Lighting FAQ

mudplayerx

Active Member
This FAQ and info sheet is mainly for metal halide lighting, but it has some items that are useful enough to categorize it as a general "lighting faq." Please feel free to add anything useful. I take no credit for this information or any of the attachments.
How much lighting do I need?

The amount of light required depends on what type of livestock you want to keep. A very colorful selection of corals can be grown under two VHO fluorescents, or four RO (regular output) fluorescents covering the length of your aquarium. Examples of corals that will do well under this scenario are mushroom anemones, bubble tip anemones, bubble coral, zooanthids, star polyps and other polyp colonies. If you would like a greater variety of species, and possibly a more natural looking aquarium, metal halide or a metal halide/fluorescent combination would be more desirable. Metal halides will give the water column the same glitter effect as the sun, and also enable your system to support higher light loving corals (e.g. most Acropora sp.). As a rough guideline, a low to medium light system uses 2-5 watts of light per gallon, and a medium to high light system uses 5-10 watts per gallon. Corals requiring low light can be kept in high light systems, but may have to be positioned accordingly.
How many metal halides do I need for my sized tank?

The quantity of metal halide bulbs is first determined by applying the "watts per gallon" guideline (see question/answer above), and then by the length of your tank. For evenness of light color across the length of the aqarium, approximately one metal halide per two feet of tank length is suggested. For example, a 55-gallon regular (48" long) could easily accommodate two metal halides, but a 55-gallon hexagon (24" long) would only accommodate one metal halide. If evenness of light is not necessarily required or desired, a 6-foot tank may be maintained with only two metal halides, resulting in "shadier" zones toward the ends.
What is color temperature?

Color temperature, or degrees Kelvin (°K), is a number assigned to a bulb to describe the color of light it emits. The lower the number the warmer or more to the orange/yellow side of the light spectrum is its appearance. The higher the number the cooler or more to the blue side of the light spectrum.
Here are some °K examples and their corresponding color descriptions:
3000K
yellowish
5000K
noon sun
10000K
white with blue
20000K MH
blue
When is supplemental fluorescent lighting desired or needed with metal halides?

Some metal halides produce the proper spectrum of light to stand alone. However, to achieve full enjoyment out of viewing your fish and corals in the colors as they would appear in the ocean at depths of about twenty feet or less, you should use the following guidelines:
5500K MH
supplement with actinic
6500K MH
can stand alone; some actinic enhances spectrum
10000K MH
can stand alone; actinic enhances spectrum
14000K MH
can stand alone; no actinic necessary
20000K MH
supplement with daylight or 50/50
6500K MH Iwasaki
supplement with 3 actinics, 1 daylight for best color
50000K MH Iwasaki Aqua can stand alone />Is heat from lighting detrimental to my aquarium?
Heat is not a problem when using RO fluorescents. When using VHO or MH lighting, however, fans should be installed in your canopy. Chillers are not necessary in most areas, although they are recommended for any system where the air temperature in the room housing your aquarium consistently rises above 90º Fahrenheit. Heater settings may need to be adjusted up when adding a metal halide lighting system in order to narrow the daily temperature fluctuation. Temperatures between 79-84º are OK.
How long should my lights be on?

Guidelines for aquarium lighting photo periods are as follows:
actinics
12 hours per day
MH supplemented with actinics
6-10 hours per day
MH stand alone
12 hours per day
fluorescent systems
12 hours per day
Example times for a three-stage lighting system:
10:00 a.m. actinics on
11:00 a.m. fluorescents on
12:00 p.m. metal halides on
8:00 p.m. metal halides off
9:00 p.m. fluorescents off
10:00 p.m.
actinics off
How long will my bulbs last?

