Just starting out with 30G tank ..
- Thread starter 191185
- Start date
gemmy
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank#post_3394012
OK I went to the LFS and my Salt water wasn't salty enough. . it was right in the middle of the "gauge" (forgot the name ) .. I thought it was supposed to be exactly in the middle of the "safe zone" so I purposly had it there ..You are using a hydrometer which are notorious for inaccurate readings. I recommend getting a refractometer. You can get one on this site for about $49.
According to LFS I want to be between 1.024 and 1.026 ? which is at the very top of the "safe zone" ...This is perfect for reef tanks. IMO, fish only tanks can be kept at 1.20.
Anyways, they REFUSED to sell me Live rock. . which is fine, I'm still learning .. I got 20lb of live sand for my 20G tank ..
He said I can come back tomorrow for the live rock , and he said I was ready for a few starter fish .. (dominoes) but from what I read on this forum, I am not ready ? I want to start with raw lobster first ? Anyways I'm in no hurry, so maybe I'll just start with the rock tomorrow ..The LFS is trying to get you to purchase damsels to help introduce ammonia to the tank for cycling (the ammonia will be a by product from the fish waste and food going into the tank). IMO, this is a cruel way to cycle a tank. It subjects the fish to live in an unsuitable environment just because they are hardy and can live through it. A piece of raw shrimp or other seafood or fish food is a good way to get the bacteria to start populating in your tank.
Thoughts on what my LFS is telling me ?? Opinions .. . . ... I'm here to learn I would just continue to post your questions here. I don't trust many LFS's for advice. Many are out there just to make quick buck and try to reel in customers to get them to buy any and every add on they have to offer.
Also, I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested ? Of course, we <3 pics.
Here is a great link about cycling: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/forum/thread/386044/let-s-talk-about-cycling
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank#post_3394012
OK I went to the LFS and my Salt water wasn't salty enough. . it was right in the middle of the "gauge" (forgot the name ) .. I thought it was supposed to be exactly in the middle of the "safe zone" so I purposly had it there ..You are using a hydrometer which are notorious for inaccurate readings. I recommend getting a refractometer. You can get one on this site for about $49.
According to LFS I want to be between 1.024 and 1.026 ? which is at the very top of the "safe zone" ...This is perfect for reef tanks. IMO, fish only tanks can be kept at 1.20.
Anyways, they REFUSED to sell me Live rock. . which is fine, I'm still learning .. I got 20lb of live sand for my 20G tank ..
He said I can come back tomorrow for the live rock , and he said I was ready for a few starter fish .. (dominoes) but from what I read on this forum, I am not ready ? I want to start with raw lobster first ? Anyways I'm in no hurry, so maybe I'll just start with the rock tomorrow ..The LFS is trying to get you to purchase damsels to help introduce ammonia to the tank for cycling (the ammonia will be a by product from the fish waste and food going into the tank). IMO, this is a cruel way to cycle a tank. It subjects the fish to live in an unsuitable environment just because they are hardy and can live through it. A piece of raw shrimp or other seafood or fish food is a good way to get the bacteria to start populating in your tank.
Thoughts on what my LFS is telling me ?? Opinions .. . . ... I'm here to learn I would just continue to post your questions here. I don't trust many LFS's for advice. Many are out there just to make quick buck and try to reel in customers to get them to buy any and every add on they have to offer.
Also, I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested ? Of course, we <3 pics.
Here is a great link about cycling: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/forum/thread/386044/let-s-talk-about-cycling
flower
Well-Known Member
LOL...Hi,
The gizmo is called an hydrometer. 1.024 to 1.025 is best if you don't have an auto top off unit, this is so you have some wiggle room without it getting too high. As the water evaporates the salt remains in the tank and the SG (saltiness) climbs. You do want to keep your water level always the same. You add RO (reverse Osmoses) water, not saltwater, to top off the water that evaporates.
Have your tank 1/2 full of saltwater then add your rock, then add the sand on top of that (ROCK FIRST) once the sand is settled add the rest of the saltwater to fill the tank. You are not ready for a fish. Certainly not a damsel, they grow up and bite you and kill other less aggressive fish. I don't know why but people use them to cycle tanks..don't do it and don't ever (unless you like mean fish) get an evil damsel fish. You want to add a chunk of raw shrimp in a mesh bag to kick start the cycle.
You need your own test kits. Get a master kit because it has the needed tests bundled and are a little cheaper. Your own hydrometer or refractometer to watch the saltiness...That is all you need to start.
