Metal Halide suggestion

tentacle

New Member
I have a 120 reef tank ( 48"). It houses a variety of items, including mushrooms, zoos, lps and sps. I currently have T5 lighting, a Current Nova extreme 8 X 54 watt system. I am thinking of upgrading to metal halide, and am considering either a Current system with 2 X 150 watt halide and 2 96 watt power compact actinics, or a Coral life 2X 150 with 2 130 Watt power compact actinic. I am wondering which system you might recommend? Also, my LFS is suggesting the 150 metal halides over 250's, he says the 250 might be too much for the mushrooms, and limit what I can keep to sps. What do you think?
Bill
 

scsinet

Active Member
Well I'm not sure I'd consider halide an upgrade from T5... or vice versa. Each has their advantages and disadvantages. From a performance perspective, both are similar.
The two systems you are eyeballing are a definite downgrade from your T5 setup. Halides are nice, but power compact is inefficient and antiquated. You will likely get less usable light output from these systems than you are from your T5.
As far as mushrooms are concerned... I'd go with the 250s. Your tank is deep enough that you can put mushrooms towards the bottom, and SPS towards the top. If it was an SPS only tank I'd suggest 400w halides. You can also choose halides with a higher color temperature (maybe 15K or so) to provide more coloration which should make your mushrooms look awesome.
 
M

markeo99

Guest
I hAVE 2X 250'S ON MY 4' 55 GAL AND I love it dont consider it overkill I would not recomend anything smaller on a 120
 

mojo46825

Member
I wold keep what you have. Wouldnt waste the money on those. Only upgrade you could do is ad individual reflectors. And there isnt room in that unit. You could put in new bulbs too. Maybe some ATI blue + for actinics and a mix of blue specials and aquablues. Maybe a aquasun bulb too would be a big improvment.
 
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markeo99

Guest
he is right t5's are a good setup and not as much heat involved
 

hurt

Active Member
Watt for Watt there is not a difference between T-5 and MH as far as heat generated from the bulbs from what I have read. There is a very long thread about this on -- right now. What makes the difference is having a MH fixture with 500W vs. a T-5 fixture with only 300W. Watts are Watts
I too run 2-250's on my 55g and wouldn't do it any other way. I disagree the 250's will limit what you want to keep, rather just the opposite. I used to have some shrooms in my tank before I went SPS only. I had some shrooms less than a foot from the top of my water line, and while I wouldn't say they were really happy with 720W on a 55, they certainly weren't dying. On the bottom of my tank the shrooms thrived.
 

tentacle

New Member
I do tend to agree that it is not necessarily an "upgrade". Do not get me wrong I find that this T5 puts out plenty of light, the tank is very bright, and all of my corals, sps included seem to be growing very well, as well as having visible growth on my crocea clam. But, it still seems that metal halide is by far the most popular choice fromn what I have read. Also, I have listened to talks that say metal halide is much healthier for some animals, crocea clam especially. I originally chose the T5 because of the less heat perception, and the cost savings, but with a canopy ( had to have one to have wife accept the tank), even with fans and extra vents, the tank was too hot and I had to get a chiller. I am having problems with the light, the moonlight led's are out, and one of the four flourescent ballasts is failing. When speaking with my LFS about getting work done under warranty, I thought about switching since I have the chiller anyway, and he is offering to get me either of the MH systems, brand new for a trade in of my used, in need of repair, T5's plus about $150. Since the MH's I mentioned retail for 300 to 400 more than the T5, I thought it was a good deal. I appreciate all of your input, keep it coming.
 

tentacle

New Member
By the way, I already found I have to keep the mushrooms low or shaded with the 432 watts of T5. That is why I was concerned about too much metal halide wattage. I am guessing though that I can work around it by keeping them low, shaded, or not directly under the MH.
 
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