Methods of Aiptasia Control
- Thread starter druluv
- Start date
druluv
Member
As usual, prevention is the best cure. Quarantining new live rock can be useful, and reacting promptly when the first Aiptasia is seen can save a lot of work.
There are many approaches to controlling Aiptasia once they have appeared in a tank. Fundamentally, some predation is required.
Animals that eat Aiptasia do exist. The most useful ones are:
1) Peppermint shrimp
2) Copperband butterfly fish
3) Racoon butterfly fish
4) Berghia verrucicornis
None of these predators are likely to be able to kill all the Aiptasia in a tank, so the pests will spread once again if the predator dies or is removed. Thus, it's best to consider these predators a treatment, but not necessarily a cure.
Alternatively, you can do some predation yourself. Killing all of the Aiptasia is unlikely, so the job never ends, however, keeping these pests at a tolerable level might be possible with some effort.
A number of off-the-shelf chemicals can kill Aiptasia:
1) sodium hydroxide (lye)
2) calcium hydroxide (kalk)
3) vinegar
4) hot water
5) hydrogen peroxide
Lemon juice has also been suggested, but the author suggests considering vinegar instead, as vinegar is a simpler compound with fewer issues to consider.
The Stop Aiptasia applicator, sold as a separate item, can be used to apply these chemicals. Feeding the Aiptasia just prior to dosing is also reported to help, as the anemones are less able to contract when filled with food.
Some commercial products are also available:
1) Aiptasia eXit
2) Joe's Juice
3) Stop Aiptasia
Although not intended for Aiptasia control, B-Ionic, a calcium-alkalinity supplementation product, has been used for this purpose.
Tropic Marin also produces Elimi-Aiptas, but this product was not available for testing.
Many of these chemicals and all of these products can be hazardous to or irritate your skin. The use of gloves, preferably arm-length, will help protect you when working with them. In fact, gloves are a good idea whenever working in a reef tank.
In addition, these approaches also leave organic residue (dead Aiptasia) in the tank, possibly producing an ammonia spike, so killing only a few anemones at a time is the safest approach. For larger tanks and repeated applications, some testing and monitoring of the tank should allow the aquarist to pick a suitable target number.
So how should one proceed. For a small infestation, any of the chemicals or commercial products can be used. As the number of Aiptasia grows, the biological predators can make more sense. Sadly, there is no perfect solution at this time, however, with some effort and attention, Aiptasia often can be kept under control.
There are many approaches to controlling Aiptasia once they have appeared in a tank. Fundamentally, some predation is required.
Animals that eat Aiptasia do exist. The most useful ones are:
1) Peppermint shrimp
2) Copperband butterfly fish
3) Racoon butterfly fish
4) Berghia verrucicornis
None of these predators are likely to be able to kill all the Aiptasia in a tank, so the pests will spread once again if the predator dies or is removed. Thus, it's best to consider these predators a treatment, but not necessarily a cure.
Alternatively, you can do some predation yourself. Killing all of the Aiptasia is unlikely, so the job never ends, however, keeping these pests at a tolerable level might be possible with some effort.
A number of off-the-shelf chemicals can kill Aiptasia:
1) sodium hydroxide (lye)
2) calcium hydroxide (kalk)
3) vinegar
4) hot water
5) hydrogen peroxide
Lemon juice has also been suggested, but the author suggests considering vinegar instead, as vinegar is a simpler compound with fewer issues to consider.
The Stop Aiptasia applicator, sold as a separate item, can be used to apply these chemicals. Feeding the Aiptasia just prior to dosing is also reported to help, as the anemones are less able to contract when filled with food.
Some commercial products are also available:
1) Aiptasia eXit
2) Joe's Juice
3) Stop Aiptasia
Although not intended for Aiptasia control, B-Ionic, a calcium-alkalinity supplementation product, has been used for this purpose.
Tropic Marin also produces Elimi-Aiptas, but this product was not available for testing.
Many of these chemicals and all of these products can be hazardous to or irritate your skin. The use of gloves, preferably arm-length, will help protect you when working with them. In fact, gloves are a good idea whenever working in a reef tank.
In addition, these approaches also leave organic residue (dead Aiptasia) in the tank, possibly producing an ammonia spike, so killing only a few anemones at a time is the safest approach. For larger tanks and repeated applications, some testing and monitoring of the tank should allow the aquarist to pick a suitable target number.
