Lighting Question
- Thread starter scotty37
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farslayer
Active Member
The difference is in the value of the light produced. PC, or power compact, lights are the bottom of the barrel for coral keepers. These allow you to maintain softies and LPS, but nothing else. The light is not very intense compared to anything above them. T5 refers to a type of high output (HO) florescent light with a diameter of 5/8ths of an inch. These are low wattage, high output lighting which beat the pants off of PC. It is debatable about whether you can keep SPS, clams, etc under them. I use T5 lights as actinics.
Metal Halides are the best of the best; these are high intensity bulbs with extreme water penetration and high PAR values when used with the right reflectors. MH is arguably the only lighting sufficient to maintain clams and SPS corals. It comes in two flavors, mogul and HQI. Mogul MH bulbs run very hot and resemble the screw-in bulbs you're used to. HQI bulbs are much brighter for the same wattage, run cooler, and are also referred to as DE (double ended) bulbs. It is imperative that you never touch a MH bulb with your bare hands. The oil from your fingers can be heated up by the bulb and it will crack; only handle the bulbs by the ends or with gloves.
Metal Halides are the best of the best; these are high intensity bulbs with extreme water penetration and high PAR values when used with the right reflectors. MH is arguably the only lighting sufficient to maintain clams and SPS corals. It comes in two flavors, mogul and HQI. Mogul MH bulbs run very hot and resemble the screw-in bulbs you're used to. HQI bulbs are much brighter for the same wattage, run cooler, and are also referred to as DE (double ended) bulbs. It is imperative that you never touch a MH bulb with your bare hands. The oil from your fingers can be heated up by the bulb and it will crack; only handle the bulbs by the ends or with gloves.
grumpygils
Active Member
Originally Posted by scotty37
That is very good information from a fellow west virginian! Thanks so much! Anywhere I can get pictures of each so I know what I am looking for?
Don't mention competitor sites. 1Journeyman
1journeyman
Active Member
Originally Posted by scotty37
That is very good information from a fellow west virginian! Thanks so much! Anywhere I can get pictures of each so I know what I am looking for?
Google the different type lighting....
Metal Halides are the best for high intensity corals. There are two types of MHs. I prefer the HQI. Smaller bulbs, but more intense light. HQIs must be shielded so you lose some intensity, but still plenty for reef tanks without all of the heat associated with normal "mogul" MHs.
Now.... heat with lighting is an issue. MH's, even HQIs will need fans and good ventilation.
That is very good information from a fellow west virginian! Thanks so much! Anywhere I can get pictures of each so I know what I am looking for?
Google the different type lighting....
Metal Halides are the best for high intensity corals. There are two types of MHs. I prefer the HQI. Smaller bulbs, but more intense light. HQIs must be shielded so you lose some intensity, but still plenty for reef tanks without all of the heat associated with normal "mogul" MHs.
Now.... heat with lighting is an issue. MH's, even HQIs will need fans and good ventilation.
1journeyman
Active Member
I personally just built a large canopy over my tank and screwed the lighting into the top. I put 2 10 inch fans (the Wal Mart kind of fan for like $20) in the canopy.
But yes... many folks use chillers because of their lights.
But yes... many folks use chillers because of their lights.
newtankman
Member
Originally Posted by Farslayer
The difference is in the value of the light produced. PC, or power compact, lights are the bottom of the barrel for coral keepers. These allow you to maintain softies and LPS, but nothing else. The light is not very intense compared to anything above them. T5 refers to a type of high output (HO) florescent light with a diameter of 5/8ths of an inch. These are low wattage, high output lighting which beat the pants off of PC. It is debatable about whether you can keep SPS, clams, etc under them. I use T5 lights as actinics.
Metal Halides are the best of the best; these are high intensity bulbs with extreme water penetration and high PAR values when used with the right reflectors. MH is arguably the only lighting sufficient to maintain clams and SPS corals. It comes in two flavors, mogul and HQI. Mogul MH bulbs run very hot and resemble the screw-in bulbs you're used to. HQI bulbs are much brighter for the same wattage, run cooler, and are also referred to as DE (double ended) bulbs. It is imperative that you never touch a MH bulb with your bare hands. The oil from your fingers can be heated up by the bulb and it will crack; only handle the bulbs by the ends or with gloves.
Great info!
I was wondering myself.
The difference is in the value of the light produced. PC, or power compact, lights are the bottom of the barrel for coral keepers. These allow you to maintain softies and LPS, but nothing else. The light is not very intense compared to anything above them. T5 refers to a type of high output (HO) florescent light with a diameter of 5/8ths of an inch. These are low wattage, high output lighting which beat the pants off of PC. It is debatable about whether you can keep SPS, clams, etc under them. I use T5 lights as actinics.
Metal Halides are the best of the best; these are high intensity bulbs with extreme water penetration and high PAR values when used with the right reflectors. MH is arguably the only lighting sufficient to maintain clams and SPS corals. It comes in two flavors, mogul and HQI. Mogul MH bulbs run very hot and resemble the screw-in bulbs you're used to. HQI bulbs are much brighter for the same wattage, run cooler, and are also referred to as DE (double ended) bulbs. It is imperative that you never touch a MH bulb with your bare hands. The oil from your fingers can be heated up by the bulb and it will crack; only handle the bulbs by the ends or with gloves.
Great info!
farslayer
Active Member
Oh dude, that sucks. BTW, thanks for the compliments newtankman. I guess I can go into my diatribe about watts/gallon as well.
There is a very ignorant measurement used for tank lighting: watts per gallon. Unfortunately, it seems that some don't understand what a watt actually is. A watt is a measurement of the energy used to get something done, such as walking up stairs (about 2000W) or running a car engine (25000+ watts).
