Lawnmower Blenny

lietz06

Member
We just got one last night and I have a question about them. I read they should be in a well established tank. What qualifies your tank as well established? I've had it set up since early July. What do you guys feed them? I have some frozen veggies or do you feed them just algae sheets? Or are they okay for a lil bit to just eat the algae in the tank? Any other info on them would be great. Thanks:)
 

spiderwoman

Active Member
Sorry, early July does not quality a tank wot be well established... not by far. When your tank has been running for a year, that would be what I'd call an established tank. Also the amount of LR and the size of the tank make a huge difference in if you can support the needs of a lawnmower blenny.
What size is your tank and how much LR?
Do you have a refugium to keep the pod population growing?
 

lietz06

Member
I didn't figure...but I didn't know. We have a 55 gallon with bout 80 lbs of live rock. No refugium.
 

spiderwoman

Active Member
If you want to keep him, I'd probably invest on a hangon refugium. At least you have a good amount of LR in your tank.
How is the pod population, do you see a lot of them?
Here is a bit more about his diet.
It will eat frozen food sometimes, but not often enough to survive off of. You need to make sure that there is enough food in the tank in the form of common brown algae for it to graze on through out the day. Furthermore, some Lawnmower Blennies flat-out refuse to eat in captivity leading to the slow process of an aquarist watching a fish starve to death.
To avoid this scenario, it is Highly Recommended that the aquarist observe the fish eating at the fish store before purchasing it. You can almost always see mouth marks on the brown algae in the LFS holding tanks. This is a good sign that its a good specimin. If its stomach is pinched flat, there is a high chance it is refusing to eat, and is therefore not recommended.
Many of this species will learn to love the brown algae that grows on the glass. It is best to leave the back wall un scraped, giving them a backup food source, if they completely clean all other rock surfaces.
 

lietz06

Member
I don't really know what a pod looks like. Can you explain or tell me where I can get a pic of them?
 

nitschke65

Member
My lawnmower is happy and healthy in a tank I set up in early September! He's an omnivore and eats live brine shrimp, live or frozen bloodworms, and System Two flakes. He also finds time to nip at a little algae.
 

nycbob

Active Member
as long as ur tank has algae, it will do fine. if u start seeing its stomach sucked in, then feed it algae sheet.
 

gmann1139

Active Member
Ok, I'm trying to grow my knowledge here, because a LMB is coming up soon on the stocklist for my tank.
I thought they were called 'lawnmowers' because they love the grass-like algae that tends to grow on LR.
I know about the 'kiss marks', but I assumed they feasted more on the 'grass' than the 'glass.'
I was waiting until some of the 'grass' grew until I added a LMB, because I've had bad luck in the past on trying to get fish to eat off of sheets. Am I correct that is the definition of 'mature tank' that I'd be looking for?
 
R

rcreations

Guest
My lawnmower blenny eats everything, he even fights with the trigger for raw shrimp.
 

al mc

Active Member
Originally Posted by RCreations
http:///forum/post/2823020
My lawnmower blenny eats everything, he even fights with the trigger for raw shrimp.
I also find that the LMBs in my two reef systems eat just about anything. Both go 'rabid' when I add Spectrum pellets...go figure.
 

jimmy40741

Member
I bought a LMB about 5 or 6 months ago and he completely cleaned out a hair algea problem I had. He continues to pick at my LR and the glass, but he also eats anything else that hits my tank (flake, frozen mysis shrimp, frozen brine shrimp, dried bloodworms, frozen bloodworms, etc). It's kind of funny to watch him when I feed because he positions himself in the path of one of my powerheads becasue he knows that the food will get blown right at him making it easier for him to catch. As far as the algea sheets go, I tried feeding him some algea/seaweed sheets that I feed my tangs once he wiped out the hair algea, but I never saw him touch them.
 

