Light diffusion by acrylic

scgator

Member
I want to build a light box with an acrylic splash sheild. Does acrylic affect the light intensity that passes through it? I tried a search (was sure I read the answer before), but came up blank. I don't want to spend that much for lights and then have the acrylic make them useless.
 

phixer

Active Member
Acrylic transmits 92% of the light that passes through it, it also reflects the light fewer times allowing you to see the full spectrum of light as well. Starphire glass is close. Acrylic will allow a more realistic view of your tank inhabitants, however it can also soften under the intense heat caused by some light bulbs. Starphire glass is better for splash shields IMO.
 

bojik

Member
Originally Posted by Phixer
Acrylic transmits 92% of the light that passes through it, it also reflects the light fewer times allowing you to see the full spectrum of light as well. Starphire glass is close. Acrylic will allow a more realistic view of your tank inhabitants, however it can also soften under the intense heat caused by some light bulbs. Starphire glass is better for splash shields IMO.
Not always soften but many times it will warp the daylights out of it unless its braced.
 

phixer

Active Member
By softening I mean the result of being heated. Acrylic must be heated in order to cause warping, the warping occurs from its own weight causing it to sag while being subjected to sustained heat for long periods of time. Im thinking glass would be his best option if directly under lights. Ive used pendant lights over the cut outs on top so that the light is directly over the water without problems of warping.
 

xdave

Active Member
If your acrylic splash guard gets hot enough to warp, you need to solve the heat problem, which will solve the warping problem.
 

scgator

Member
The reason I was favoring acrylic is that I already have it. The lights are PC. Since they have less heat output I really wasn't concerned with warping (OK hadn't even thought of it). Do you think that it will still warp under PC? I realize that Metal Halide are the best option, if you want anenomes and such. I really only want to put some button polyps and maybe some shrooms in so the pC should be more than adequate. Yes? This tank is at my office so I want it as trouble free as possible. On down the road when I upgrade to a bigger tank (for my house) then I will get the halides and do the full reef thing. Anyway back to the question at hand...Do you think the acrylic will be OK under PC?
I'm not trying to be dificult. I've already had problems once with moving too fast, not asking advice, etc. Please realize that my questioning is in an effort to "get it right"...both for me and my future tank friends.
Thanks
Chris
OH YEAH AND GO GATORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

phixer

Active Member
Bob Fenner has some good advice and responds to emails here. This supports the reason why you dont want to place acrylic too close to your heat producing lights. The best way to light an acrylic tank IMO is to use pendant lights over the cut outs, if this cannot be done then leave enough of a distance between the top of the tank and the light to prevent the heat from warping the acrylic. Using a canopy with fans at each end will provide good enough air circulation and cooling to prevent the heat from warping your top panel. Use this link for tons of information on the subject. Specifically this article.
Acrylic Tanks & MH
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mhmarfaqs.htm
http://www.at-home-and-tanked.com/acrylic.html
 
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