The gizmo is called an hydrometer. 1.024 to 1.025 is best if you don't have an auto top off unit, this is so you have some wiggle room without it getting too high. As the water evaporates the salt remains in the tank and the SG (saltiness) climbs. You do want to keep your water level always the same. You add RO (reverse Osmoses) water, not saltwater, to top off the water that evaporates.
Have your tank 1/2 full of saltwater then add your rock, then add the sand on top of that (ROCK FIRST) once the sand is settled add the rest of the saltwater to fill the tank. You are not ready for a fish. Certainly not a damsel, they grow up and bite you and kill other less aggressive fish. I don't know why but people use them to cycle tanks..don't do it and don't ever (unless you like mean fish) get an evil damsel fish. You want to add a chunk of raw shrimp in a mesh bag to kick start the cycle.
You need your own test kits. Get a master kit because it has the needed tests bundled and are a little cheaper. Your own hydrometer or refractometer to watch the saltiness...That is all you need to start.
191185
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394017
LOL...Hi,
The gizmo is called an hydrometer. 1.024 to 1.025 is best if you don't have an auto top off unit, this is so you have some wiggle room without it getting too high. As the water evaporates the salt remains in the tank and the SG (saltiness) climbs. You do want to keep your water level always the same. You add RO (reverse Osmoses) water, not saltwater, to top off the water that evaporates. I was told by my LFS to use tap water from my sink . ? where do I get RO water ? I haven't heard of it before .. .
Have your tank 1/2 full of saltwater then add your rock, then add the sand on top of that (ROCK FIRST) once the sand is settled add the rest of the saltwater to fill the tank. You are not ready for a fish. Certainly not a damsel, they grow up and bite you and kill other less aggressive fish. I don't know why but people use them to cycle tanks..don't do it and don't ever (unless you like mean fish) get an evil damsel fish. You want to add a chunk of raw shrimp in a mesh bag to kick start the cycle. Is a "damsel" the type of fish that a "dominoe" fish is ? I'm assuming so that's why your telling me ..
You need your own test kits. Get a master kit because it has the needed tests bundled and are a little cheaper. Your own hydrometer or refractometer to watch the saltiness...That is all you need to start. Is there one on this site you would recomend ? or a brand name you would recomend ?
Thanks !
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394017
LOL...Hi,
The gizmo is called an hydrometer. 1.024 to 1.025 is best if you don't have an auto top off unit, this is so you have some wiggle room without it getting too high. As the water evaporates the salt remains in the tank and the SG (saltiness) climbs. You do want to keep your water level always the same. You add RO (reverse Osmoses) water, not saltwater, to top off the water that evaporates. I was told by my LFS to use tap water from my sink . ? where do I get RO water ? I haven't heard of it before .. .
Have your tank 1/2 full of saltwater then add your rock, then add the sand on top of that (ROCK FIRST) once the sand is settled add the rest of the saltwater to fill the tank. You are not ready for a fish. Certainly not a damsel, they grow up and bite you and kill other less aggressive fish. I don't know why but people use them to cycle tanks..don't do it and don't ever (unless you like mean fish) get an evil damsel fish. You want to add a chunk of raw shrimp in a mesh bag to kick start the cycle. Is a "damsel" the type of fish that a "dominoe" fish is ? I'm assuming so that's why your telling me ..
You need your own test kits. Get a master kit because it has the needed tests bundled and are a little cheaper. Your own hydrometer or refractometer to watch the saltiness...That is all you need to start. Is there one on this site you would recomend ? or a brand name you would recomend ?
Thanks !
191185
Member
Are all "Damsel" type fish just as "Hardy" as Dominoes ? I was thinking about a "Blue Reef Chromis" as my first fish ... I see it on this site for $19.99 .. it appears to be coral and reef safe, and is "peaceful" .. . as apposed to Bold with the Domino .. Is this a good first fish ? It looks like a fun one !
wartooth1
Member
Hi there... I also recently started a tank about a month ago. So far I think the most important thing I've learned is to do your own research before you buy something whether it is a piece of equipment or living creature for your tank. I say this because there is a conflicting opinion for almost litterally everything. There are 4 LFSs in my area, and they would all give me different answers to the advise I was looking for... and their answers might conflict with advise you find here. In my experience when you go to a store, if you wind up chatting with the manager/owner, they seem very geared towards making the sale... but if you happen to be talking to the kid who's there part time for the summer, his advise is more honest. For example, When I told one guy my tank is only a month old, one store manager said I could start adding some starfish if I wanted too lol... and that they just happend to be having a special on stars lol.
