Large water change

[u mike]

I am looking to make a very large water change. what I want to do is make a 50 gal change. ( tank is 65 gal) now that I have my own water. The purpose is to knock down the high phosphate #, slow down the hair alage. Right now I have 55 gal of new water in my holding tank.
the first question is how early can I move 35 gal into my trash can to mix with salt. then I have to get a 2nd can so I can mix 35 more . that way I can use some to wash off the live rock after I scrub it.
also need time to make more water.
the section question is how do I get both cans close to temp with only one heater.( really dont want to buy another ) just for this cleaning.
looking to do this project on the TUES after easter .

 

[meowzer]

That's a pretty big w/c.....I would probably fo 50%, and then 2-3 days later another 50%
If you are gonna take rock out to clean it, use tank water in a bucket, and then another bucket of tank water to rinse before you put it back in

 

[u mike]

I am giving this a try after speaking with the lfs guy , he fells that this will knock down the phos #, He told me that he has done this a number of times with his own tanks. they have been pushing me to get my own unit for water. he also said i will see a large change in my corals after this change.

 

[meowzer]

I agree with you having your own water....just don't know about that large of a water change....

Did you throw away the first few gallons of water you made??

 

[u mike]

yes about 15 gal

 

[aquaknight]

Posting some info about your tank, fish/corals/inverts will help. If you have something like a SPS setup or a Sea-Apple species tank, advice is going to be much different then a hardy FOWLR.
I have done the "shock treatment" to my tanks in the past. Shock treatment by definition -- take out the all LR scrub it clean, and do a large, over 50% WC. I am 1-1 dealing with hair algae. It worked on my 29gal, didn't work on my 125.
Not sure I understand the first question exactly. You can move all 35gals into a trash can right after it's made, mine goes directly into the Brute, where it's later mixed

. If you mean after you've mixed the salt, how long till you can use it, some say 24hrs. minimum, I usually do just a few hours, though I use a Mag 18 for heavy aeration/mixing.
For scrubbing the live rock, yea, I just use old tank water. A bucket to scrub/shake it, one to rinse. To get the cans up to temp, set the first one a few degrees above your target, then switch to the second one. It's better to be a little cooler, then a little warmer.
The thing about water changes, is the "gallons" don't always add up. You may take out what your think is 50gals from the tank, but chances are you will be over/under a bit. Obviously it's easier to be a bit conservative your first few times so you're not left high and dry (pardon the pun), waiting on the RO/DI to make water as fast as it can.

 

[beaslbob]

As I discussed in this thread:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s...hange-analysis
water changes will limit but not prevent parameters build ups including phosphates.
IMHO the best thing to do is get the tank balanced out with plant life (macros, corraling algae, ugly algeas in the turf scrubber, etc etc etc) to that phosphates are being fully consumed on an on going basis. That way they are 0 regardless of the water changes being conducted. As are nitrates plus the tank will become a net consume of carbon dioxide and producer of oxygen each 24 hour period.
my .02

 

[u mike]

Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/3252893
Posting some info about your tank, fish/corals/inverts will help. If you have something like a SPS setup or a Sea-Apple species tank, advice is going to be much different then a hardy FOWLR.
I have done the "shock treatment" to my tanks in the past. Shock treatment by definition -- take out the all LR scrub it clean, and do a large, over 50% WC. I am 1-1 dealing with hair algae. It worked on my 29gal, didn't work on my 125.
Not sure I understand the first question exactly. You can move all 35gals into a trash can right after it's made, mine goes directly into the Brute, where it's later mixed

. If you mean after you've mixed the salt, how long till you can use it, some say 24hrs. minimum, I usually do just a few hours, though I use a Mag 18 for heavy aeration/mixing.
For scrubbing the live rock, yea, I just use old tank water. A bucket to scrub/shake it, one to rinse. To get the cans up to temp, set the first one a few degrees above your target, then switch to the second one. It's better to be a little cooler, then a little warmer.
The thing about water changes, is the "gallons" don't always add up. You may take out what your think is 50gals from the tank, but chances are you will be over/under a bit. Obviously it's easier to be a bit conservative your first few times so you're not left high and dry (pardon the pun), waiting on the RO/DI to make water as fast as it can.
about the water in second question, I have a 55 gal container that holds all my ro water. I will fill a 35 gal can, so that the 55 can refill then I want to take a second can fill it up so that the 55 can refill. This way I have extra water laying around.
I don't have a lot in my tank right now that is why i want to get this under control.
yellow starpolop . mushroom , leather toadstool, 6 fish .

 

[spanko]

The saltwater axiom is "The solution to pollution is dilution". So yes you are on the correct path to reduce or eliminate the phosphates in your tank. Is this a long term fix? Not in my opinion. Will your "fix be permanent? Nothing ever is we can only do what we can here.
Did you get your own equipment like the fish store suggested? If so is it a RODI filtering unit? If so yes your water quality will no be up to the "standards" needed to continue with the hobby keeping in mind there is maintenance to be performed on the unit.
Long term will this keep phosphates out of the system. Not in my opinion. There are other avenues in which they are introduced one of which is food. But again the solution is dilution, this relates to a good water change schedule going forward, a good filtering system whether mechanical - chemical- or as Bob suggests via the use of macro algae.
Oh yeah with your current list of inhabitants I would not be very worried with a water change of the proportion you are asking about. The thing is ensure the Ph, salinity and temperature are as closely matched to current tank conditions as possible.

 

[u mike]

On Monday I did my large water change 50 gal. Today I tested water calicum was low, nitrate was fine,alk was little high, ph was fine. tomorrow will take water to lfs lt them test for phosphate. all inhabitants seem to be doing fine, still waiting for lights to come on.will also post some pics later tonight right now there is a refelction from the daylight.