host and they will die off. I have a QT a place to hold fish and corals for long periods so they will show pests. I also have a HT and it has no sand and no live rock it is setup very much like the tank above so to teat pest that can't be treated in systems with rock and sand. If I wind up with a pest in my QT that can not be removed by taking out the host or treatment I clean and sterilize it. It is just that easy....
Also my QT is a proxy of the DT. It has a frag of every coral that is in the DT. If some pest comes in that does not affect the new addition but would kill some other there is a chance I will see that before it goes into the DT. In my case it would be very likely as I frag my new corals and grow them out, letting them heal before it is move to the DT.

 

[tirtza]

Quote:
which by the way there is one huge monster bristle worm in there now, almost 4 inches!!
Kiefers - take a picture, I really want to see this monster! I had no idea they even got that big. Bristle worms are bad? I had no idea...I thought bristle worms (to an extent) were good because they eat dead/left over food and other detritus. I know some are bad because they eat coral. I had one that tried to get rid of...after sever failed attempts I ended up taking the lazy way out and just threw out the piece of live rock he was living in. When I look back, I actually think he was probably one of the 'good' ones and I should never have thrown that rock away.
Quote:
I would paint the bottom back side of the tank black, this so the fish doesn't get reflection off bottom and disorient them.
That makes a lot of sense Mr. Limpid, thanks! I don't think I'll be able to paint it black since I live in a small inclosed apartment, but I could always tape some dark construction paper on the bottom and back of the tank. Should I do this to all sides, with the exception of the front?
Quote:
You need to keep corals in QT for a long time or you may miss the pest.
How long do you QT corals before you consider it safe to put them in your DT?
Quote:
Fish tend to be easier but sometimes you get a real healthy fish with Ich that does not show, maybe just a twitch, and three months go by and Ich it pops up....... I also am not to worried about fish as one goes in QT and it does not go to the DT if not clean.
How long do you keep fish in QT before you are sure they are 'clean' and ready for the DT? Besides white spots, what should I look for?

 

[mr. limpid]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tirtza http:///t/390583/is-this-qt-set-up-correctly/20#post_3460294
That makes a lot of sense Mr. Limpid, thanks! I don't think I'll be able to paint it black since I live in a small inclosed apartment, but I could always tape some dark construction paper on the bottom and back of the tank. Should I do this to all sides, with the exception of the front?
The sides are your choice, depends if there is a lot movement happening around your QT. You want them to feel safe not threaten. Dark construction paper would work too.
You asked GeoJ what else should I look for, I've been noticing fish coming threw with swollen bellies, this caused by worms much like dogs, Two does of Prazipro will rid fish of internal parasites.

 

[spanko]

Going to disagree here as I do not believe a QT or a HT should have any sand or rock, should only be bare bones minimum tank, water, filter and something for hiding that can be removed and sterilized. Sand and rock can hold many things that may be detrimental to livestock. But that is just me and it does not mean anything except that it is my opinion.

 

[geoj]

Going to disagree here as I do not believe a QT or a HT should have any sand or rock, should only be bare bones minimum tank, water, filter and something for hiding that can be removed and sterilized. Sand and rock can hold many things that may be detrimental to livestock. But that is just me and it does not mean anything except that it is my opinion.
That is ok I do what works for me and so should you...

 

[spanko]

Hee Hee, if you only knew!

 

[geoj]

 
 
Kiefers - take a picture, I really want to see this monster! I had no idea they even got that big. Bristle worms are bad? I had no idea...I thought bristle worms (to an extent) were good because they eat dead/left over food and other detritus. I know some are bad because they eat coral. I had one that tried to get rid of...after sever failed attempts I ended up taking the lazy way out and just threw out the piece of live rock he was living in. When I look back, I actually think he was probably one of the 'good' ones and I should never have thrown that rock away. 
 
 
 
That makes a lot of sense Mr. Limpid, thanks! I don't think I'll be able to paint it black since I live in a small inclosed apartment, but I could always tape some dark construction paper on the bottom and back of the tank. Should I do this to all sides, with the exception of the front? 
 
 
 
How long do you QT corals before you consider it safe to put them in your DT? 
 
 
 
How long do you keep fish in QT before you are sure they are 'clean' and ready for the DT? Besides white spots, what should I look for? 
 
 
I can't give you a time frame as each pest is different. Just like all of us I learn new things as I go along in this hobby. Here is a list of some things I look for Acropora Eating Flatworms (AEFW), Montipora Eating Nudibranchs, Zoanthid Eating Spiders, Red Flatworms, Rapid Tissue Necrosis (RTN), Red Bugs, Predatory Snails. I am sure others can add to the list. Most of these if you took their life cycle and doubled it is pretty safe for QT time. Other then that if it looks sick or damaged I keep looking to see why...