Regarding the Damsels, I've heard that the Dominoes are the most aggressive out of all the starter Damsels. When it was time to add my 1st live stock, I went with an Electric Blue Damsel and a Yellow Tail Damsel. Both fish seemed happy and were eating immediately after being acclimated. However, the Blue Damsel became such a bully! If the Yellow Tail so much as left the back corner of the tank the Blue would attack him. After about a week I took took the Blue out and replaced him with a Blue/Green Chromis. Ever since then the Yellow Tail has been happy and has gotten along great with his other tankmates. So, if you're going to go the Damsel route, I'd recommend a Blue/Green Chromis and a Yellow Tail Damsel.
Regarding the Damsels, I've heard that the Dominoes are the most aggressive out of all the starter Damsels. When it was time to add my 1st live stock, I went with an Electric Blue Damsel and a Yellow Tail Damsel. Both fish seemed happy and were eating immediately after being acclimated. However, the Blue Damsel became such a bully! If the Yellow Tail so much as left the back corner of the tank the Blue would attack him. After about a week I took took the Blue out and replaced him with a Blue/Green Chromis. Ever since then the Yellow Tail has been happy and has gotten along great with his other tankmates. So, if you're going to go the Damsel route, I'd recommend a Blue/Green Chromis and a Yellow Tail Damsel.
191185
Member
Thanks.. I ended up skipping the Dominoe, and got a green Chromis.. However, I still have the cheap-o lights that came with my kit from Walmart..
can I just buy better bulbs or do I need to replace the whole lighting fixture ? If I need a new light kit, what about this one : https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Marineland-Reef-Capable-LED-Light-18quot-24quot_p_5065.html
My tank is 24" across. .
Can anyone reconmend a good test kit ?
can I just buy better bulbs or do I need to replace the whole lighting fixture ? If I need a new light kit, what about this one : https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Marineland-Reef-Capable-LED-Light-18quot-24quot_p_5065.html
My tank is 24" across. .
Can anyone reconmend a good test kit ?
wartooth1
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394383
Thanks.. I ended up skipping the Dominoe, and got a green Chromis.. However, I still have the cheap-o lights that came with my kit from Walmart..
can I just buy better bulbs or do I need to replace the whole lighting fixture ? If I need a new light kit, what about this one : https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Marineland-Reef-Capable-LED-Light-18quot-24quot_p_5065.html
My tank is 24" across. .
Can anyone reconmend a good test kit ?
I was actually thinking of getting that light (but the next size larger) when the time comes when I want to start adding corals to the tank. However, from my understanding (after both doing some personal research on this light and asking opinions of others here) I've come to the conclusion that this light is actually pretty weak and can only support certain corals. Now if you decide that the specific corals you want in your tank can thrive under this light, then go for it... but personally I'm looking for a light that is good enough to support anything... that way the impulse shopper in me can see random stuff at the LFS and go "Neato! I want that!" instead of being restricted on what corals I can get based on the light I bought.
But if you're not planning on adding corals or any other photosynthetic life, I think you can keep using the light you have now.
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394383
Thanks.. I ended up skipping the Dominoe, and got a green Chromis.. However, I still have the cheap-o lights that came with my kit from Walmart..
can I just buy better bulbs or do I need to replace the whole lighting fixture ? If I need a new light kit, what about this one : https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Marineland-Reef-Capable-LED-Light-18quot-24quot_p_5065.html
My tank is 24" across. .
Can anyone reconmend a good test kit ?
I was actually thinking of getting that light (but the next size larger) when the time comes when I want to start adding corals to the tank. However, from my understanding (after both doing some personal research on this light and asking opinions of others here) I've come to the conclusion that this light is actually pretty weak and can only support certain corals. Now if you decide that the specific corals you want in your tank can thrive under this light, then go for it... but personally I'm looking for a light that is good enough to support anything... that way the impulse shopper in me can see random stuff at the LFS and go "Neato! I want that!" instead of being restricted on what corals I can get based on the light I bought.
But if you're not planning on adding corals or any other photosynthetic life, I think you can keep using the light you have now.
flower
Well-Known Member
Hi,
Wartooth1 ...strips are not any use in a saltwater tank...you can't even trust the PH reading on them. So PLEASE get some test kits.
191185,
Get the linkable T5HO lights. It can be linked up to three units. I have one unit on my 30g and I can keep any soft coral I want. with two I can keep any corals just about, and with three I can keep the light hungry anemones.
It's the cheapest way to get your lights and they are good lights besides. Also Seachem tests are awesome, very easy and reliable. I purchased the multi kits Special reef and the Basic Marine...$75.00 for the two kits. They have everything but the Calcium test in them. A Calcium test kit is $23.00...no it isn't cheap, but master kits are cheaper than single kits.