Fluorescent bulbs should be changed every six months, and metal halide bulbs every six to twelve months depending on the bulb type and coral requirements.
Why are compact lights less desireable

There are several reasons why VHO fluorescent tube lighting is recommended over compact fluorescent bulbs. First, compact fluorescent bulb lengths aren't as well suited for most stock aquarium lengths. Secondly, contrary to some posted info, it has found that electronically ballasted VHO bulbs last longer than compacts, and can also be dimmed with an added dimmer. Also, VHO bulbs are less expensive, and the very small output increase that the compact fluorescent bulbs have over VHOs is not significant enough to give up the benefits of VHO lighting.
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
Photosynthesis is a biochemical reaction in which carbon dioxide, water and light energy ultimately produce oxygen and carbohydrates; it is a link between the inorganic and organic worlds. The rate of photosynthesis is generally proportional to the amount of available light. Light quantity (intensity) and quality (spectral composition) are important for plant growth.
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
Botanists and phycologists use terms with which one should be familiar. These include:Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR):
measure of visible light intensity (400-700 nm) obtained by using a quantum meter. PAR is simply a count of photons falling upon a surface in a given time and is reported as “micro Mols per square meter per second” (µMols·m2·sec). Quantum meters report all wavelengths between 400 and 700 nanometers. However, they report only light intensity and do not account for spectral quality. Generally, maximum solar PAR values are 2,000 – 2,100 µMols·m2·sec. PAR is something of an outlaw in the scientific community; it is not recognized as a standard unit, however most major works in the field (notably Kirk (1983), among others) state compensation and saturation points (see below) in PAR units. (Since PAR is a relative new-comer to science, it has not been recognized by CIE (Commission Internationale de L’Eclairage) or the International System of Units (SI) – both had already adopted standards for measuring light intensity. Lack of recognition by either of these committees should not undermine the importance of PAR measurements. Incidentally, divide µMols·m2·sec (of sunlight) by 4.6 to convert to watts per square meter per second (which is a SI-recognized unit.) A quantum meter is better suited for reporting light intensity than lux meters. Lux meters are photometric in their response, that is, they “see” light as the human eye does and have a maximum sensitivity to green wavelengths. The human eye is not especially sensitive to those wavelengths known to promote photosynthesis (violet, blue and red). Generally, noontime lux measurements made on cloudless days in the tropics range from 100,000 – 120,000 lux.
Maximum PAR

is the highest measurement made under standardized conditions (for our cases, the lamps are 3.5" above the PAR sensor. This replicates the distance from the lamp to aquarium water surface in many cases.
Blue PAR

is determined by using the PAR sensor and subtracting glass cut-off filters. A yellow filter removes blue wavelengths, red removes green, and blue removes red. The amount of radiation subtracted is added together and the "blue" PAR is divided by the sum of all 3 to arrive at an approximation of broadband PAR in each case. (These are exact, but since all lamps are tested under the same conditions, it allows us to compare lamps.)
Compensation Point

is usually defined as the minimum amount of light required for oxygen production to meet the zooxanthellae/coral host respiratory requirements. Corals have the ability to absorb oxygen from the surrounding water (as they do in darkness); however, insufficient light energy may also result in low production of photosynthetic lipids. During periods of prolonged darkness (or inadequate light) zooxanthellae will then use their energy reserves until they are depleted and a sort of starvation occurs, usually resulting in irreversible damage or death. Compensation points vary from specimen to specimen and often depend upon their light history. Compensation points in low light adapted corals may be just a few µMols·m2·sec or much higher in high light adapted corals (350 µMols·m2·sec or ~17,500 lux; see Kirk, 1983). It should be understood that light intensity should exceed the zooxanthella’s compensation point.
Saturation Point