A watt is equal to one joule (pronounced "jewel" or "jowel") of energy per second; thus, a 60W bulb requires 60 joules of energy per second to remain lit. A watt is INPUT energy, not output. Output of a light source is measured in lumens (or candles), and for the reef keeper, we need to know the PAR value at different depths in the tank. Corals do not care how much energy it takes to power a bulb, they only care about the value of the output; in other words, the conversion of energy into lumens.
So, watts/gallon is an ignorant measurement which has no value. If I place 50 100W light bulbs over my tank, what value do you think that really has in terms of light output?
Hope that helps some
There is a very ignorant measurement used for tank lighting: watts per gallon. Unfortunately, it seems that some don't understand what a watt actually is. A watt is a measurement of the energy used to get something done, such as walking up stairs (about 2000W) or running a car engine (25000+ watts).
A watt is equal to one joule (pronounced "jewel" or "jowel") of energy per second; thus, a 60W bulb requires 60 joules of energy per second to remain lit. A watt is INPUT energy, not output. Output of a light source is measured in lumens (or candles), and for the reef keeper, we need to know the PAR value at different depths in the tank. Corals do not care how much energy it takes to power a bulb, they only care about the value of the output; in other words, the conversion of energy into lumens.
So, watts/gallon is an ignorant measurement which has no value. If I place 50 100W light bulbs over my tank, what value do you think that really has in terms of light output?
Hope that helps some
grumpygils
Active Member
Originally Posted by grumpygils
Don't mention competitor sites. 1Journeyman
I guess I should of said google ....marine.... aquarium...lighting? Much difference?
Mc
thud
Member
Originally Posted by Farslayer
Oh dude, that sucks. BTW, thanks for the compliments newtankman. I guess I can go into my diatribe about watts/gallon as well.
There is a very ignorant measurement used for tank lighting: watts per gallon. Unfortunately, it seems that some don't understand what a watt actually is. A watt is a measurement of the energy used to get something done, such as walking up stairs (about 2000W) or running a car engine (25000+ watts).
A watt is equal to one joule (pronounced "jewel" or "jowel") of energy per second; thus, a 60W bulb requires 60 joules of energy per second to remain lit. A watt is INPUT energy, not output. Output of a light source is measured in lumens (or candles), and for the reef keeper, we need to know the PAR value at different depths in the tank. Corals do not care how much energy it takes to power a bulb, they only care about the value of the output; in other words, the conversion of energy into lumens.
So, watts/gallon is an ignorant measurement which has no value. If I place 50 100W light bulbs over my tank, what value do you think that really has in terms of light output?
Hope that helps some
Watts per gallon is especially bad since not all tanks have the same height, you dont want tooooo much lighting on a small, short tank.
Oh dude, that sucks. BTW, thanks for the compliments newtankman. I guess I can go into my diatribe about watts/gallon as well.
There is a very ignorant measurement used for tank lighting: watts per gallon. Unfortunately, it seems that some don't understand what a watt actually is. A watt is a measurement of the energy used to get something done, such as walking up stairs (about 2000W) or running a car engine (25000+ watts).
A watt is equal to one joule (pronounced "jewel" or "jowel") of energy per second; thus, a 60W bulb requires 60 joules of energy per second to remain lit. A watt is INPUT energy, not output. Output of a light source is measured in lumens (or candles), and for the reef keeper, we need to know the PAR value at different depths in the tank. Corals do not care how much energy it takes to power a bulb, they only care about the value of the output; in other words, the conversion of energy into lumens.
So, watts/gallon is an ignorant measurement which has no value. If I place 50 100W light bulbs over my tank, what value do you think that really has in terms of light output?
Hope that helps some
Watts per gallon is especially bad since not all tanks have the same height, you dont want tooooo much lighting on a small, short tank.
myreef05
Member
Originally Posted by thud
Watts per gallon is especially bad since not all tanks have the same height, you dont want tooooo much lighting on a small, short tank.
Agree PAR's is what matters. I was very confused for the longes time. I wanted MH, did not want the heat. I bought T-5's and am very happy.
Watts per gallon is especially bad since not all tanks have the same height, you dont want tooooo much lighting on a small, short tank.
Agree PAR's is what matters. I was very confused for the longes time. I wanted MH, did not want the heat. I bought T-5's and am very happy.
1journeyman
Active Member
Originally Posted by grumpygils
I guess I should of said google ....marine.... aquarium...lighting? Much difference?
Mc
Yes, as a matter of fact... that google search would lead to a variety of information. Your deleted post would have lead directly to a competitor.
The rules are clear. Let's not argue about them.
I guess I should of said google ....marine.... aquarium...lighting? Much difference?
Mc
Yes, as a matter of fact... that google search would lead to a variety of information. Your deleted post would have lead directly to a competitor.
The rules are clear. Let's not argue about them.
scotty37
Member
Farslayer... Im sorry to bother you again, but would you be willing to drop me an email about the lighting? I picked up a new tank which is going to require some kind of coral lighting. There are 2 dirty old reflectors screwed into the top of the canopy, which I am going to take out. I was thinking about replacing those 2 with 2 MH Retro Kits. What do you think of this idea? The whole wattage thing is way too far over my head. The tank is 120 gallons, but is only 4 foot long. approx 2 foot wide and deep. The lighting will be almost 2 foot over the water. The whole setup is 81 inches. The canopy is about 18 inches and theres some more room to water level. The wattages I have found are 175, 250, and 400... Because of the water depth, I am thinking I need the 400 if this is what I end up going with. What do you think? My email is scott_lowery@hotmail.com. I cant tell you how much I would appreciate your time and thoughts!