Here is a picture of my tank under 1 unit (36")...I'm impressed with them, well worth the $119.00
Wartooth1 ...strips are not any use in a saltwater tank...you can't even trust the PH reading on them. So PLEASE get some test kits.
191185,
Get the linkable T5HO lights. It can be linked up to three units. I have one unit on my 30g and I can keep any soft coral I want. with two I can keep any corals just about, and with three I can keep the light hungry anemones.
It's the cheapest way to get your lights and they are good lights besides. Also Seachem tests are awesome, very easy and reliable. I purchased the multi kits Special reef and the Basic Marine...$75.00 for the two kits. They have everything but the Calcium test in them. A Calcium test kit is $23.00...no it isn't cheap, but master kits are cheaper than single kits.
Here is a picture of my tank under 1 unit (36")...I'm impressed with them, well worth the $119.00
kiefers
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394658
Hi,
Wartooth1 ...strips are not any use in a saltwater tank...you can't even trust the PH reading on them. So PLEASE get some test kits.
191185,
Get the linkable T5HO lights. It can be linked up to three units. I have one unit on my 30g and I can keep any soft coral I want. with two I can keep any corals just about, and with three I can keep the light hungry anemones.
It's the cheapest way to get your lights and they are good lights besides. Also Seachem tests are awesome, very easy and reliable. I purchased the multi kits Special reef and the Basic Marine...$75.00 for the two kits. They have everything but the Calcium test in them. A Calcium test kit is $23.00...no it isn't cheap, but master kits are cheaper than single kits.
Here is a picture of my tank under 1 unit (36")...I'm impressed with them, well worth the $119.00
Hey Flower..... what is that gadget under your lights? Beautiful 30G!!!!! I don't believe I have ever seen your reefs. Good work
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394658
Hi,
Wartooth1 ...strips are not any use in a saltwater tank...you can't even trust the PH reading on them. So PLEASE get some test kits.
191185,
Get the linkable T5HO lights. It can be linked up to three units. I have one unit on my 30g and I can keep any soft coral I want. with two I can keep any corals just about, and with three I can keep the light hungry anemones.
It's the cheapest way to get your lights and they are good lights besides. Also Seachem tests are awesome, very easy and reliable. I purchased the multi kits Special reef and the Basic Marine...$75.00 for the two kits. They have everything but the Calcium test in them. A Calcium test kit is $23.00...no it isn't cheap, but master kits are cheaper than single kits.
Here is a picture of my tank under 1 unit (36")...I'm impressed with them, well worth the $119.00
Hey Flower..... what is that gadget under your lights? Beautiful 30G!!!!! I don't believe I have ever seen your reefs. Good work
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiefers http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394781
Hey Flower..... what is that gadget under your lights? Beautiful 30G!!!!! I don't believe I have ever seen your reefs. Good work
Thanks, I moved most of the coral from my 90g to this tank, my heater broke and I lost about $1500.00 in coral. That is what survived. I wan't to load it with SPS coral and was waiting for my nitrates to go to 0..it's almost there (0.1 as of yesterdays tests). I need to fix my MH lights, only one side is working, and I need to beef up the water flow. So that tank isn't ready for show and tell yet.
The gadget is a lifter pump for the CPR overflow. This tank has a 30g sump/refugium. I also have no power heads in this tank (I'm proud of my silly self) I have it rigged with spray bars for water movement. Its a seahorse tank with a rock background. I also have a Tunz nano skimmer which does an awesome job, and a canister filter with carbon and floss to polish the water and remove any chemical war problems the corals may invoke.
The red is various types of macroalgae, I wanted red algae in hopes the horses would change to those colors. So far they go from rusty to charcoal..LOL then they turn pale when playing "I love you pick ME!". I have one female horses and three males, so that goes on all day...poor girl..
Originally Posted by Kiefers http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3394781
Hey Flower..... what is that gadget under your lights? Beautiful 30G!!!!! I don't believe I have ever seen your reefs. Good work
Thanks, I moved most of the coral from my 90g to this tank, my heater broke and I lost about $1500.00 in coral. That is what survived. I wan't to load it with SPS coral and was waiting for my nitrates to go to 0..it's almost there (0.1 as of yesterdays tests). I need to fix my MH lights, only one side is working, and I need to beef up the water flow. So that tank isn't ready for show and tell yet.
The gadget is a lifter pump for the CPR overflow. This tank has a 30g sump/refugium. I also have no power heads in this tank (I'm proud of my silly self) I have it rigged with spray bars for water movement. Its a seahorse tank with a rock background. I also have a Tunz nano skimmer which does an awesome job, and a canister filter with carbon and floss to polish the water and remove any chemical war problems the corals may invoke.
