My 55 gallon adventure

[rlablan]

I would say so. If It were me, I would. Simply because carbon can leach, why place new in with old. I wouldn't clean all the media at once. I used the rings that came with the fluval and the sponges. I would clean 1/2 the sponge and 1/2 the ceramics at same time. I replace ALL the carbon, as needed.

 

[asp762]

OK, that makes sense. Thanks. I'm going to replace all the carbon now and do a 5 gallon water change for the hell of it.

 

[rlablan]

Well I mean it's probably not a huge thing at this stage, I don't know that you need a WC or to change the carbon... there is hardly any load on this tank and the carbon is probably fine. It's up to you but I wouldn't get crazy with the WCs. You said you just did one, I doubt there is anything leaching from that carbon that you need to get rid of, I would just change it all at the same time from now on.

 

[sweat90lx]

I have been doing a 5 gallon WC every week except last week. My bioload is very small but I want perfect the process.
Im still learning when to change media and carbon too. Im hoping to add more bioload tomorrow.

 

[asp762]

I just received my TDS meter in the mail and tested the RODI water I have had sitting in the 20 gallon Brute container for the past three days, and it is 40PPM.
My RODI unit is brand new.
My tap water is at 260 PPM.
This is very disappointing.
I will re-test newly made RODI water tomorrow. I can't believe my filter sucks that bad.
In other news, my crapclone 100 is actually doing its job.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by asp762 http:///t/392546/my-55-gallon-adventure/40#post_3489209
I just received my TDS meter in the mail and tested the RODI water I have had sitting in the 20 gallon Brute container for the past three days, and it is 40PPM.
My RODI unit is brand new.
My tap water is at 260 PPM.
This is very disappointing.
I will re-test newly made RODI water tomorrow. I can't believe my filter sucks that bad.
In other news, my crapclone 100 is actually doing its job.
The "crapclone" is working...so is your RO/DI unit. 40 from 260 is quite a bit of a clean up for a filter.
I was told by the Culligan man that the more you use your unit the lower the TDS will be....the pressure is higher if the unit is not used often, so when you finally do use it...particles are pushed thru the filter making the TDS number higher. If you use the water often then the pressure is reduced, and the less pressurized flow is the purest water.
I use my RO water for cooking, drinking, topping off two good sized tanks, and water changes...at last reading my TDS was 4...The reading was taken right after I had just filled my 37g WC tub. The Culligan man said he seldom finds a TDS at that low of a count, under 10 he considered it to be very good, but most folks have a TDS at 20 to 40. He then said that I must use the crap out of my unit...So very true.
So going by what the "water expert" told me.... your unit is working....try filling your tub, and take a reading from your units water, and see what the TDS number is afterwards. If it is indeed lower with use as he said...try emptying your units holding tank, and let the trickle fill a jug, and then empty it into the water changing tub. ...that's what I do so the tub has the purest water possible for water changes.
I use a rented unit from Culligan because I have super nasty well water and I was concerned I couldn't afford new filters all the time. Culligan takes care of that so I don't have to worry about it.

 

[asp762]

Thanks Flower, I'll give that a try.
Just to be clear the 20 gallon trash can with 40ppm RODI water should NOT be used for future water changes?
Or is that OK for now?

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by asp762 http:///t/392546/my-55-gallon-adventure/40#post_3489227
Thanks Flower, I'll give that a try.
Just to be clear the 20 gallon trash can with 40ppm RODI water should NOT be used for future water changes?
Or is that OK for now?
That is up to you... 40 TDS isn't very good, I would want at least under 10 when I had a reef, but it's still quite a bit better than tap water, and I'm not sure how it would affect the fancy SPS coral. We would all love ideal conditions but as long as your PO4 and NO3 (phosphate and nitrates) are as close to 0 as possible it isn't too bad....
The beauty of this site is the fact we have so many folks who can chime in with opinions and kind of brain storm on situations that come up...I personally would use the water, What we want out is the chemicals that tap water is treated in and get rid of PO4 and NO3, as long as you accomplish that I think you are good as gold.
If that's bad advice, then PLEASE... somebody chime in with better info.
Drain your holding tank and refill some jugs...test the TDS as it comes out and see if it improves, if it doesn't, maybe you need different filters or a better RO unit. I know folks on this site get a much better TDS reading than 40 from their unit.
LOL...to be honest, I ran a reef tank for 10 years and never even heard of TDS meters or refractometers. If the critters look healthy, and the corals are happy, and everything is growing....we are just stressing ourselves by looking at the numbers too close.

 

[sweatervest13]

40 ppm seems high. I would contact the manufacturer of the RO/DI unit and try to trouble shoot. Like Flower said, sometimes you can get a higher TDS when the unit is first used after being not used. I know that some units have a flush kit added (mine does), and I flush the unit for 2-5 minutes before each time I fill my storage container. Then I let the first minute of good water coming out of the output line go down the drain. I have had my unit for almost 1 1/2 years and probably need to replace my filter cartridges, BUT I am getting a TDS of like 6 going into the DI and 1 or 2 ppm coming out of the DI stage. I have some minor algae issues that are just popping up, So I am looking into replacing the filters on the RO/DI unit.
Me personally, I would not use the 40 ppm water in my tank. But I have a decent amount of SPS, if you are just doing FOWLR or a softies reef you could get away with it. Especially if it is just this one time. But I would definitely work on getting the unit down to single digits for TDS. You don't want to be constantly putting that not perfect water in the tank. IMHO it will eventually catch up with you.

