Lower Nitrates w/ Clean-up Crew Aid?

[arbados]

I have had my tank up for 3+ years and have always had ongoing NitrAte problems. My ammonia and nitrItes are always at 0, with my salinity at about 1.21 and Ph at 8.0.
I have done water changes and the nitrate would temprarily go down to about 20, but I have never had it at 0 and it usually holds at about 40.
I had seen that it says cleaner clams may help with this. I was wondering if there are any other inverts and such that might help as well.
I have not had much, if at all, a clean-up crew for some time because of my previous fish (lunar wrasse, panther grouper, niger trigger). They ate everything. However, I have sold these and am now starting over with only a maroon clown and a juvenile queen angel (already in tank) in my 55 gallon.
I understand that many may say the tank is too small for the angel, but I have had great luck with all my fish being in my tank and then selling them when they get too large (examples: panther grouper, lunar wrasse, dragon wrasse). They all lived for about 1-2 years before selling them.
The question is what I could do to get the nitrAte levels lower because I understand that queen angels are very sensitive to this. I am now in the process of getting a clean up crew and am looking for any suggestions besides this to get the levels lower. I use tap water when doing a water change. Would it be a good idea to use some of those chemicals to add to the water when doing a water change with tap water. Would that help with the Nitrate problem?
What about all those sand sifting snails and such. I know this question is a common one asked, but I would appreciate any and all ideas on finally getting this problem fixed.
Thanks.

 

[1knight164]

Originally Posted by Arbados
I have had my tank up for 3+ years and have always had ongoing NitrAte problems. My ammonia and nitrItes are always at 0, with my salinity at about 1.21 and Ph at 8.0.
I have done water changes and the nitrate would temprarily go down to about 20, but I have never had it at 0 and it usually holds at about 40.
I had seen that it says cleaner clams may help with this. I was wondering if there are any other inverts and such that might help as well.
I have not had much, if at all, a clean-up crew for some time because of my previous fish (lunar wrasse, panther grouper, niger trigger). They ate everything. However, I have sold these and am now starting over with only a maroon clown and a juvenile queen angel (already in tank) in my 55 gallon.
I understand that many may say the tank is too small for the angel, but I have had great luck with all my fish being in my tank and then selling them when they get too large (examples: panther grouper, lunar wrasse, dragon wrasse). They all lived for about 1-2 years before selling them.
The question is what I could do to get the nitrAte levels lower because I understand that queen angels are very sensitive to this. I am now in the process of getting a clean up crew and am looking for any suggestions besides this to get the levels lower. I use tap water when doing a water change. Would it be a good idea to use some of those chemicals to add to the water when doing a water change with tap water. Would that help with the Nitrate problem?
What about all those sand sifting snails and such. I know this question is a common one asked, but I would appreciate any and all ideas on finally getting this problem fixed.
Thanks.
I don't claim to be an expert by any means, but using tap water is a no-no unless it's pristine, which is rare. Tap water can contain nitrates and phosphates an all kinds of chemicals and minerals that are bad for the tank, IMO, but some may argue that point. If you don't have an RO/DI system, buy distilled water (for water changes and top-off) from Walmart or get RO water from you LFS. Pretty cheap and worth it. But try avoiding tap water for a while and see if that helps. If you prefer using your tap water, test it with your test kits. Also, get a report from your local water company and find out what's in your tap water. Anyway, hope this helps. You should be getting more advice shortly from other members.

 

[arbados]

Thanks1knight164. I appreciate your input.
Are there any other suggestions or ideas that can help with the question?

 

[nm reef]

Elevated nitrate levels can be attributed to many sources. I avoid using tap water and prefer at least RO water...even better would be RO/DI water for all top off and water changes.Excessive feeding can contribute to nitrates...the type of foods offered as well as the amount fed can be a source of unwanted nitrates. To control current levels I'd urge frequent small percentage water changes...adaquate filtration...limited feedings...keep the bio-load on the system low...bascially just sound reefkeeping standards along with patience.
Just out of curiosity what type of test do you use? I like Salifert myself and I'm convincied that some of the other types can be inaccurate from time to time.

 

[ophiura]

Also, your specific gravity is fatally low for many invertebrates. If you try and add any, you should consider raising your specific gravity to 1.025-1.026

 

[hatessushi]

I use a Midwest Aquatics DeNitrator. I have been using it for 3 weeks now and my nitrates went from about 80 to about 20 now and still going down. Should be at 0 in the next week.

 

[arbados]

I appreciate all the ideas so far. At this point I am going to try RO water or RO/DI as suggested by NM reef. Where is the easiest place to pick this up?
ophiura, are you sure that is adequate gravity levels? Wow! I always thought 1.021-1.023 would be best and the highest to go?
HatesSushi, that sounds unbelievable!!! Where did you pick this stuff up from? Has anyone else used this stuff before to help with Nitrate levels?
I am currently using a FasTest Master Tester kit which was quite costly at $45 from my local fish store. They said it was one of the best. You put powder into a test tube of water and then compare the color to a chart. Not sure if there is something better?

 

[1knight164]

I appreciate all the ideas so far. At this point I am going to try RO water or RO/DI as suggested by NM reef. Where is the easiest place to pick this up?
At your LFS. Should be less than half a buck per gallon. You may consider buying your own system if you're going to be in this for the long haul. And like NM Reef, I switched to Salifert after struggling with inconsistent nitrate readings from several other brands. What a head-ache. They are a bit expensive though. Haven't tried FasTest, though, but I hear it's very good.

 

[sentinel]

Try John Strawn at {Edit link} He sells a hell of a denitrator. Great guy and service. Will answer all your denitrator questions. Mine keeps nitrates at 0. Hope this doesn't infringe any forum rules

 

[arbados]

So from what appears from a couple of you (sentinel and HatesSushi) this denitrater stuff really works. Interesting. Any ideas on the cleaner crabs and such to help?

 

[reefkprz]

Originally Posted by Arbados
ophiura, are you sure that is adequate gravity levels? Wow! I always thought 1.021-1.023 would be best and the highest to go?
She is not mistaken about that. Specific gravity should be maintained between 1.024 low to 1.027 being highest. 1.025-1.026 are Ideal.

 

[watertite]

You don't ever use tap period. I know it can get costly to buy water such as botted distilled or something but I finally beat the nitrate thing buy getting real ocean water by catalina water company. ***** carries it and my fish seem to love it and my problem bottom algae is gone. This was done in combination with a UV sterilizer. I found out that my tap is high in phosphates and that was the underlying problem. You can even get a deionizer from petsmart. A friend of mine has a Koi pond and he told me he filled it with water from the garden hose. Needless to say I stopped him in mid sentance and made him realize the error of his ways. You should probably read a book or two on aquariums and you will get the picture.

 

[arbados]

Over the last few days I have raised the specific gravity to 1.023. Thanks for that input. I didn't want to increase it to quickly. Next I will try with the RO/DI water and see how that fairs for the trates. I will keep you posted.
I am from NY and I understand that tap water from certain areas are better than others. Tomorrow I am going to test my tap water to see what I get. Is there anything specic that I should look for in determining (more out of curiosity now) if it is "good" or "bad".

 

[1journeyman]

Unless you are sending your water out to a professional lab you're not going to find much testing it.
The problem with tap water, imho, is what you aren't testing for. Traces of copper and other metals for instance.
Save yourself a lot of headaches long term and buy a RO/DI water purifier. Dinitrators may work (haven't tried one) but they can't replace good quality water changes.