So how should one proceed. For a small infestation, any of the chemicals or commercial products can be used. As the number of Aiptasia grows, the biological predators can make more sense. Sadly, there is no perfect solution at this time, however, with some effort and attention, Aiptasia often can be kept under control.
druluv
Member
Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) often, but not always, consume Aiptasia, although they seem to prefer other foods. They also prey on small crustaceans, like copepods and amphipods, in the rock and sand. Sometimes they are general polyp (coelenterate) predators. In this case, polyps refers to a group of animals that includes corals, anemones, and various other organisms for which we pay money.
Sometimes camel shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis) are sold as peppermint shrimp, so be careful!Peppermint shrimp :happy:
Sometimes camel shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis) are sold as peppermint shrimp, so be careful!Peppermint shrimp :happy:
druluv
Member
Some copperband butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus) eat Aiptasia. Not all copperbands are enthusiastic about this food item, so success might require some time, or a few fish. Copperband butterflyfish can be very difficult to keep, and should be housed in an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. Some aquarists report better success with larger (180 gallons or more) tanks. They sometimes refuse to eat, and those that do may require live food, at least initially. In some cases, they die even if feeding.
These fish are not always reef-compatible, and might eat anemones, tube worms, and feather-dusters, and can pick on corals, snails, and clams. In addition, they are not always compatible with certain fishes, such as tangs.
These fish are not always reef-compatible, and might eat anemones, tube worms, and feather-dusters, and can pick on corals, snails, and clams. In addition, they are not always compatible with certain fishes, such as tangs.
druluv
Member
Racoon butterflyfish (Chaetodon lunula) are likely to eat Aiptasia, and are more reliable than copperband butterflyfish in this regard. In addition to Aiptasia, they are reported to consume majano anemones, another pest.
Racoon butterfly fish are also more dangerous to various reef animals, and should not be housed with sessile invertebrates such as corals and anemones, among others.
This fish is hardier than the copperband butterflyfish. It should be kept only in tanks 75 gallons in size or larger.
Racoon butterfly fish are also more dangerous to various reef animals, and should not be housed with sessile invertebrates such as corals and anemones, among others.
This fish is hardier than the copperband butterflyfish. It should be kept only in tanks 75 gallons in size or larger.
druluv
Member
Berghia verrucicornis are a nudibranch that eats only Aiptasia. They are reef-safe, but can be subject to predation by shrimp (including peppermint shrimp) and other creatures. Sometimes they will be killed by powerheads and the like, especially when first placed in the tank.
Once the Berghia have consumed all or most of the Aiptasia, they will starve to death. If any small Aiptasia remain, the pests will start reproducing and spreading. In the author's three attempts to use Berghia, they have failed to eliminate Aiptasia, although they have cleared the tank temporarily.
Berghiahave a short lifespan, but are hermaphroditic and can reproduce in reef tanks as long as enough Aiptasia remain for food.
Once the Berghia have consumed all or most of the Aiptasia, they will starve to death. If any small Aiptasia remain, the pests will start reproducing and spreading. In the author's three attempts to use Berghia, they have failed to eliminate Aiptasia, although they have cleared the tank temporarily.
Berghiahave a short lifespan, but are hermaphroditic and can reproduce in reef tanks as long as enough Aiptasia remain for food.
druluv
Member
Sodium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide (lye) can be dissolved into RO-DI water and used to kill Aiptasia, either by injection or by coating the anemone. The Red Devil brand, if available, seems to work well. It is sold as a drain cleaner.
When mixed with water, this chemical will release a lot of heat. For safety, mix small quantities, perhaps a few milliliters of water, in a heat-resistant container, and always add the sodium hydroxide to the water. Adding water to sodium hydroxide can cause the water to boil and spray a caustic solution onto you. If mixed in large quantities, the fumes can be dangerous!
Sodium hydroxide will damage or kill any organism it contacts, so be careful. Like calcium hydroxide, it can form blobs that circulate around the tank and cause destruction if they land on a coral or other organism. This chemical will raise the pH and add alkalinity to the tank, so start out with small amounts, perhaps a 1ml syringe, and watch your water parameters carefully and frequently.
Most importantly, this solution can be very dangerous to people! Avoid any contact with skin or any other part of you. The warnings on the Red Devil container are quite serious.
Kalk and pickling lime
Kalk and pickling lime are calcium hydroxide, which is used by some reef-keepers to supplement alkalinity and calcium. It can also be used as a caustic agent to destroy Aiptasia.