Photosynthetic rates are proportional to light intensity only to a certain point. The Saturation Point has been met when photosynthesis is at a maximum, and increasing light will no longer increase the rate of photosynthesis. Saturation occurs when the photosynthesis electron transport systems are operating at full capacity. Exceeding the saturation point is pointless, and from a practical standpoint, results in needlessly high electric bills. If light energy greatly exceeds the saturation point, Photoinhibition may occur. Photoinhibition is generally defined as any occurrence interrupting the normal electron flow in photosynthesis. There are two types of photoinhibition – dynamic and chronic. The first is chronic photoinhibition that involves irreversible damage to Photosystem II and were synthesis of new “photosynthetic proteins” must occur before normal photochemistry may resume (Brown et al, 1999). Dynamic photoinhibition involves reversible photochemical reactions that divert excess light energy away from Photosystem II through thermal dissipation. This “quenching” of photosynthesis involves reversible changes in xanthophylls diadinoxanthin and diatoxanthin. Dynamic photoinhibition protects the zooxanthellae (through absorption of violet through yellow-green wavelengths of 400-550 nm) from high levels of photosynthetically produced oxygen radicals, including hydrogen peroxide. Not all strains of zooxanthellae have the ability to produce xanthophylls and therefore may have little resistance to the effects of high light intensity.
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
Watts or wattage A watt is a unit of power equal to one joule per second. Wattage is the amount of electrical power, expressed in number of watts, or the electrical power required by an appliance or device. Lamps come in various wattage ratings, with the wattage of the particular lamp describing how much electrical power a bulb or tube uses, but not how much light it generates. Different bulb technologies produce differing amounts of light per watt -- or, more technically, different bulb types are more efficient at converting electrical energy into light energy.
Joule The unit of energy equal to the work done when a current of 1 ampere is passed through a resistance of 1 ohm for 1 second.
Lumens
The total amount of light that a lamp is capable of generating, usually available on either the lighting package or from the manufacturer's data sheets. There are two values usually quoted for fluorescent tubes: initial lumens and design lumens. Initial lumens describe how much light it produces when first turned on. Design lumens describe how much light it will produce for a much longer term. After an initial 20 percent drop in brightness, the light output will slowly decrease over the lifetime of the tube.
Lux
A unit of measure equal to lumens per square meter -- or, a measure of the actual intensity of the light falling over a specified area. Because lux depends on how the light gets from the bulb to the area, it can not be specified by the manufacturer, but must be measured by the aquarist.
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
I can also post about 30 different pics of the same tank under different lighting if anyone really wants to see. However, it will be a lot of work to separate them from ads and links to pay sites, so I will not post these unless someone really needs them.
 

ohiorn67

Member
mudplayerx...I am also in nashville area....don't mean to sound stupid but not sure how to read some of these charts. I am currently getting ready to purchase some new lights, think you can help me decide what to get, I have a few in mind.........thanks!
 

ohiorn67

Member
ok, here it goes....
I have a 90....soft corals, mushrooms and a green brain..some zoos and polyps, might put just a couple more things in but not too much. I want to upgrade this tank in about a year or 18m to a 180 or so.....so deciding what is best to put my money in now...will probably eventually sell this tank when I start the new one.
here are prices...of what I can get, so deciding what it is I really need....
orbit 4x96 power compact....4 moons .....355.00 + ship 20.00
orbit 4x130 power compact....4 moons....467.00 + ship 20.00
outer orbit 2x150 mh, 2x130...6 moons....599.00 +ship 20.00
what are bulb prices since will need to change eventually...
 

ophiura

Active Member

Originally posted by Sato
I agree, nice post.
That must have taken some time to put together.

Not really if you cut and paste. ;)
Starting to see a lot of these cut and paste articles here. At least in this case there was the "I take no credit for it" which is A LOT more than most other people do. In this case it comes from a competitor site, so a link can not be provided.
 

nm reef

Active Member
Very informative....and avoided issues with linking to other hopbby related sites. I've seen the same info myself. It is great that you took the time and effort to cut/paste it here and stay within the established guidelines.But I would like to make a suggestion...for articles like this its often best to have prior permission to reproduce it and in most situations it may be a good idea to give credit to the author. I'd hate to see copy right issues and claims of that nature pop up.
Thanks for thking the time and effort to provide access to the info.....it is appreciated.
 

ophiura

Active Member

Originally posted by mudplayerx
Botanists and phycologists use terms with which one should be familiar. [

Never will I be caught using the terms of a phycologist! I still have my pride!
No doubt I will insult one of the phycologists on the board.
Sigh.

It is definitely good info :yes:
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
I just put this here so others could use it. None of the info or the pics had any disclaimer about copyrights or needing permission to duplicate. Once again, I claim no ownership or rights to this material. :)
Ohiorn, if you are trying to save cash, do without the moon lights. They serve no purpose other than aesthetics. Think of them as a VERY expensive night light, hehe. I would definately go with metal halide. Keep in mind that you will need a MH bulb per two feet of tank length. When you upgrade to the larger tank, you can just buy additional MH fixtures and place them alongside your old ones.
If your tank is around 21 inches deep, 150watt double-ended will be fine.
 

snipe

Active Member
I agree with NM always best to give the credit were it needs to be. I have done this a couple of times but I dont want to get in trouble so I tell them it wasnt me that made it "put all the info together" and gave the credit to the person who did.
 
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