Metal Halide ?

[imo]

Hello All, I was wondering about what all of you thought about using industrial metal halide ballasts and lights. I have found a sight that you can get 150 watt balasts for $40 and 150 watt bulbs for $29. I realize the there may be some quality issues with these cheaper setups, but could I use these ballasts and bulbs in a reaf setup. This would be great for those of us with limited budgets.
Here is a discription of the ballast:
>Watts: 150/175
>Brand: Advance
>Type: Metal Halide
>Voltage: 120-208-240-277
>Ansi Code: M57
>Part Number: 71A5570-001D
>Bulb Type: MH150/175 or MVR150/175
>No Minimum Order
>Priced Individually
>Warranty: 2 Years From Date on Ballast
>Ballast Replacement Kit With Dry Film Capacitor
Here is a description of the bulb:
ANSI M1107, 150 watt, Clear, ED-17, Metal Halide, (dia. 2 1/8", length 5 7/16"), Universal burning position, Medium Screw Base, Package Qty 12. (No minimum order, priced individually)
Could I just build a canopy and install these with a reflector and fans and realistically start to grow corals? This may have already been brought up and dismissed, but I thought i would inquire anyway. Thanks everyone.

 

[imo]

Looks like the bulb is rated at 4200k. I could definately go for the ballast and buy a more expensive bulb such as a 10000k rated bulb and would still be looking at just $110, versus $300 for an actual fixture sold for saltwater. Any one have anymore thoughts on this.

 

[imo]

They sell a 400 watt Iwasaki bulb rated at 6500k for $68. The 400 watt ballast is $42. What do you think of that setup? Would it be OK.

 

[krunk]

IMo a cheap ballast like that will burn a saki a very nasty yellow color, id go for the 20k Xm

 

[krishj39]

I agree with what everyone has said and want to add that the commercial ballast you are talking about will likely use much more electricity than the specialty ballasts used for aquariums. This means it will save you money in the beginning but cost more in the long run. Also, the ballast will likely run much hotter, which means more issues with cooling the room the ballast is in, and possibly the tank, if you have it close enough. My guess is that those ballasts are tar ballasts. You can find commercial ballasts that are electric ballasts, obviously they cost more than the tar, but still far less than if you get the ballast at a LFS. Electronic uses far electrically efficient, is much cooler, and your bulbs last much longer. I priced a 400w electric ballast at a local electronics and lighting store at aroune $80. I recommend getting at least an electric ballast, if not even a pulse ballast (even more efficient, and bulbs even last longer), which can also be aquired through the same commercial stores. I don't know the prices for pulse start ballasts though, they would have had to special order it at the the store I got it from, but my guess is somewhere around 100-120$ for the 400w. Keep doing research, I'm sure you can make this work. Let me know how it works out, I'm actually planning on doing the same thing sometime in the future. HTH

 

[imo]

I was thinking of maybe getting the 250 watt MH ballast and a Ushio 10,000k bulb. I would also include 2 23" 55 watt PC lights in actinic 03. Would I be able to keep LPS and SPS with this setup. I have a standard 55 gal tank.
I would have the following:
250 watts MH @ 10,000k
110 watt PC in Actinic 03
If this would not keep LPS and SPS I could always add another MH ballast and bulb but heat would then become a concern during the summer months.
Thanks for your help.

 

[jarvis]

250 watters should be fine for a 55 gal tank to keep everything.
MO on which bulb is best..
1 Iwasaki 6500s ran on MH ballast
2 Aqualinebusetech (sp?) 10k HQI
3 Ushio 10ks