I've seen the Light!!!
- Thread starter bmorecopper
- Start date
m0nk
Active Member
Originally Posted by bmorecopper
Thank you so much! After reading all of the responses I feel confident enough to put the towel back around my shoulder.
Since I have been absent for a few days let me answer a few questions that have been asked.
Acrylic51 I live just above York (5 minutes to the north).
NYC Bob I do have a small clean up crew. But the algae grows so fast the supply far out weighs the demand. At one point I had algae growing on the shells of the turbo snails.
Dragonzim & Reefraf I am going today and getting a test kit for Phosphates and Mag. I will post the results ASAP.
Wattsupdoc Thank you for your response in particular. The only question I have would be, How do I fit a fuge and the set up under my stand. I do not have much space under there. I could probably fit a 5 gallon tank or smaller under the stand. Would this be a safe size?
If there is anyone else I may not have mentioned, thank you!
As always any comments or suggestions are welcome.
Copper
There's a bunch of us in the general "Central PA" area, I've considered starting a reef club a couple times....
But I think that using the RO water from Wal Mart might be the source of your problem. Be sure when you test for phosphates that you test the water before mixing your salt, as well as after, but prior to adding it to your tank. Your tank water will likely show 0 phosphates because the algae is consuming it. I've been fighting it, as well as cyano, off and on over the past 6 months and I just got an RO/DI unit, so I'm hoping that it will slowly go away. I know the RO water I've been using has had phosphates, as well as other dissolved solids. If you can afford it, an RO/DI unit is the best investment you can make, imo. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much! After reading all of the responses I feel confident enough to put the towel back around my shoulder.
Since I have been absent for a few days let me answer a few questions that have been asked.
Acrylic51 I live just above York (5 minutes to the north).
NYC Bob I do have a small clean up crew. But the algae grows so fast the supply far out weighs the demand. At one point I had algae growing on the shells of the turbo snails.
Dragonzim & Reefraf I am going today and getting a test kit for Phosphates and Mag. I will post the results ASAP.
Wattsupdoc Thank you for your response in particular. The only question I have would be, How do I fit a fuge and the set up under my stand. I do not have much space under there. I could probably fit a 5 gallon tank or smaller under the stand. Would this be a safe size?
If there is anyone else I may not have mentioned, thank you!
As always any comments or suggestions are welcome.
Copper
There's a bunch of us in the general "Central PA" area, I've considered starting a reef club a couple times....
But I think that using the RO water from Wal Mart might be the source of your problem. Be sure when you test for phosphates that you test the water before mixing your salt, as well as after, but prior to adding it to your tank. Your tank water will likely show 0 phosphates because the algae is consuming it. I've been fighting it, as well as cyano, off and on over the past 6 months and I just got an RO/DI unit, so I'm hoping that it will slowly go away. I know the RO water I've been using has had phosphates, as well as other dissolved solids. If you can afford it, an RO/DI unit is the best investment you can make, imo. Hope that helps!
bmorecopper
Member
Originally Posted by m0nk
There's a bunch of us in the general "Central PA" area, I've considered starting a reef club a couple times....
But I think that using the RO water from Wal Mart might be the source of your problem. Be sure when you test for phosphates that you test the water before mixing your salt, as well as after, but prior to adding it to your tank. Your tank water will likely show 0 phosphates because the algae is consuming it. I've been fighting it, as well as cyano, off and on over the past 6 months and I just got an RO/DI unit, so I'm hoping that it will slowly go away. I know the RO water I've been using has had phosphates, as well as other dissolved solids. If you can afford it, an RO/DI unit is the best investment you can make, imo. Hope that helps!
Thanks Monk. If you start a club let me know. I am in! I'll PM you
There's a bunch of us in the general "Central PA" area, I've considered starting a reef club a couple times....
But I think that using the RO water from Wal Mart might be the source of your problem. Be sure when you test for phosphates that you test the water before mixing your salt, as well as after, but prior to adding it to your tank. Your tank water will likely show 0 phosphates because the algae is consuming it. I've been fighting it, as well as cyano, off and on over the past 6 months and I just got an RO/DI unit, so I'm hoping that it will slowly go away. I know the RO water I've been using has had phosphates, as well as other dissolved solids. If you can afford it, an RO/DI unit is the best investment you can make, imo. Hope that helps!
Thanks Monk. If you start a club let me know. I am in! I'll PM you
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Really, the 5 gallon isn't going to be quite sufficient, not that it wont work, it might. But your really going to have to be meticulous with your calculations, and placement. What about a custom fuge to fit under there? Do you know anything about acrylic, or anyone who does? What about converting a wet/dry? Or if you have the space, you could do like a show fuge. Mounted either above the 44, or beside but slightly lower than it. If you plant it heavily with some cool cleaners, they can be quite dramatic. The above tank fuges that rely on OF to feed the tank are probably the best (IMO) for pod production. Because the pods don't have to navigate around an impeller.
But they require an additional pump in the tank. a deterrent for most hobbyists. Really though you can have a fuge anywhere you want, it's just a matter of how you design it. Also backwash and head loss is greater at longer distances. You might look into a HOB fuge also. There are lots of options, you just need to decide whats right for you.
bmorecopper
Member
Ok, I went to the LFS and got a Phosphate test kit. They were out of Mag. kits.
I tested the saltwater fist and showed no trace of Phosphates. Then I tested my tap water and that also showed no trace of phosphates.