spanko

Active Member
Here is a little on a well established system.
Eric Borneman is the author of Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History, and is co-author for the book, A Practical Guide to Corals. He has authored and published many papers on marine subjects in various scientific and trade publications and journals internationally. He is the host of The Coral Forum at Reef Central, is a contributor to many websites internationally, has spoken at scientific and aquarium related conferences, events, and societies, and has taught classes on coral biology, coral propagation, and other reef issues. He co-founded the Marine and Reef Aquarium Society of Houston and is currently involved with coral disease and aquarium trade sustainability issues worldwide.
Eric has been maintaining reef aquaria for twelve years, and has been diving and photographing coral reefs of the world for 25 years. His current aquaria include a linked multi-habitat system of over 500 gallons that includes a sea grass habitat, an inter-tidal habitat and a large coral reef that run without any filtration devices.
Hi Eric, I was hoping you could help me to understand better what it means for a system to "mature" or "become established". Hobbyists (me included) are always saying not to keep that sps or this anemone for a least a year until your system has matured.
What exactly are the differences between a tank which finished cycling a month ago and one that finished cycling 11 months ago.
Does it have to do with water parameters being more stable?
Does it have to do with natural food availability?
Does "tank maturity" pertain more to those who utilize a DSB, because it takes 6 months for a DSB to become functional?
EricHugo
Eric Borneman
Registered: Jan 2000
Location: Houston TX USA
Occupation:
Posts: 7276
Before delving on this one, a couple of comments:
COMMENT
>>I know Eric to be a promoter of letting the tank's "natural" flora and fauna proliferate for many months, and I agree that this is a very natural and safe approach. However, I think someone who has "been there" can modify these guidelines according to their experience. No, you can't rush quality - I agree that rushing things is not preferable. If I had the space and time, I would have waited longer than a month to put any animals in my tank. I guess what I'm saying is that experience can allow one to get away with some things. Then again, sometimes not. <<
ANSWER
I agree one can go much faster depending on what one begins with in the first place, and depending on how many times you've done it before. That said, with the average start up, there are certain things, as mentioned, that cannot be hurried, and hurrying seems to make them worse rather than better. The experience plays a part when you are able to nip some of those things in the bud because you have dealt with them before even in a mature tank.
COMMENT
>>I'm going on my 4th month of cycling with no live stock other then some turbo's and blue hermits. I have been feeding on the heavy side and will start to feed live plankton for the next 4 months. Then I will start to add corals. The fish will be added very last. The one thing that I have noticed is that the diversity of life is much great during the cycling process so far.<<
ANSWER
Yeah, that is the amazing part...a shame most will never witness that.
COMMENT
>>Hi Eric, I was hoping you could help me to understand better what it means for a system to "mature" or "become established". Hobbyists (me included) are always saying not to keep that sps or this anemone for a least a year until your system has matured.
What exactly are the differences between a tank which finished cycling a month ago and one that finished cycling 11 months ago.<<
more below
>>Does it have to do with water parameters being more stable?<< yes, nut ot necessarily
>>Does it have to do with natural food availability?<< Not sure but I don't think so.
>>Does "tank maturity" pertain more to those who utilize a DSB, because it takes 6 months for a DSB to become functional ?<<
ANSWER
no. Tank maturity seems to be even more of an issue without the sand bed.. The sand bed just takes some time to get enough nutrients in it to sustain populations and stratify into somewhat stable communities...seems like a longer period of time makes things go in the other direction.
ERIC BORNEMAN EXPLANATION ON TANK MATURITY
So, here's the tank reason, and then I'll blow into some ecology for you.
 

spanko

Active Member
When you get a tank, you start with no populations of anything. You get live rock to form the basis of the biodiversity - and remember that virtually everything is moderated by bacteria and photosynthesis in our tanks. So live rock is the substrate for all this stuff, and also has a lot of life on it. How much depends on a lot of things. Mostly, marine animals and plants don’t like to be out of water for a day at a time...much less the many days to sometimes a week that often happens. So, assuming you are not using existing rock form a tank, or the well-treated aquaculture stuff, you have live rock that has either relatively free of anything alive, or you have live rock with a few stragglers and a whole lot of stuff dying or about to die because it won’t survive in the tank. From the moment you start, you are in the negative. Corallines will be dying, sponges, dead worms and crustaceans and echinoids and bivalves, many of which are in the rock and you won't ever see. Not to mention the algae, cyanobacteria, and bacteria...most of which is dead and will decompose, or which will die and decompose. This is where the existing bacteria get kick started...
Bacteria grow really fast, and so they are able to grow to levels that are capable of uptaking nitrogen within...well, the cycling time of a few weeks to a month or so. However, if you realize the doubling time of these bugs, you would know that in a month, you should have a tank packed full of bacteria and no room for water. That means something is killing or eating bacteria. Also realize that if you have a tank with constant decomposition happening at a rate high enough to spike ammonia off the scale, you have a lot of bacteria food...way more than you will when things stop dying off and decomposing. So, bacterial growth may have caught up with the level of nitrogen being produced, but things are still dying...you just test zero for ammonia cause there are enough bacteria present to keep up with he nitrogen being released by the dying stuff....does not mean things are finished decomposing.
Now, if things are decomposing, they are releasing more than ammonia. Guess what dead sponges release? All their toxic metabolites. Guess what else? All their natural antibiotic compounds...prevents some microbes from doing very well. Same with the algae, the inverts the cyano, the dinoflagellates, etc. So, let's just figure this death and decomposition is going to take a while. OK, so now we have a tank packed with some kinds of bacteria, probably not much of others. Eventually the death stops. Now, what happens to all that biomass of bacteria without a food source? They die. Ooops. And, de-nitrification is a slow process. Guess what else...bacteria also have antibiotics, toxins, etc. all released when they die. But, the die-off is slow, relative to the loss of nutrients, and there is already a huge population...so you never test ammonia..."The water tests fine"
 