Either a paste or a strong solution can be made using RO-DI water. When the calcium hydroxide is mixed into the water, some heat will be released, so be warned! Either preparation then can be injected into or sprayed onto Aiptasia using a syringe.
Note that this solution will destroy any living organism it encounters, and blobs of the solution, if they form and circulate in the tank, can land on your prized coral, anemone, etc. Also, this approach will increase the pH of the tank and add calcium and alkalinity. All of these secondary effects can be dangerous. Start with a small amount of solution, perhaps 1ml syringe, inject only small portions, and watch your tank's water parameters carefully and frequently.
The kalk preparation is also dangerous to you. Be careful with it. Eye contact is the main danger here, but skin contact should be avoided as much as possible.
Quicklime (calcium oxide) can be used in the same manner, but it is much more dangerous. The combination of quicklime and water produces a lot of heat, so be sure to add the quicklime to the water, not the other way around, and be careful about skin and eye contact. Calcium hydroxide is likely the better choice. The tests for this article did not include quicklime.
Vinegar
Vinegar is acidic, and can be used to kill Aiptasia by injection. It seems to kill very small (1/4") Aiptasia by spraying, as well.
This chemical can lower the pH of your tank. Use small quantities, perhaps a 1ml syringe, inject small amounts, and monitor pH carefully.
Hot water
Hot water is reported to kill Aiptasia when injected. Some testing will be done in the future, but time limitations prevented any research for this report.
Hydrogen peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent, and might be effective against Aiptasia. It will burn any organism that it contacts, and will flow rapidly in the water column. The safest approach is likely injection, but caution is advised. Compared to the alternatives available, this chemical seems less useful, and thus hasn't been tested yet, so more guidance is not available.
Sodium hydroxide (lye) can be dissolved into RO-DI water and used to kill Aiptasia, either by injection or by coating the anemone. The Red Devil brand, if available, seems to work well. It is sold as a drain cleaner.
When mixed with water, this chemical will release a lot of heat. For safety, mix small quantities, perhaps a few milliliters of water, in a heat-resistant container, and always add the sodium hydroxide to the water. Adding water to sodium hydroxide can cause the water to boil and spray a caustic solution onto you. If mixed in large quantities, the fumes can be dangerous!
Sodium hydroxide will damage or kill any organism it contacts, so be careful. Like calcium hydroxide, it can form blobs that circulate around the tank and cause destruction if they land on a coral or other organism. This chemical will raise the pH and add alkalinity to the tank, so start out with small amounts, perhaps a 1ml syringe, and watch your water parameters carefully and frequently.
Most importantly, this solution can be very dangerous to people! Avoid any contact with skin or any other part of you. The warnings on the Red Devil container are quite serious.
Kalk and pickling lime
Kalk and pickling lime are calcium hydroxide, which is used by some reef-keepers to supplement alkalinity and calcium. It can also be used as a caustic agent to destroy Aiptasia.
Either a paste or a strong solution can be made using RO-DI water. When the calcium hydroxide is mixed into the water, some heat will be released, so be warned! Either preparation then can be injected into or sprayed onto Aiptasia using a syringe.
Note that this solution will destroy any living organism it encounters, and blobs of the solution, if they form and circulate in the tank, can land on your prized coral, anemone, etc. Also, this approach will increase the pH of the tank and add calcium and alkalinity. All of these secondary effects can be dangerous. Start with a small amount of solution, perhaps 1ml syringe, inject only small portions, and watch your tank's water parameters carefully and frequently.
The kalk preparation is also dangerous to you. Be careful with it. Eye contact is the main danger here, but skin contact should be avoided as much as possible.
Quicklime (calcium oxide) can be used in the same manner, but it is much more dangerous. The combination of quicklime and water produces a lot of heat, so be sure to add the quicklime to the water, not the other way around, and be careful about skin and eye contact. Calcium hydroxide is likely the better choice. The tests for this article did not include quicklime.
Vinegar
Vinegar is acidic, and can be used to kill Aiptasia by injection. It seems to kill very small (1/4") Aiptasia by spraying, as well.
This chemical can lower the pH of your tank. Use small quantities, perhaps a 1ml syringe, inject small amounts, and monitor pH carefully.
Hot water
Hot water is reported to kill Aiptasia when injected. Some testing will be done in the future, but time limitations prevented any research for this report.
