JoeZimm's 54g Corner Reef Build

[joezimm]

Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3068815
I have this same tank as well,Oceanic right. I could not find a canopy for mine because the stand is laminate so I built one. I have a 250w mh(sunpod)and 4x24 t-5s(nova) on mine. I was keeping a gbta under just the t-5s for about 2 months before I added the mh. I have to say the bta has exploded. I dont think I would try just the t-5s after seeing the difference.
BTW I still have the glass top. I would build a canopy so you can add fans and lift the mh up without letting the light out.
I was really liking the Sunpod myself, but where did you place the 4x24? Are they just sitting next to the Sunpod?
Also, can you put the blue and white LEDs on the Sunpod on a timer? Not that its a real big deal to leave them on all the time, but would prefer to be able to automate the lights along with everything else.
UPDATE:
Going to start my DIY rock this evening. I'll take some pics of my work and post tonight or tomorrow.

 

[joezimm]

Originally Posted by impulse-ive
http:///forum/post/3067633
I recently started my 55 gal corner tank. It's been going about 4 months. The sump you have seems OK...i'd up-grade to a better protein skimmer though. I painted my sides with blue acrylic paint is works well and clean of easily if you want to change or get rid of the tank later. Here is shot of what i have going now.
Good Luck!
Thanks, Impulse. I'm painting mine black plus I'm building a reef wall out of eggcrate, DIY rock, black pond foam, and aragonite. Not sure just yet how I'm going to handle curving the wall around the overflow. Maybe if I clip part of the eggcrate only part way through, I can bend it into a curve. We'll just see.

 

[bulldog123]

I was really liking the Sunpod myself, but where did you place the 4x24? Are they just sitting next to the Sunpod?
Also, can you put the blue and white LEDs on the Sunpod on a timer? Not that its a real big deal to leave them on all the time, but would prefer to be able to automate the lights along with everything
All the lights on the sunpod have seperate cords. So no problems setting what ever timers you want. Also I put the 4x24 in front of the mh because the front of the tank has more room and removes most of the shadows. And because the mh bulb uses less area which in a corner tank works well. I did cover the overflow with a piece of black plastic to keep light out of there. The leds only hit the back outside of the tank having them in the back which isnt the best but better than nothing.

 

[joezimm]

Good to know Bulldog. Thanks.
Update:
Well, I picked up all the stuff I needed for my DIY Rock experiment yesterday.
Things didn't go quite as planned. I mixed 1 part Portland, 3 parts Crushed Oyster (washed), 1 part Quickrete medium utility sand (whiter and cleaner than regular Play sand), and 1 part Rock Salt for porosity. However, I added too much water and it came out a little too runny, so I added a little more of everything to thicken it up some.
The mixture didn't hold up quite as I had hoped so I was not able to really form the shapes I was looking for. Got about 10 small sized rocks out of the mix I cooked up.
Not really a big deal considering the amount of material I have.

I'll find out today or tomorrow how they turned out. I'm guessing they turn to rubble, but who knows. They may be the best rocks ever!!!

 

[joezimm]

Update!!!
Ok, started another thread about the reef wall I built. So, you can check that out if you are interested.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/359970/joezimms-54g-corner-reef-build/20
I finally filled this weekend and started the cycle. Ammonia is currently at 0.25-0.50 ppm. I added some "live" sand I had left over in a bag in the garage along with some LR rubble and water from my current Biocube 14.
Here are some updated pics. The tank is not crooked. I just take crooked pics.
FTS showing the light. Current Sundial 150 MW w/ modified hanging rods. Didn't have many options with the light. The Sundial was the one light that had the separate lights I wanted along with a small footprint. Had to shorter the ends of the hanging bars by 5" for it to hang properly in the corner. Also had to re-drill the holes and adjust the hanging wires. The length of the 4 end cables varied between 6.5" - 8"

, so I took them all apart and trimmed down to an even 6". This lets it actually hang strait and allows me more room to get in and out of the top.

Closeup of ********. Getting the center portion to curve correctly for the overflow was a chore to say the least. Didn't use zip ties for the wall. I simply laid the two wall partions flat, placed the rock, and filled with foam. Then when it set a day later, stood them up and built the center portion (see link above for more pics of that). The foam sets firm enough that you can lift the entire wall (~65lbs of rock) by from basically any rock in the wall. Back of the tank is painted black.

Closeup of 10g sump. Painted back of sump black as well just cause I liked the look. May remove the outer two baffles from the wall on the right to provide more water for the pump. In order to insure no overflows, this setup has an extremely narrow window between too much water and sucking air

. Ignore the tape. I was making adjustments to measure the min-max water level.

Plumbing to sump. Split drain to run a small portion of water to the fuge. There is a ball valve on the end of the fuge portion (not shown) so I can regulate how much flow goes to that side. Not sure if I really like this setup. Will change fuge line to a 1/2" line instead of a 1" and maybe add a spray bar.

Octopus DNWB-110 Recirculating skimmer. Not connected yet as I just started the cycle. It needs to be raised a couple inches for the drain bar to reach over the sump wall. I ordered the in-sump version (NWB-110), but was sent this. Figured I could use the extra room in the sump and this would sit well in the corner of the stand plus it was a pretty nice upgrade from the non recirculating version.

That's it for now. Thanks for looking. Feedback or questions are welcome.