The red is various types of macroalgae, I wanted red algae in hopes the horses would change to those colors. So far they go from rusty to charcoal..LOL then they turn pale when playing "I love you pick ME!". I have one female horses and three males, so that goes on all day...poor girl..
wartooth1
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3395025
So far I have a green chromis. A blue demsil. And a chocolate starfish!
Yay on the green chromis. Boo on the damsel... definately keep an eye on him... mine was super mean to the other creatures in my tank and I had to return him to the store after a couple of weeks. They are also lighning quick so taking him out involved raking out all the live rock so he had nowhere to hide, and even then it took me a while to finally net him!
I would suggest a yellow tail damsel to replace the blue one... they have the same blue colored bodies plus a yellow tail, so you would still have a very pretty blue fish to look at... and they usually the same price as the regular blue one.
I dunno about the starfish though... I thought starfish are really sensitive to tank fluctuations and should not go into tanks less than a few months old atleast. Maybe chocolate stars are the exception? I hope you'r not planning on keeping any corals down the road... chocolate stars are not reef safe (otherwise I' be all over them because they look so cool).
Oh btw 191185, I have a thread going where I'm chronicling the progression my tank. Since you and I are in similar stages of our tank's progression, you might find some of the advise that was given to me relevant... and you can learn from my mistakes too lol!
Here's the thread if you're interested:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/forum/thread/386045/my-40-gallon-tank-pic-thread#post_3392340
Originally Posted by 191185 http:///forum/thread/386394/just-starting-out-with-30g-tank/20#post_3395025
So far I have a green chromis. A blue demsil. And a chocolate starfish!
Yay on the green chromis. Boo on the damsel... definately keep an eye on him... mine was super mean to the other creatures in my tank and I had to return him to the store after a couple of weeks. They are also lighning quick so taking him out involved raking out all the live rock so he had nowhere to hide, and even then it took me a while to finally net him!
I would suggest a yellow tail damsel to replace the blue one... they have the same blue colored bodies plus a yellow tail, so you would still have a very pretty blue fish to look at... and they usually the same price as the regular blue one.
I dunno about the starfish though... I thought starfish are really sensitive to tank fluctuations and should not go into tanks less than a few months old atleast. Maybe chocolate stars are the exception? I hope you'r not planning on keeping any corals down the road... chocolate stars are not reef safe (otherwise I' be all over them because they look so cool).
Oh btw 191185, I have a thread going where I'm chronicling the progression my tank. Since you and I are in similar stages of our tank's progression, you might find some of the advise that was given to me relevant... and you can learn from my mistakes too lol!
Here's the thread if you're interested:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/forum/thread/386045/my-40-gallon-tank-pic-thread#post_3392340
mproctor4
Member
Your tank has had water in it for 4 or 5 days and you have 2 fish and a starfish? If this is the case you need to take ALL of your livestock back to the fish store and let your tank cycle! Have you read anything about what a cycle is? It is good that you got your own test kits. You need to learn what they test for and what that means. Your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate all need to peak and then go back to zero before you even think of adding anything alive to your tank--except for live sand or live rock. Take this time to learn and study the hobby and when the time is right you need to move slowly--that is the best piece of advice I can give you.
191185
Member
OK, Here's my 55 Gallon tank .. ***** was having a gallon a dollar sale. so the 55G was $55 .. the stand was $165 and is SUPER sturdy .. bought from petsmart
so far I have a Marineland 70G filter, a heater, and added some salt so far..
I also bought a powerhead, that is rated at 110 GPH ... How many gallons per hour do I need ? also, do I want to run it in powerhead mode or Laminar mode ?
I'm going to the grocery store today to get shrimp.. then just throw one piece in ?
<a href="http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/TroyMichael_2009/Snapbucket/?action=view&current=90F83D0D-orig.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/TroyMichael_2009/Snapbucket/90F83D0D-orig.jpg" border="0" alt="Snapbucket"></a>
so far I have a Marineland 70G filter, a heater, and added some salt so far..
I also bought a powerhead, that is rated at 110 GPH ... How many gallons per hour do I need ? also, do I want to run it in powerhead mode or Laminar mode ?
I'm going to the grocery store today to get shrimp.. then just throw one piece in ?
<a href="http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/TroyMichael_2009/Snapbucket/?action=view&current=90F83D0D-orig.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/TroyMichael_2009/Snapbucket/90F83D0D-orig.jpg" border="0" alt="Snapbucket"></a>