I may also add I have not have my light on since Monday. Other then the Mag. is there anything else I can test for that may be an indicator?
Copper
I tested the saltwater fist and showed no trace of Phosphates. Then I tested my tap water and that also showed no trace of phosphates.
I may also add I have not have my light on since Monday. Other then the Mag. is there anything else I can test for that may be an indicator?
Copper
n8ball2013
Member
what is your flow rate? Did the hair algea start from a dead spot in your tank?
reefraff
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
I havent ever heard of this. And frankly dont see how that could be of any significance. I had algea problems when my mag was reading 1700. So I dont bellieve it's the case. But weird things have been done to combat this ruthless enemy.
But at least test for it, adjust it if needed, and let us know.
If you have nitrates or phosphates HA will grow no matter what. This was documented with pictures showing the algae die off. In my case I only measured trace amounts of phosphates and no trates. Couldn't get rid the the stuff. I don't understand it either but it worked for me so.....
I havent ever heard of this. And frankly dont see how that could be of any significance. I had algea problems when my mag was reading 1700. So I dont bellieve it's the case. But weird things have been done to combat this ruthless enemy.
If you have nitrates or phosphates HA will grow no matter what. This was documented with pictures showing the algae die off. In my case I only measured trace amounts of phosphates and no trates. Couldn't get rid the the stuff. I don't understand it either but it worked for me so.....
bmorecopper
Member
Originally Posted by n8ball2013
what is your flow rate? Did the hair algea start from a dead spot in your tank?
Im not exactly sure what you mean by flow rate. If you mean specifically from the Aquaclear 300 I would imagine it is about 300 gallons per hour?!?!? I also have a Prizm Protein Skimmer but I am not sure how much water that turns over.
I have a pretty good flow around the tank. I am going to try and post pics tomorrow.
The Hair Algae did not start in a dead spot. It started growing on the LR in pretty much an even spurt. Even on the bottom. The only spots that it wasnt growing was what ever was not exposed to the light.
what is your flow rate? Did the hair algea start from a dead spot in your tank?
Im not exactly sure what you mean by flow rate. If you mean specifically from the Aquaclear 300 I would imagine it is about 300 gallons per hour?!?!? I also have a Prizm Protein Skimmer but I am not sure how much water that turns over.
I have a pretty good flow around the tank. I am going to try and post pics tomorrow.
The Hair Algae did not start in a dead spot. It started growing on the LR in pretty much an even spurt. Even on the bottom. The only spots that it wasnt growing was what ever was not exposed to the light.
hunter04106
Member
I had the same problem phosphates were to blame.Check the food ingredients check salt mix.get some phosphate sponge to strip the water of it.Always burn your new bulbs several hours before using it on your tank.New bulbs sometimes can cause alge growth.
hammerhed7
Active Member
have you tried running a resin like chemipure?
bmorecopper
Member
I want to say thank you to all who replied to help me with the hair algae problem I was having. This reply is about a month over due so please forgive me for my late response.
I tested the mag. level as directed and found it was well below acceptable levels. So I bought a mag supplement and slowly started raising the level to where it should be. After about a week there was an immediate stop in growth.
I then added a clean up crew which completely devoured any remaining hair algae. The best result I could see was on my tooth coral. I removed some of the hair algae that had grown in between the folds but could not get to some because of fear that I my tear the coral. After two weeks of the clean up crew being in the tank there was hardly any left. Also, the tooth coral has begun to grow again.
I then rearranged my rock work. OK, time for some visualization here. My tank is a 44 pentagon. I had the rock work stacked in an "L" shape in the middle of the tank with the water flowing over, behind, and around it. I do not know for sure if this was any part of the problem because I did not think I had any dead spaces. Anyway, I rearranged the rocks so they are stacked against the two back walls. I put a power head behind the rocks with the flow directed out of the top of the rock as to give adequate water movement. This was actually beneficial in other ways also. It gave the fish more places to hide and gave an appearance of the tank being deeper because of the reflections off of the glass.
I do not know if any one thing cured my problem but all were suggestions I would have never known if it wasn't for the help here.
I hope this thread helps others with a hair algae problem. I think between the test kits, additives, and clean up crew I spent no more then $75.
Best wishes,
Copper
I tested the mag. level as directed and found it was well below acceptable levels. So I bought a mag supplement and slowly started raising the level to where it should be. After about a week there was an immediate stop in growth.
I then added a clean up crew which completely devoured any remaining hair algae. The best result I could see was on my tooth coral. I removed some of the hair algae that had grown in between the folds but could not get to some because of fear that I my tear the coral. After two weeks of the clean up crew being in the tank there was hardly any left. Also, the tooth coral has begun to grow again.
I then rearranged my rock work. OK, time for some visualization here. My tank is a 44 pentagon. I had the rock work stacked in an "L" shape in the middle of the tank with the water flowing over, behind, and around it. I do not know for sure if this was any part of the problem because I did not think I had any dead spaces. Anyway, I rearranged the rocks so they are stacked against the two back walls. I put a power head behind the rocks with the flow directed out of the top of the rock as to give adequate water movement. This was actually beneficial in other ways also. It gave the fish more places to hide and gave an appearance of the tank being deeper because of the reflections off of the glass.
I do not know if any one thing cured my problem but all were suggestions I would have never known if it wasn't for the help here.
I hope this thread helps others with a hair algae problem. I think between the test kits, additives, and clean up crew I spent no more then $75.
Best wishes,
Copper