keeping the wires tidy
- Thread starter salt210
- Start date
spiderwoman
Active Member
Hubby is almost painfully particular when it comes to setups let it be an engine room in a car or a stand for a tank
Here is a good example how he does it
Here is a good example how he does it
spiderwoman
Active Member
He is using 3M heavy duty velcro for that. No drilling.
spiderwoman
Active Member
if the sticker in the back of the velcro doesn't attach to the wood he sands it slightly. The velcro he gets from work... where they get it from, that I don't know. Have you checked hobby stores and Lowe's/HD?
corallover23
Member
Originally Posted by SpiderWoman
http:///forum/post/2715612
Hubby is almost painfully particular when it comes to setups let it be an engine room in a car or a stand for a tank
Here is a good example how he does it
wow very tidey
http:///forum/post/2715612
Hubby is almost painfully particular when it comes to setups let it be an engine room in a car or a stand for a tank
Here is a good example how he does it
wow very tidey
wattsupdoc
Active Member
I meant to do a thread on this myself, but haven't had the time. I use Velcro straps and nail on wire racks. You can get these from any Lowes etc in the electrical department. The good thing about these are as you need to remove a component for cleaning, maintenance or replacement, or can put it right back easily . here's some pics, dont forget drip loops wherever needed. I know it doesn't look that tidy, but you shoulda seen it before.
Evidently I lost my before and after pics so I just now took these. It was a noodle farm.
sbaumann14
Member
damn doc.... you keep your ballasts in THERE? you are a brave, brave man
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Those are icecap electronic ballasts. There are completely sealed inside the aluminium casing in rubber. I personally believe they are probably submersible.
salt210
Active Member
Originally Posted by SpiderWoman
http:///forum/post/2715673
if the sticker in the back of the velcro doesn't attach to the wood he sands it slightly. The velcro he gets from work... where they get it from, that I don't know. Have you checked hobby stores and Lowe's/HD?
my father in law has some 3M velcro tape that he gave to try so Ill see how that goes. but I just have to say again how meticulous your husband is.
Doc that looks good as well. how do you like those analog timers? My LFS has some digital ones that I bought from them. they have an option of coming on or going off 2-30mins before or after the time the are set for.
What about the GCFI's? I dont really know what they look like but Know that I need to get at least one of them
http:///forum/post/2715673
if the sticker in the back of the velcro doesn't attach to the wood he sands it slightly. The velcro he gets from work... where they get it from, that I don't know. Have you checked hobby stores and Lowe's/HD?
my father in law has some 3M velcro tape that he gave to try so Ill see how that goes. but I just have to say again how meticulous your husband is.
Doc that looks good as well. how do you like those analog timers? My LFS has some digital ones that I bought from them. they have an option of coming on or going off 2-30mins before or after the time the are set for.
What about the GCFI's? I dont really know what they look like but Know that I need to get at least one of them
wattsupdoc
Active Member
I dont understand exactly what the point is of being able to have them come on 2-30 min before the time you set for them to come on is? ???? Is there something I'm not seeing? Why would you need this function???
IMO the analogs are fine if you just need a simple on/off function. I have a wallyword digital that I use for my kalk dosing. It lets me time up to 8 times a day. With 1 min intervals.
IMO the analogs are fine if you just need a simple on/off function. I have a wallyword digital that I use for my kalk dosing. It lets me time up to 8 times a day. With 1 min intervals.
spiderwoman
Active Member
The analog ones are far more reliable than electronic ones. We had the analog ones in our 55 before we got controllers. I would not waste my money on the electronic ones.
salt210
Active Member
doc
I dont think there is a benefit there just something that they have
spiderwoman
Ive had them about 3 weeks now. they were the replacements for 3 of the corallife strip timers that kept going out on me. Price wise I would probably buy the analog ones from now on. the digitals ones are around 20 from the LFS. could you find out what grit paper he uses to sand it? I do paint work on cars but never on wood.
I dont think there is a benefit there just something that they have
spiderwoman
Ive had them about 3 weeks now. they were the replacements for 3 of the corallife strip timers that kept going out on me. Price wise I would probably buy the analog ones from now on. the digitals ones are around 20 from the LFS. could you find out what grit paper he uses to sand it? I do paint work on cars but never on wood.
spiderwoman
Active Member
Originally Posted by salt210
http:///forum/post/2717080
spiderwoman
Ive had them about 3 weeks now. they were the replacements for 3 of the corallife strip timers that kept going out on me. Price wise I would probably buy the analog ones from now on. the digitals ones are around 20 from the LFS. could you find out what grit paper he uses to sand it? I do paint work on cars but never on wood.
I'll check with him tomorrow when he gets home from the Watkins Glen race.
http:///forum/post/2717080
spiderwoman
Ive had them about 3 weeks now. they were the replacements for 3 of the corallife strip timers that kept going out on me. Price wise I would probably buy the analog ones from now on. the digitals ones are around 20 from the LFS. could you find out what grit paper he uses to sand it? I do paint work on cars but never on wood.
I'll check with him tomorrow when he gets home from the Watkins Glen race.
salt210
Active Member
doc
what did you use for your labels? the label maker we have doesnt do a god job on them.
I tried the 3M tape today and it does stick just not very sturdy, so Im going to see if I can find some that is stronger and prob another type of surge protector the second one that I have I dont like.
also something that is a problem is the length of some of the cords, especially for the PH's
what did you use for your labels? the label maker we have doesnt do a god job on them.
I tried the 3M tape today and it does stick just not very sturdy, so Im going to see if I can find some that is stronger and prob another type of surge protector the second one that I have I dont like.
also something that is a problem is the length of some of the cords, especially for the PH's
kspops
Member
Hello salty, Just to give you an idea, a GFCI is a type pf circuit. I have a GFCI outlet on my stand and it feeds or protects the other outlets after it. I think it may cover the entire circuit back to the panel, but cannot say for sure. I will try to get a picture for you later. There is the option of getting cords that have built in GFCI's, but they are more than a normal cord. Just depends on the area it will be in. for the safety of it, I would look into getting at least the short cord to protect yourself, and the fish.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Thomas & Betts EZL-75 labeler. Lowes has real similar labelers there, like the Rhino I think it is. This one has many cabling features like flagging, wrapping or standard ....Anyways, use a gfi on your tank, but use more than one. That way life support can be split between them. The cord and plug connected kind are a good choice, if/when it goes bad, you can replace it real easy. The gfi only protects things that are plugged into it, or are hardwired directly to the load side of it. Not backwards back to the panel.