My 55 gallon adventure

asp762

Member
I made a 10 gallon sump yesterday as a backup plan. It was an utter disaster with the silicone getting EVERYWHERE. LOL. I made a hell of a mess, and I made many mistakes. However, cutting my own glass was rather easy! I'll consider it a practice run. Now I know what I am doing and the next project will be MUCH better.
 

asp762

Member
I notice my lights allow my LPS to thrive, but zoas are having a much harder time withstanding the intensity even though they are at the bottom of the tank.
 

asp762

Member
The 10 gallon sump is completely functional.
I am considering upgrading to a 180 gallon tank sometime in the not so distant future.
 

rlablan

Active Member
hi there!
thoughts for you-
why not an unconventional tank size? Dont focus on the gallons so much as the dimensions.
i dunno what you have to work with but why not something that is more tall than long? or a tank that is more square than rectangular. If you could find something like two squares and use one for skimmer and then plumb it into the other then you could use the next one for return. Put baffles into it and then you would have plenty of room for all equipment. The one with skimmer could even have rubble in it and you could use that as a sort of fuge... Since you're into DIY, you can literally have anything.
Also, if you really want that 20l sump or bigger, why not cut a hole in the side of the stand? I've seen that done loads of times. you slide the sump in and then you replace the panel. Frame it out with some simple moulding, paint the whole thing to match the stand and then either use simple screws or go buy some big magnets from the HD and place them on tank and the "door" you've framed out with moulding. A lot of people will buy metal or heavy heavy plastic mesh and frame that out with moulding and paint and then put magnets on. It's a access panel that also allows heat to escape. They will sometimes put a very small clip in fan or something in to export heat. Keeps the tank much cooler and also helps with heat away from equipment.
If It were me, that is what I would do. You stand is just the standard black stand anyhow... If for some reason you busted it, which I really don't think you would, then you can also come by those super easy, atleast in my area, they are everywhere.
As far as your lights go, My mom has a very similiar light set up with hers. What she does is the MHs only blast for like 3 hours. The rest of the time it's just the T5s. Her tank is shallow and wide, so that is all she needs. She has a nice crisp bright white in there and a super blue to brighten colors. Your tank is really small. So that light is a lot. Corals will eventually love it, especially things like open brains or plate corals. Even acans would love to cook up top there. I would say have it be Blue light first (if you have separate switches) for just a few hours to wake up corals/fish, then the white light, then blast the MHs for like 2-3 hours, then go back to just t5s, then end with blue lights again. This light is not bad, it's just more than most corals are used to. I would add anything new right to the bottom and move it up every two days or so until you find that they are spreading out and enjoying the light. I have a 150 MH on a very tiny tank and ALL of my softies and brains and zoas... everything LOVE the light. The tank is only like 15 inches deep and like a foot wide. I have that light baking my tank. And everything is happy. Even my sun corals are out during the day hours, they are just in a little cave.
 

rlablan

Active Member
Also, if you want a refugium, try a HOB unit. I have one on the sump of my 60 gal and it works great. Filled with rubble and mud and it grows pods like nuts!!! I am also finding that I have way less algea in my display.... The HOB is definitely the way to go if you are limited on space, as I am. Super easy to set up too. All I had to do was lengthen the tube that attaches to the pump that fills the refugium. Simple enough. Just a trip to the hardward store for some rigid plastic tubing. This unit can also be moved quite easily if you decide to upgrade. Don't worry, the upgrade bug/ tank envy bug happens to us all. I mostly blame the forum. When I was a NOOB, I would see every one else's tank and be like "omg... it's so pretty... and big...and full of coral... and I only have T5HO and he has MHs and a chiller and so many cool fish.
I finally found that the big tanks are not for me. I am happy with something about a 65-70... and a few nanos. I have a few gigantic guys but the are a lot of work and so much more $$ for the equipment, water, electricity.... To each his own. I live through other peoples big tanks and then play with my 24, 60 and 8 :)
 

asp762

Member
Thanks for all the information rlablan, I truly appreciate it.
Holy hell, where to start?
I will most likely attempt the side cuttaway method of placing a larger sump tank into the stand, but for now, I'm sticking with what I have.
I have a section, albeit a very small section, for a fuge located in my small 10 gallon sump. It is up and running. I had to restrict the Mad drive 7 return pump because 1 inch PVC overflow doesn't exactly match the pump. This is something I expected; however, my overflow design has had some hiccups. I have been sucking air out of the elbow a few times already using my patented air check valve technology (joke).
My sump has a TON of pods in there. I don't know who invited them all to the party, but I think the two LR chunks I placed in there is what they perceived to be their humble abodes. You can see them in the following pic. Please disregard the silicone abomination adorning the walls of the tank. If one looks closely enough, you will see the little white thangs having what appears to be a small block party.

