Metal Halides....HERE WE COME !!

weatherman

Member
I have a large (tall) 150 gallon coral reef tank and am presently using compacts for lights (Corallites). However, I now have a $800 metal halide system to use. With 2-250 watt bulbs.
I have been told to 'introduce' these cautiously and perhaps leave the Halides on for perhaps an hour a day for a week.....then 2 hours the next week.....then ect.....
However, I was told that the T-5s can stay on for the duration. Can anyone help with any advice. The Metal Halides put out 10,000K each.
Thanks for a response.
 

reefforbrains

Active Member
use 3 or 4 layers of screen over the tank to act as a filter and run your lighting system as usual, remove a layer every few days or week untill lighting is penetrating at full strength. :)
 

weatherman

Member
What kind of screen? Where do you get it? What color? What's it made of? I am very unfamiliar with this method and don't know where to start. Won't the screen get hot........like VERY hot?
thanks.
 

reefforbrains

Active Member
common hardware screen, if you are having THAT much heat to burn screen then odds are its too much for your tank.
 

weatherman

Member
I just figured that Metal Halide lights put out enough heat to burn....like 250 watt bulbs for example. Even though they are protected by a glass shield, I would 'assume' you don't put the stuff next to the light itself.
I guess you put it below the light somewhere....
I also figure that's why some people get a 'chiller' for their tank since the lights MAY be putting out a lot of heat....
I'll hunt for the screen. But still unsure what type to get at the hardware store. Screening for your patio? Metal screening? Just don't know.....
 

reefforbrains

Active Member
correct on all assumptions, screen from HD comes in rolls for about 10 bucks, lay the screen across tank, raise light to normal position so heat doesnt bother it.
chillers are a case by case basis, shouldnt have to do with the lights.
Lights may need to be raised further off tank if heat is an issue. Its a trial and error kinda science
 

dwendler4

Member
what type of screen are you referring to? i am interested because i am also about to introduce a metal halide system... thanks
 

bigred

Member
Another thing you can do is run the MHs the normal time you run your lights but have them about 3' above the tank and then every week lower it a little. This way you bring it in slow and not burn your corals. You even do this when you change out the bulbs. This is what I do and I haven't had any problems. I have them about 3' and drop the lights about 6" a week until desired height is met.
 

weatherman

Member
Fantastic idea if you have the equipment to hoist up a 48", 40-60lb light! Not everyone is capable of doing this as mine simply sits on legs above the tank several inches.
Great way to introducing the lights though. My hats off to you....
 

azaintcold

Member
Weather man how long is your tank? If its six foot like mine you probably want to use 3 - 250 watt MH's. The only reason I say this is because they cover a 2x2 foot area. You said 'tall' so I', just wondering.
 

aztec reef

Active Member
weatherman said:
I have a large (tall) 150 gallon coral reef tank and am presently using compacts for lights (Corallites). However, I now have a $800 metal halide system to use. With 2-250 watt bulbs.
I have been told to 'introduce' these cautiously and perhaps leave the Halides on for perhaps an hour a day for a week.....then 2 hours the next week.....then ect.....
with 2-250 on a 150g i would start with 4hrs it should be fine then add an hour a day untill desire period.
 
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