Macro Algae

[clatong]

I see a lot of posts recommending the use of macro algae to help keep parameters stable, but for some reason (maybe it's just me) am having some trouble finding easy to understand information on them for people new to macro algae, like myself!

My tank has been running for almost 6 months now, and the parameters have stayed very stable (0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0-10 nitrites), but nonetheless am thinking about adding some macro algae, partly because I like the look of some of it. I don't have a refuge or sump, so anything I get would go in the main tank.

How do I add it? I assume this depends on the type. I've seen a local store selling it rubber-banded to small pieces of rock. Is there some that would grow right on the sand, and if so, do I still need to attach it to a rock first?

How to I keep it? I've not tested for anything beyond ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and PH, since I have yet to get my first coral. Should I start testing for anything else? I don't think I need to feed macro algae, but at the risk of sounding dumb, I'd like to clarify that anyways!

How/when do I trim it? Do I need to be concerned only once it starts spreading further than I'd like? Are there signs of it breaking apart as it goes sexual that I can spot before it's too late to avoid polluting the tank? Do I just pull hand fulls out, or do I use scissors?

Since I assume it's okay to post links to places on this site, are there any specific comments/suggestions/experiences you can recommend with these:

https://www.saltwaterfish.com/ORA-Blue-Hypnea_p_10379.html

https://www.saltwaterfish.com/ORA-Agar-Algae_p_2012.html

https://www.saltwaterfish.com/Shaving-Brush_p_329.html

Thank you in advance!

 

[beaslbob]

I am glad to see you interest in macro algae.
I don't think those algae are the best for starters.
I would recommend chaetomorphia. caulerpas, or gracillia (all of which are probably misspelled LOL)
At lower lighting caulerpa profilera seemed to do well but grape caulerpa did better with stronger lights.
In marine systems most macros are eaten by many fish and definately cleaner crews especially various crabs.
The best thing I did with my old 55g was cram in a 1/4" plastic grid (egg crate) 3" in front of the back glass. It is sold a lighting diffuser for drop ceiling at home supply stores. A 4 foot by 2 foot section is like $12 or so. I held it off the back glass with rocks at the bottom and power heads at the top. It also hid the power head which was an added bonus.
I then added 4' 2 tube utility fixtures with 6500k tubes about 6 inches behing the back glass pointing forward. To lite up the area. Different sized tanks can use the round spot reflectors with 6500k spiral pig tail type lights.
what happened was the macros thrives and pods as well in the protected area.
My two tangs were constantly munching on the macros the poked through the egg crate.
Nitrates dropped to 0 3 weeks later and phosphates also a few months later.
Macros were very inexpensive and can even be from locals who toss it out every month or so.
One of the really great advantages is the increased stability of operations. Macros actually prefer to consume ammonia directly. But in a mature tank the bacteria gets the ammonia so the macros use nitrates for nitrogen. But should something go bump in the night and ammonia spikes, then the macros step up and consume the ammonia directly. Preventing possible system crashes by replacing the ammonia spikes with a small nitrate spike.
Not to mention then consume carbon dioxide and return oxygen as well.
So basically the recycle fish wastes into fish food and oxygen.
And in the process filter out nasties like copper as well. Which are then exported by harvesting.
long post.
Still just my .02

 

[2quills]

+1
Algae doesn't have be evil. Reasons to hate it are the very same reasons to love it. Macros can benefit from dosing iron. If you get into that you may want to pick up a test kit for it.

 

[beaslbob]

Quote:Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/397782/macro-algae#post_3546797
+1
Algae doesn't have be evil. Reasons to hate it are the very same reasons to love it. Macros can benefit from dosing iron. If you get into that you may want to pick up a test kit for it.

I used to dose iron with no test kit. I used ferris gluconate from a drug/heathfood store and dissolved a pill in an old soda bottle (12-20 oz). Then added a capful each week to my 10-55g tanks. The idea was to add a very low dose to prevent the macros from being iron starved you not high enough to affect corals. Seemed to work fine.
my .02

 

[clatong]

Thanks for the detailed reply!

I would plan on buying test kits for anything I dose, if for no other reason than to give me peace of mind that I'm not under or over dosing.

I really like your idea for the egg crate, though left myself little room for that when landscaping my 36 gallon. I'll keep it in mind though, and am sure I could work out at least a small partition. Having a "safer" place for pods to thrive would be really nice.

One of my goals is to add to the beauty of the tank (because I do like the look of some of the macro algae I've seen), which is why I was drawn to the few I linked above. What are the reasons you'd not recommend them to a beginner? Would I need to pay attention to, and possibly does, for more chemicals, or get specific lighting, or do you think they require more pruning maintenance?

Obviously with this size tank I don't have any tangs, and I also don't have any crabs. Would shrimp (1 fire, 2 peppermint) graze on the algae?

 

[beaslbob]

I don't have much experience with those except for the saving brush. they didn't get established at least in my tanks.
Some macros like halimeda require high light reef like conditions (calcium alk and so on).
the ones I listed are much more forgiving.
my .02

 

[jay0705]

I use cheato. Fairly new to macro myself. But I just put in my tank in a fairly high flow area , w low to moderate lighting. Tank A my tang and fox loved it!!! Lol tank B its stable and growing slowly. The kole tang doesnt devour it like the yellow and fox did in my other tank

 

[tur4k]

A few people mentioned dosing iron. I just wanted to point out that the directions on most of the more popular iron additives call for way to much solution to be added. The extra iron probably isn't going to hurt anything, but it is definitely not needed. Regular water changes SHOULD keep your macros from sucking up all of the iron.

Most macro's are pretty inexpensive. I would see how they do without dosing iron. If they do well without additives then I'd forget about dosing iron. I would try an iron additive if they aren't growing or dying off. I absolutely would not add the insane amounts recommended by the directions on the side of the bottle.

 

[beaslbob]

Quote:Originally Posted by jay0705 http:///t/397782/macro-algae#post_3546840
I use cheato. Fairly new to macro myself. But I just put in my tank in a fairly high flow area , w low to moderate lighting. Tank A my tang and fox loved it!!! Lol tank B its stable and growing slowly. The kole tang doesnt devour it like the yellow and fox did in my other tank

My experiences exactly especially with a yellow tang. The egg crate partition at the back of the tank allowed the chaeto to thrive. And the tang was constantly sucking out strands that poked through.
my .02

 

[2quills]

Just wanted to mention that iron is also used to enhance color in sps corals as well. However, many of the reef salts out there already contain trace amounts of iron and iodide so it may not be necessary to dose those things.
If you're watching close enough your livestock and color can often be indicators if something is lacking.
Try spreading some iron pellets on your lawn, water it in real good and watch how green that sucker gets without the excellerated growth of of strait nitrogen. Little FYI. Just don't leave the stuff on your sidewalkor you'll end up with thousands of little rust spots everywhere.