 

[asp762]

I just replaced my the brass adapter (which caused a small leak and thus reducing pressure) that I was using to secure the 1/4" RODI tubing to the garden hose. I am using a plastic adapter specifically designed for the RODI 1/4" tubing to the garden hose. I began flushing some RODI water in a bucket (non food grade) and tested about a 2 gallons worth of water. The initial reading is 0PPM.
I am now concerned because that means impurities are possibly being introduced from my water storage container. I have a powerhead running at all times to keep the water circulating between water changes, and I keep a lid on it when it is not being used:

Here's my brand new RODI unit:

 

[sweatervest13]

The BRS RO/DI units are good ones. It does seem that the container is giving you the issues. If you are getting 0ppm out of the unit and then getting a higher number that could be it. Do you clean the PH's or pump that mixes the water?? That could be it as well. I don't mix my RO/DI water while it sits waiting to be used. So I am not sure.
What kind of container are you using?? It looks kinda like a Brute.

 

[asp762]

I'll clean the powerhead and leave it out until I need to mix the salt in. It's a 20 gallon brute.

 

[asp762]

I'm glad the SeaClone 100 is pulling some stuff out. I don't know how this compares to other skimmate, but it looks nasty enough to me.

 

[asp762]

A few weeks ago I received some corals from a friend of mine. One mushroom in particular disappeared almost as soon as it was placed in the tank. I finally found it, and it appears to have grown larger. I had to move tons of rock to get to the shroom. Once I finally did, I ended up aquascaping for over an hour while my fished observed my redecorating. I think I did a terrible job this time, but I am done messing with the rock formations.
Mushroom:

The new look:

Purple algae (coralline algae?):

 

[rlablan]

looks like coarline to me yay!
Mushrooms always come and go in my tanks. They are hard (for me) to keep pinned down. trying to glue those or whatever... they just let go and go off into some crevice. I find that they usually go into the rock, attach and then grow a little neck and peek out of the rock until they get big, and then they come out every day and then shrink at night. this is what they do in my tanks. I don't try to place them... they just move. Annoying.
As far as the water goes, I would use it. BUT I live in chandler and my mom is about 20 minutes away in Phoenix AZ. Our water is horrible here. It smells like a public pool, it's colored weird and it tastes awful. I have never sold so much bottled water as I did while working as a server in Phx.
My water out of the tap is around 280-300 depending on time of year. My moms is no less than 450... She bought a better unit than I did, 4 stage and better filters and she can only get her params down to 50-80 or so. Her tanks looks GREAT! she has 3, 2 SW, 1 fresh and they all use this same unit. She just changes the filter often. What else could she do?
As for me, I use the water until my meter says it's around 80-100. Then, I change the filters. I also do not keep any really hard to keep corals...
As far as I have seen, Flower is right. The more you use your unit, they better the water is. I have been told, just for drinking purposes (and for fish too), that you should empty out the full tank if it's been unused for more than 3 weeks. If you only use yours for water changes and you leave it in the tank for a long time without draining, I would drain the water and let it refill and use that water. Something about the bladder inside the RO reservoir tank can do something weird to the water if it's left there for too long. Also, when you put new filters in, they recommend filling the tank up and purging it a few times just to get the filters wet and sort of... "cleaned out", if that makes sense.
I also store my water without a powerhead. So does my mother. I just make sure to mix the water for a ful 24 hours before adding it to the tank, that way it's oxygen rich and it's not stagnant.

 

[rlablan]

Ps I like your new rock work. I love the arches.

 

[asp762]

Thanks rlablan!

 

[asp762]

Today I noticed condensation in both my heaters. I don't trust the heaters I currently have. I did a search on this site for a suitable heater; however, it appears that the recommended stealth heater 150 watts have been recalled. Any suggestions on heaters that don't break the bank?
Since I removed the heater, the temp dropped down to 78F. I was wondering why the tank never got down below 81F. It was set for 78F, but the heater was obviously not accurate.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by asp762 http:///t/392546/my-55-gallon-adventure/40#post_3489466
Today I noticed condensation in both my heaters. I don't trust the heaters I currently have. I did a search on this site for a suitable heater; however, it appears that the recommended stealth heater 150 watts have been recalled. Any suggestions on heaters that don't break the bank?
Since I removed the heater, the temp dropped down to 78F. I was wondering why the tank never got down below 81F. It was set for 78F, but the heater was obviously not accurate.
If you just put the heater in, set it in front of a power head or added new water you will have tiny bubbles all over it...but being submerged it should have condensation of water and plus some.

Was the heater light on all the time and overheating the tank? Otherwise it wouldn't even kick on if the tank is 81 degrees, the heater is not to blame if the tank is warm from power heads, Lights, or just plain no AC in hot weather. So being set at 78 degrees does not mean it isn't accurate if the tank is 81 degrees...if a heater malfunctions it usually cooks it more than 81 degrees and stops there, unless you set incorrectly and it is actually set at 81.
Anyway...if you really don't trust it you could get an inline heater, they don't go into the tank, but can be hooked up to return hoses on a canister filter or sump. The Hydor (the brand I have) in-line heater costs about $45.00 to $47.00 depending on the size you want.

 

[asp762]

Yeah that's what I mean. The one heater was almost never off. It stayed on even when I placed it on 70F. It's a 65 watt, and it didn't do any harm.
I keep the AC on in order to counter the heat from the two 250 watt Metal Halides and two T5s.
Since I removed the faulty heater, my temp has come down by a noticeable amount and stays at 77-78F.