Hydrogen peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent, and might be effective against Aiptasia. It will burn any organism that it contacts, and will flow rapidly in the water column. The safest approach is likely injection, but caution is advised. Compared to the alternatives available, this chemical seems less useful, and thus hasn't been tested yet, so more guidance is not available.
druluv
Member
Aiptasia eXit
Salifert's Aiptasia eXit a a high-pH solution that can be injected into or spread onto Aiptasia. It acts as a caustic agent, killing Aiptasia within 24 hours. According to the manufacturer, Aiptasia eXit contains an agent that causes the solution to solidify, thus making it more difficult for the anemone to expell the product.
Since this product has a high pH, only a small amount should be used at a time. It might also affect the alkalinity of the tank. Be sure to check both pH and alkalinity frequently to ensure the safety of your tank! First-time users should be very careful, and checking the tank after each injection is a good idea.
Joe's Juice
Joe's Juice is a caustic agent that can be fed to Aiptasia by spraying the product onto the mouth of the anemone. It did not damage Xenia or mushroom corals (Corallimorpharia) when sprayed onto them during tests, although it did kill Aiptasia. Nevertheless, care is suggested when using this product, since less robust corals might be damaged. Other anemones will consume this product, so be careful!
This product seems to act much like a calcium hydroxide (kalk or lime) slurry. It raises the pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels in a tank, and these parameters should be monitored carefully and frequently when applying this product, especially for first-time use.
Stop Aiptasia
Chem-Marin's Stop Aiptasia seems to be a pepper-based product, based on the web page and odor. It should be injected into Aiptasia, as the anemones seemed to survive being sprayed in tests. This product did not harm Xenia and mushroom corals (Corallimorpharia) during testing, but caution is still advised. Other animals might not be as robust.
This product will lower the pH of your tank. It should be used in small amounts, and the pH of your tank should be monitored carefully. Since Stop Aiptasia likely contains a wide range of organic chemicals, monitoring your tank carefully for a few days is likely a good idea.
Salifert's Aiptasia eXit a a high-pH solution that can be injected into or spread onto Aiptasia. It acts as a caustic agent, killing Aiptasia within 24 hours. According to the manufacturer, Aiptasia eXit contains an agent that causes the solution to solidify, thus making it more difficult for the anemone to expell the product.
Since this product has a high pH, only a small amount should be used at a time. It might also affect the alkalinity of the tank. Be sure to check both pH and alkalinity frequently to ensure the safety of your tank! First-time users should be very careful, and checking the tank after each injection is a good idea.
Joe's Juice
Joe's Juice is a caustic agent that can be fed to Aiptasia by spraying the product onto the mouth of the anemone. It did not damage Xenia or mushroom corals (Corallimorpharia) when sprayed onto them during tests, although it did kill Aiptasia. Nevertheless, care is suggested when using this product, since less robust corals might be damaged. Other anemones will consume this product, so be careful!
This product seems to act much like a calcium hydroxide (kalk or lime) slurry. It raises the pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels in a tank, and these parameters should be monitored carefully and frequently when applying this product, especially for first-time use.
Stop Aiptasia
Chem-Marin's Stop Aiptasia seems to be a pepper-based product, based on the web page and odor. It should be injected into Aiptasia, as the anemones seemed to survive being sprayed in tests. This product did not harm Xenia and mushroom corals (Corallimorpharia) during testing, but caution is still advised. Other animals might not be as robust.
This product will lower the pH of your tank. It should be used in small amounts, and the pH of your tank should be monitored carefully. Since Stop Aiptasia likely contains a wide range of organic chemicals, monitoring your tank carefully for a few days is likely a good idea.
dburr
Active Member
If you have a few apts, their is one more way to kill them that I like.
Use a coral that stings worse. Hydnophora and elegance corals. The first is easier to keep. It will sting and kill apts if they are close enough, so I might break off a frag if I see one poping out some where and place it right next to the apt.
Good info.
Use a coral that stings worse. Hydnophora and elegance corals. The first is easier to keep. It will sting and kill apts if they are close enough, so I might break off a frag if I see one poping out some where and place it right next to the apt.
Good info.
coastie55g
Member
well i just did the lemon juice trick.. looks like it kills them instantly.. or shortly after... there was on in my polyp field will it hurt the polyps any? any other things i should worry about since i added lemon juice to the tank water?