KICK ICH... treatment has began

unleashed

Active Member

Originally posted by civicracer
so does that mean the fish may still have ick, but it's not visible at the moment??

if your fish are showing no signs of the ich itself they most likely dont have it.the ich parasite attaches itself to a fish when its imune system has been set off balance.such as stress, poor nutrition ,water temp changes and such every slight change in your fishes enviroment can bring on a case of ich.the only way you are going to be able to stop it completely is keeping an adaquite amout of copper in your tanks as like some LFS's do for some of the show tanks.but for alot of the species of fish and most if not all of the corals and inverts this cannot be used safely as a preventative.therfore we get to play guess what i have this week :confused: keeping it out of our tanks completely is almost impossable .treating our fish isnt easy either but at least its not impossable. all we can do is try our best to keep it off of our fish. do your best to keep everything at a constant that is our only true hope.
 

unleashed

Active Member

Originally posted by Blitz99
not true.. i have a few awesome articles you should read about it...
and as for garlic, it says that possibly the reason it works is the odor in the fish's skin is garlic-ish, making the ich not want to attach...
i've worked at health food places... you can smell the people who use garlic....
check out the articles here:
http://www.marineaquariumadvice.com/library.html

fish dont sweat. people do.it has nothing to do with the smell of garlic it has to do with the high concintrates of vit C in the garlic keeping the fishes imune system up.fedding your fish garlic extracts or suppliments containing them will help also adding vit suppliments to the food at each feeding will help maintain proper nutritional balence keeping the slime coat they produce naturally making the ich not stick.
 
A

andretti

Guest
GARLIC, GARLIC, GARLIC and more GARLIC. Yes, the person that said garlic dosen't cure ick, it prevents it by raising the fish's immune system is totally right! Anyway, the best medicine out there is called "Rally," it's totally reef and invert safe. My neighbor whom happens to be a marine biologist for Sea World and Scripp's Aquarium says this is the stuff they use - work. This guy holds a Phd in every subject known to man! Rally is available at most lfs. I have used it on my 55 and cured my yellow tang of ick and popeye in about 5 days. You just make sure to take out any carbon, and do a 15-20% water change after your little friend is cured. After you do your H20 change, put your carbon back in, and then change it again (carbon) in about a week; the carbon will absorb any remaining medication so it will clog up fast.
:happyfish :happyfish :happyfish
 

wrassecal

Active Member
For those reading this -there is a lot of what I would call bad information on this thread. I find it odd that no one has referred this to the disease forum so I borrowed the info from Beth's sticky thread. Ich is NOT always present in our tanks, quarantine of a new fish for 3 weeks is recommeded because that goes beyond the life cycle of ich. If ich does not have a host in it's theront stage it will die out of the tank. That is the goal, to rid your tank of ich and not re-introduce it through adding of unquarantined fish. Not trying to sound snotty here -just speaking from the experience of wiping out an entire fully stocked 135 gallon tank due to ich. Tried the garlic, kick ich, oher stuff and hypo (too late)
(Beth's sticky in disease - for more info go to the forum)
Ich is a ciliated protozoan called Cryptocaryon irritans. Common names for this parasite in the hobby are: Ick, Ich, white spot disease.
There are only 2 viable choices for treatment for ich. Copper and hyposalinity. Hyposalinity is safe and beneficial in more respects than just getting rid of the parasite, so there really is no reason not to use this as a treatment choice for this parasite. So-called Reef Safe medications are risky business. They are never very effective and could effect your reef ecosystem and inverts.
The “Bug”. What is it? How does it Work?
Ich has a multiple stage life cycle of approx. 2 wks at tropical aquarium temperatures [77-80 degrees] during which time the parasite undergoes 4 phases:
1. The trophont stage is seen as the mature parasite attached to the fish, feeding off fish tissue. This has the appearance of salt-like grains often described by hobbyists as white spots or white dots, thus the common name of the disease, “White-Spot Disease”. What the hobbyist is actually seeing with these white dots is a protective covering, or cyst, which the parasite creates over itself as a means of protection. Parasite defense mechanism! As the parasite feeds it will grow in size. It is this growth or varying sizes of the trophont that may confuse the hobbyist to think that the infected fish is suffering from some other malady [such as lymphocysts]. The visible distinction between Ich, and some other problem is usually numbers. Left untreated, ich will multiply on the fish and usually cover the body—fins and body alike. [cycle timeframe: aprrox. 7 day stage]
2. The tomont stage occurs when the trophont matures after having fed on your fish for around a week. At this point, the parasite, engorged and well-fed on your fish, detaches its protective cystic covering, leaves the host fish and swims in the water column for several hours until it can find a place in the aquarium to settle. It will then attach itself to a surface in the aquarium: Sand, live rock and, perhaps even the surface of rocks where coral is attahced, or even the aquarium glass, filters, whatever. Once settled the cells within the cyst begin dividing to form more parasites [up to several hundred]. [cycle timeframe: several hours]
3. The tomite stage, are the products of the parasite reproducing. They become free-swimming in the aquarium as theronts. [cycle timeframe, approx 4 days at 77-80 degrees water temp].
4. The theront stage of ich are free-swimming protozoans that must locate a host fish within several hours, or die trying. This is the stage when fish become vulnerable to infection. The infection is transmitted through the water column.
 

gold strip

Member
All the naturalists will tell you Kick Ich doesnt work but if you use it correctly it will. I had a bad Ich problem and was able to beat it and have not seen any more signs in over 9 months.
Make sure water quality stays very good, dose Kick Ich as directed and plan on 2 rounds (4 to 6 weeks), feed a good diet of a medicated or enriched food and dont add anything else to the tank that would stress the fish out.
The kick Ich only kills the paracite in transit so thats why you will need a good 4 to 6 weeks of treatment. Life cycle is 3 to 4 weeks. And you boost the diet of your fish with a medicated/enriched food to help the fish fight it off themselves. Between the two you should be successful. Just be patient with it.
 
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