maintaining regular temperature?

[atrim55]

My temp would raise also when i would run the lights during the day. But i had my tank at 74-75 and would reach 77 lights on, i raised my heater higher to 80 which keeps tank at 76-76.5 no lights to about 76.5-77 with lights now.
I did change my light to a compact light now also which dont know if that helped runnign cooler over the old triple bulb flourescent i had. My lights are now closer to the tank because of the cnaopy and how i attached them to the canopy so they lift with the canopy. They are around 1-2" above the tank i have not noticed any difference in temp during lighting hours.

 

[zman1]

Originally Posted by ATrim55
My temp would raise also when i would run the lights during the day. But i had my tank at 74-75 and would reach 77 lights on, i raised my heater higher to 80 which keeps tank at 76-76.5 no lights to about 76.5-77 with lights now.
Nice job getting it tuned. After seeing your response to setting the heater temp to 80 in order to get it level out at 76-77 swing is good. However, I didn't one someone get the wrong impression. The only heaters or controllers that give a super tight on-off are the electronic controlled version and they have a +- degree tolerance. The other thermostat bimetal contacts flavor IME have a wide range between on-off-on and have never been anywhere close to the actual temp markings on the heater themselves ( I don't care what the manufactures claim), you need one or even possibly two other separate temp. gauges (thermometers) to compare the actual temp of the tank when adjusting these types of heaters (do not rely on the the heater temp setting). IIt's good even on the electronic to have a second temp guage to compare. Just thought I would put that out there..

 

[f14peter]

Originally Posted by zman1
The other thermostat bimetal contacts flavor IME have a wide range between on-off-on and have never been anywhere close to the actual temp markings on the heater themselves ( I don't care what the manufactures claim), you need one or even possibly two other separate temp. gauges (thermometers) to compare the actual temp of the tank when adjusting these types of heaters (do not rely on the the heater temp setting). IIt's good even on the electronic to have a second temp guage to compare. Just thought I would put that out there..
I hear ya! Although I set the two heaters in my tank/sump at 78 and they've pretty much maintained that, I have a couple of other heaters and they're not even close in regards to actual heating and the dial setting . . . some off by several degrees.
I've quickly learned to adjust the heaters by the thermometer(s). Just the other night I stayed up a couple of hours late just to dial-in and verify that the heater I put in our QT (To replace a heater that started going too hot) was keeping the temp steady and was going on/off regularly.

 

[farnorth]

There is about 3-4 inches between my lights and my tank. I also have a small light on 24/7 on my sump for the calurpa (don't think this probably changes much). I have 3 powerheads (70's) and the return from the sump pushes a lot of water. Seems to have adequate water movement.
I agree that the problem seems to be to keep the temp down when the lights come on.

 

[farnorth]

I am still having problems with this. Can anyone else make any suggestions, since my last post about my lights, etc?
thanks

 

[ratboy9]

If it's possible to raise the lights at all, that may help, but some cooling fans might do a better job to cool off the heat produced by the lights. Another idea is a cooler, but you might need to skip a couple of car payments to be able to afford one! Those buggers are freaking PRICEY!!!
Just some SIMPLE ideas!!!
ratboy9

 

[lion_crazz]

Have you tried using any cooling fans over the sump or the lights to blow some heat away and to cool the water?

 

[farnorth]

what kind of cooling fans have others use? Should I put them on a timer to come on at the same time as the lights....?

 

[lion_crazz]

You could do a timer if you wanted to. There are cooling fans in LFS', but you can also use a computer fan. It does not need to be anything special or specific.

 

[farnorth]

Anyone use fans and it has made their tank too cold? I am still a little confused of how to go about this as far as size, where to put the fans, etc.

 

[old_salt]

I keep my heater in my sump set at 79 degrees. I have two small fans mounted on the back of my aquarium and turn them on at the same time the metal halides come on. I leave them on until these lights go off and the actinics come on. I used double sided tape to mount the fans to the back edge of the aquarium. These fans are only about 3 inches square but they seem to do the job just fine. Hope this helps.

 

[lazypinoy]

Originally Posted by farnorth
I have a 90 gallon tank with a 30 gal sump. I have one 300 watt heater on the tank and a 48" aqualight pro. I leave my lights on for about 8 hours a day and then my temp goes up from 77-80 every day, then back to 77. With the lid on it fluctuates by about another degree. Any ideas how to help regulate my temp? Would another heater help or make it worse? I am stuck.
i think to avoid having ur temperature from jumping up and down, u should set ur heaters to the same temperature ur tank is at at the hotest part of the day. my tank tops off at 81 degrees mid day or when the lights are on full blast. so i set the heaters on 81 so its 81 all the time and not 81-76 everyday. i thinks its less stressful on fish on adjusting to one temp instead of being exposed to a variety of temps day and night. well i got this tip from the lfs.

 

[farnorth]

Thanks for the idea, but I thought it was not healthy for the fish, corals, etc to be above 76-78? If 81-82 is ok I will go that route.

 

[watson3]

Natural ocean water fluctuation is a few degrees..

 

[lazypinoy]

Originally Posted by farnorth
Thanks for the idea, but I thought it was not healthy for the fish, corals, etc to be above 76-78? If 81-82 is ok I will go that route.
oh yeah just dont go past 85 and beyond.