Looks like I need an RO unit ??

[lil.guppy]

Well I have been buying Certified Distilled Drinking water that says,
Origin: City water system
Prepared by: activated Charcoal, reverse osmosis, de-ionization, steam distilled plus micro filtration
Sodium free 0.027mg
per 6 Oz. glass
Mineral Content Less than 1 ppm
Is this bad stuff? Or is it ok?
Im spending $1.13 a gallon on this stuff and I like to do 20% weekly water changes.
Soooo I need an RO unit but I have no idea where to start. I want to keep it under 100$
Any ideas?

 

[jthomas0385]

The store that I go to sells RO water that you fill yourself for $.29. It's a lot cheaper than buying water that expensive.

 

[gmann1139]

Originally Posted by lil.guppy
http:///forum/post/2923490
Prepared by: activated Charcoal, reverse osmosis, de-ionization, steam distilled plus micro filtration
This is... confusing. I don't know if I trust it.
Plus with the cost over $1/gallon, I'd look elsewhere.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Originally Posted by gmann1139
http:///forum/post/2924057
This is... confusing. I don't know if I trust it.
Plus with the cost over $1/gallon, I'd look elsewhere.
100 gallons of top off water, and you could pay for an RO Unit. lol!
I'de look elsewhere too. If you don't find a spot with good water, then buy an RO/DI unit.

 

[directvguy]

I buy mine at the local grocery store for 39 cents. Havent had any problems and they replaced the filters in December.

 

[lil.guppy]

I could drive 20 minutes and they sell it for .39 a gallon, but I think with gas it would be better to just buy my own unit.
Now I dont even know where to start. There are so many on the market. What would ya'll recomend?

 

[westwind77]

In the past I used tap water with additives to eliminate the 'bad stuff', but after seeing the importance of quality water I looked into an RO unit. After seeing the cost of these, and the replacement filter costs I found API's DI 'Tap Water Filter' (it is not RO but DI water). Since using that water my aquarium has been amazing! I have tested the water and it passes all my tests perfect. It does not take long to my 5 or 10 gallons either. Personally I do not seem to need an RO unit, but your situation may differ. Just thought I would pass that along.

 

[mr. limpid]

I have a coral life 50gal. unit with DI cartride, works very well, it will make 1gal of RO water every 25min. Just to let you know it takes 3gal of water to make 1gal of RO. So when looking for a place to install the unit make sure there is a drain as well. I have installed mine buy the washer/dryer and use the run of water to fill the washing machine not to waste it.

 

[lil.guppy]

Originally Posted by Mr. Limpid
http:///forum/post/2924283
I have a coral life 50gal. unit with DI cartride, works very well, it will make 1gal of RO water every 25min. Just to let you know it takes 3gal of water to make 1gal of RO. So when looking for a place to install the unit make sure there is a drain as well. I have installed mine buy the washer/dryer and use the run of water to fill the washing machine not to waste it.
Yea I was actually looking at that one, but I am stuck between getting that one or the Kent RO/DI unit.
Is the DI really that important

 

[lil.guppy]

Ok I really like the Kent RO/DI unit but it says this
Note: Chlorine will ruin TFC, Hi-F, and Hi-S membranes so prior carbon filtration is required.
That doesnt mean I have to filter the water before putting through the unit does it?

 

[snakeblitz33]

lil.guppy,
The DI unit is DeIonization. It's purpose is to remove any excess phosphates in the water that your RO membrane leaks through. With a TDS reading of 1.0, you can essentially introduce 1ppm of phosphate into your system. (if I remember reading correctly) I Highly recommend a DI unit. You can look into some really awesome systems from a co. called airwaterice. They have great customer service and can help you with all your needs. I hope everything goes well with your tank? Could you maybe post links to your main build thread so we can all see it so far?

 

[lil.guppy]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///forum/post/2924321
lil.guppy,
The DI unit is DeIonization. It's purpose is to remove any excess phosphates in the water that your RO membrane leaks through. With a TDS reading of 1.0, you can essentially introduce 1ppm of phosphate into your system. (if I remember reading correctly) I Highly recommend a DI unit. You can look into some really awesome systems from a co. called airwaterice. They have great customer service and can help you with all your needs. I hope everything goes well with your tank? Could you maybe post links to your main build thread so we can all see it so far?
Ok great thanks

Looks like I need to upgrade some pics on it too
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/345936/my-tanks-46g-bow-sw-55g-fw
I will get some updated photos. I have changed the rock around again and it looks better

 

[snakeblitz33]

By the way, if I were to design my own RO Unit for commercial use:
1. First two chambers - water sofening resins 20in.
2. Next two chambers - 10 micron sediment filters 20in.
3. Next two filters - 5 micron carbon block filter and 1 micron carbon block filters 20in.
4. 6x100gpd RO Unit membranes
5. next two chambers - DI cartridges with a TDS meter to measure output TDS.
For home use:
1. 2 water softening chambers
2. 2 sediment filters
3. 2 carbon block filters
4. 4 DI units
In my local area, an RO Unit is not required because the TDS isn't that high. I have Alumn in the city water which clogs up the RO Unit membranes every two weeks. Even though RO Membranes only cost $20, it's not worth $40 a month for a single unit. Besides, my TDS reading coming out of my home system stays pretty much at constant zero. I don't know the affects of alumn in saltwater, however I haven't seen any problems thus far.