My MH have been reduced to only an hour and a half for the time being. I think my zoas need to acclimate considering I just put them through 3 days of darkness to clear up the remaining cyanobacteria (worked like a charm).
 

asp762

Member
Some more pics:
I added the Phoenix 14K MH 250 watt light, and I LOVE IT!

Red Hot Chilli Pepper posing like a BAWS.

Frogspawn

Power Supply is drilled into the stand. I have a white flourescent light ready to go when I am working in the stand. It rests between the bed and the stand:
I am still running the canister filter for some unknown reason... I am afraid of turning it off and causing a cycle.

Sump (Left side) where overflowing water comes in:

Here is the return side (Right side) where water flows out via Mag drive 7 return pump.
 

asp762

Member
Update:
I have had two heater fail me. Luckily, I had a semi-broken one that stay on 81F no matter what setting it's on.
I discovered the issue when I woke up at 2:30 AM to find a snail trying to get down my 1 inch PVC overflow pipe. As I was getting him out, I realized the water temp was COLD. I checked the temp and it was 74F. Luckily, no adverse effects resulted as far as I could tell. The fish never seemed to notice. I get the temp back up in a hurry, but now I have the issue of temperature fluctuation with a temporary, semi-functioning heater until my two 200 watt ebo jager heaters arrive.
The snail decided to go the fugitive route and jump down the pipe. I haven't seen him since. I will never get a snail again as long as I am running overflow pipes. I hate snails. He tried going in before, but quickly got himself out. Now I think he is stuck in there and there is no way in hell I can get him out. The good news is that the overflow is functioning just fine. Go figure.
 

rlablan

Active Member
The snail will get himself out or he will die. Either way, whatever.
If a snail can get down the pipe though, the bigger issue is that you have nothing covering the overflow. Fish will get down there and THAT WILL BE AN ISSUE. I suggest a small net cover, or make a plastic slatted "grill" and just silicon it into place... something. I would cover that ASAP.
Also, as far a temp goes. There is nothing wrong with 74. I don't think that is too cold. I personally think that 81 is really too high. The most important thing with temperature is that you can't have drastic swings. If the temperature does raise or drop... you should/must be gradually changing it. Don't just shove a heater in there and bring it up right away. Same with dropping the temp.
If your tank was mine, I would be keeping it as cool as possible, without a chiller and without going below 72 to 74... if your tank is staying there, I would just set the heater at 74 to stop temperature swings.
Personally, I let my tanks get a little colder in the winter, and a little warmer in summer. a) it's what the fish are used to, depending on what ocean but even oceans have "seasons". This can help with spawning in the home tank because the fish can feel the lunar cycle and helping them know there are changing seasons has been said to help or promote spawning. b) It helps my bills and saves money and c) I find that when my tanks were warmer, I was more prone to ich spots, and a lot of algae- particularly hair algae and film algae. Now that I have learned about temp and lowered my temps, I have had a lot more luck.
Good job on the sump. Hopefully from now on, you will not have algae in the tank. It should grow in the sump and if you have it, that is where you want it. Also, the pods probably like the sump because it's dark. All good things.
 

asp762

Member
Update:
I haven't lost a single fish. Everyone is thriving except for zoas. They are the only coral that have given me issues thus far.
This hobby is awesome. I am awesome.
 

rlablan

Active Member
I am glad to hear it!
I have a decently old system and I have trouble getting some of the simplest corals, like zoas, to thrive for me. Or they will grow like a weed and then just slowly melt away. Its annoying but all you can do is try to find whatever variable is making this happen and correct it.
Then, of course, once the issue is corrected, it will inevitably cause some other issue and then you will have to fix that one.
It's this hobby fun? hahah
 
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