spanko

Active Member
But, all these swings are happening...every time, they get less and less, but they keep happening. Eventually, they slow and stabilize. What's left? A tank with limited de-nitrification and a whole lot of other stuff in the water. Who comes to the rescue and thrives? The next fastest growing groups...cyano's, single celled algae, protists, ciliates, etc. Then they do their little cycle thing. And then the turf algae. Turfs get mowed down by all the little amphipods that are suddenly springing up cause they have a food source. Maybe you've bought some snails by now, too. And a fish. And the fish dies, of course, because it may not have ammonia to contend with, but is has water filled with things we can't and don't test for...plus, beginning aquarists usually skimp on lights and pumps initially, and haven't figured out that alkalinity test, so pH and O2 are probably swinging wildly at this point.
So, the algae succession kick in, and eventually you have a good algal biomass that handles nitrogen, the bacteria have long settled in and also deal with nutrients, and the aquarium keeper has probably stopped adding fish for a spell cause they keep dying and they started to visit boards and read books and get the knack of the tank a bit. They have probably also added a bunch of fix-it-quick chemicals that didn’t help any, either. Also, they are probably scared to add corals that would actually help with the photosynthesis and nutrient uptake, or they have packed in corals that aren't tolerant of those conditions.
About a year into it, the sand bed is productive and has stratified, water quality is stable, and the aquarist has bought a few more power heads, understand water quality a bit, corallines and algae, if not corals and other things are photosynthesizing well, and the tank is "mature." That's when fish stop dying when you buy them (at least the cyanide free ones) and corals start to live and grow and I stop getting posts about "I just bought a coral and its dying and my tank is two months old" and they start actually answering some questions here and there.
So, ecologically, this is success ional population dynamics. Its normal, and it happens when there is a hurricane or a fire, or whatever. In nature though, you have pioneer species that are eventually replaced by climax communities. We usually try and stock immediately with climax species. And find it doesn't always work. Now, the "too mature" system is the old tank syndrome. Happens in nature, too. That whole forest fire reinvigorating the system is true. Equally true on coral reefs where the intermediate disturbance hypothesis is the running thought on why coral reefs maintain very high diversity...they’re stable, but not too stable, and require storms, but not catastrophic ones....predation, but not a giant blanket of crown of thorns, mass bleaching, or loss of key herbivores.
This goes to show what good approximations these tanks are of mini-ecosystems. Things happen much faster in tanks, but what do you expect given the bioload per unit area. So, our climax community happens in a couple years rather than a couple of centuries. Thing is, I am fully convinced that intermediate tank disturbance would prevent old tank syndrome.
So, that's it for now...time for me to hit the hay...sorry for typos, I am typing too fast in a dark office.
__________________
Eric Borneman
 

lietz06

Member
Thank you so much for all of the replies. I was wondering what the personalities of your LMB's are. We got him on Sat. and all he's done is hid. He blends in so well I can't hardly find him. So I don't know if he's eating anything. Our spotted hawkfish seems to be bullying him. I went onto a site though and the compatiblity chart said they would be alright together. I've read that they have really good personalities.
 

al mc

Active Member
Originally Posted by lietz06
http:///forum/post/2824139
Thank you so much for all of the replies. I was wondering what the personalities of your LMB's are. We got him on Sat. and all he's done is hid. He blends in so well I can't hardly find him. So I don't know if he's eating anything. Our spotted hawkfish seems to be bullying him. I went onto a site though and the compatiblity chart said they would be alright together. I've read that they have really good personalities.
Mine are very entertaining, when out. They are usually out 4-6 hours per day in my reefs.
 

pumper

Member
Originally Posted by SpiderWoman
http:///forum/post/2822843
If you want to keep him, I'd probably invest on a hangon refugium. At least you have a good amount of LR in your tank.
How is the pod population, do you see a lot of them?
Here is a bit more about his diet.
A refugium for a lmb? You don't need one. They don't eat pods.
 

girlina4x4

Member
My LMB (rip- was eaten by a crab) was my fave fish. Within 2 days he took care of all the hair algea. After that he ate algea sheets, frozen and freeze dried blood worms, frozen mysis, krill, flakes, and shrimp pellets. He was out and about quite often, resting on things like the powerhead and heater. My other LMB which is in my tank at work, eats the same things, but hides more often. He only comes out when he thinks im not looking. But I know where his hiding place is, and if I look through the back/side of the tank, he looks right at me and doesnt scurry away. They are very fun fish!
 

salt nate

Member
My LMB always hangs out perched on a rock watching my everymove. He eats off the glass and the diatoms off the bottom (do you think this is enough food for him? I have a 75 gal with about 60 lbs of LR). He never touches my hair algae

He is a really cool fish....like this guy----
 

girlina4x4

Member
I would offer a 2x2 peice of an algea sheet and see if he likes it. Out of the four Ive had, Ive never seen one eat diatoms. maybe he is going after leftover food?
 
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