 

[geoj]

Hee Hee, if you only knew!
I have an idea :flame:

 

[kiefers]

In most cases, I dip my corals in lugos iodine. I add it to the bag when I get home from the shop. I allow it to sit for several minutes. Soetimes, my coral/fish guy will add it right there in the store. When I get home and temp acclimate, I can see a few pods, and one time there was a nudibrach, and some white worms. All dead. Then I rinse it off with some tank water and introduce it into the C.C.U. for 6 weeks.
One purpose of the QT/H.T. is to merely treat and observe. If you should see a problem, grab a camera, click the pic and post it. You can then find someone who knows what it is and knows how to kill the poor bastard! Lol
When I feed the CCU I will have the camera close by for the monster worm. It has not tried to kill off anything as of yet. Personally, I've learned that if you keep mama happy, I'll be happy. So every now and then I will feed a small chuck of shrimp or scallop into the tank and watch it ingulf it. Pretty cool to watch.

 

[florida joe]

FYI Prime on hand

 

[kiefers]

?????
pls..... educate me

 

[florida joe]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiefers http:///t/390583/is-this-qt-set-up-correctly/20#post_3460367
?????
pls..... educate me
are you talking to me,if so
When introducing a fish into a QT we can never be sure that our bio filtration will be able to handle the bio load. Not wanting to stress out the fish any more then it may be. IMO it is a good idea to have a product such as Prime on hand it removes chlorine and chloramine, and detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. And stimulates natural slime coat. I believe it also helps stabilize ph.

 

[kiefers]

Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///t/390583/is-this-qt-set-up-correctly/20#post_3460370
are you talking to me,if so
When introducing a fish into a QT we can never be sure that our bio filtration will be able to handle the bio load. Not wanting to stress out the fish any more then it may be. IMO it is a good idea to have a product such as Prime on hand it removes chlorine and chloramine, and detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. And stimulates natural slime coat. I believe it also helps stabilize ph.
Good time to bring this up!! Lol. My Qt has been set up for over a year now. Tirtzas, well , just set up so I believe Prime would be a good thing. I copper mine and according to the book of Joe, Prime and copper is not the wisest of ideas

 

[florida joe]

Not sure I understand, you run copper in your QT even with no parasites present also how do you continue bio filtration growth over the time frame of a year in your QT

 

[kiefers]

Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///t/390583/is-this-qt-set-up-correctly/20#post_3460390
Not sure I understand, you run copper in your QT even with no parasites present also how do you continue bio filtration growth over the time frame of a year in your QT
ya...... you know, I got nothin.
After I finished QT'ing my RG I did a huge water change. The filter media I use was thrown out and replaced with one that had been on my sump for that duration of QTing. Now, this is how I have always done it and has proven to work. Haven't lost one yet.
Now I have something else in QT and it's doing great. Soooooo, nuthins broke and it works.
So basically yes, run copper. I measure for it weekly and add accordingly, check pH once a day.

 

[tirtza]

Quote:
In most cases, I dip my corals in lugos iodine
How do you do this exactly? How much iodine & water? Do you still use the lugos iodine as well as a coral dip (like Coral Rx) and dip in Flatworm Exit? Should I use all 3 (or any combo) before it goes into the QT?
Quote:
FYI Prime on hand
Sounds like excellent advice, thanks! I pretty much always have some. I have a Betta and use it to condition it's water I just set up the QT several days ago, should I put some Prime in the tank at the same time as I introduce a fish to the QT?
How long should I keep a fish in the QT (considering that it appears happy and healthy)??

 

[kiefers]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tirtza http:///t/390583/is-this-qt-set-up-correctly/20#post_3460409
How do you do this exactly? How much iodine & water? Do you still use the lugos iodine as well as a coral dip (like Coral Rx) and dip in Flatworm Exit? Should I use all 3 (or any combo) before it goes into the QT? We put 3-4 drops in the bag the fish guy put the coral in when you buy them. Stir up a bit, gently, and go. When you get home take out the cooral and put it in you QT or DT. the water will get red. This is what we do with the zoa's ans some of the harder corals and acros
Sounds like excellent advice, thanks! I pretty much always have some. I have a Betta and use it to condition it's water I just set up the QT several days ago, should I put some Prime in the tank at the same time as I introduce a fish to the QT?
How long should I keep a fish in the QT (considering that it appears happy and healthy)?? Depends on the person and condition of your fish. Typically four to six weeks.

 

[tirtza]

On a side note.... my LFS never carries any magazines, and I really wanted a copy of "2012 Coral & Reef USA". I went to one of those huge nationwide chain pet supply places (I won't mention the name, but there's basically only 2 out there and this was one of them) . Sure enough they had a copy! While I was there I thought I'd check out the SW fish, knowing full well that they would probably be in pretty bad shape. It was far far worse than I expected! Even though I'm still a total rookie, and have very limited knowledge I could see why places like that have bad reputations for buying fish. Numerous fish had horrible cases of ich and several of them had eyes bulging out of their heads. Some had fins that were shredded, their coloring was really off, and they looked sooooo unhappy. They had fish mixed together that should never ever be together (much less in really small tanks). It reminded me of when I volunteered at a shelter and I would see of these horribly neglected creatures begging to get rescued. I couldn't be there for more than a few minutes, I had to get out of there!