My new 90 gallon tank build

bowfish

Member
OK Ive been working on this new tank stand and hood for about a month now.Just wanting to know what everyonr thinks.its my first attempt at building a stand and hood. I feel pretty good about it.
 

bowfish

Member
I am, working on the sump right now.Been having some trouble finding the right thickness lexan I need. Iquess I could use plexiglass but i remember someone telling me that lexan is better.
 
S

saxman

Guest
All you need is plain old sheet acrylic...not Lexan, not Plexiglass. Nothing in the sump is "structural" besides the walls, and the chances of impact damage are zero. Sure, Lexan is better if you want to stop bullets, but it's an expense you don't need.
I've built a lot of sumps with acrylic baffles and have never used anything other than 1/4" acrylic. In fact, we just built a new one for our 210 gal build.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
+1 Cast acrylic would be the plastic of choice for this application. Lexan (polycarbonate) is more flexible which gives it it's strength in terms of impact resistance would be the very reason it's frowned upon for use in a sump.
Edit: Your stand and canopy look very nice BTW.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/389019/my-new-90-gallon-tank-build#post_3434942
All you need is plain old sheet acrylic...not Lexan, not Plexiglass. Nothing in the sump is "structural" besides the walls, and the chances of impact damage are zero. Sure, Lexan is better if you want to stop bullets, but it's an expense you don't need.
I've built a lot of sumps with acrylic baffles and have never used anything other than 1/4" acrylic. In fact, we just built a new one for our 210 gal build.
Listen to the man!
 

bowfish

Member
Sorry Ive not updated in a while,but Ive had some illness in my family over the last few months and it has sort of put my build on hold. Things have calmed down a little now and im back at it. ive finished my sump and if i say so myself I did a pretty good job(I will post pictures later)works great and only had one leak I had to re-silicone ,so i feel pretty lucky.At the moment I am making my own rock using Portland cement and oyster shells and rock salt.I am using the 3-2-1 formula. Has anyone else used this to make there own rock and if so how did it turn out, also how long did you have to cure it to get the PH down to a proper level.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I tried making my own rock. I cured it for six months with daily water changes and then threw it away. Basically would have to tie nylon rope to it and throw it in a river and forget about it for a year before you can acid wash it the vinegar soak it and chlorox it and then soak it in more water for another month. Not worth the effort when you can get a box of base rock for cheap. Jmho.
 

bowfish

Member
Well Im going to give it a try with this batch Ive made up. Seems that using Portland cement wouldnt take long to get the PH down since that is what they use to line swimming pools with.Ihave a pool and one of the things that you dont want is high PH. So I will see.
 

bowfish

Member
Ok fair enough, but Ive done a little research and when cement drys it goes thru a chemical change and turns into calcium carbonate which is exactly what coral skeletons are made of.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
The presence of heavy metals in the clinker arises both from the natural raw materials and from the use of recycled by-products or alternative fuels. The high pH prevailing in the cement porewater (12.5 < pH < 13.5) limits the mobility of many heavy metals by decreasing their solubility and increasing their sorption onto the cement mineral phases. Nickel, zinc and lead are commonly found in cement in non-negligible concentrations. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement
There's also this link on Gypsum - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum, Gypsum is a common ingredient in Portland cement and commonly contains copper
as well, depending on the source.
While burnt lime (calcium carbonate) is the main ingredient in Portland cement, it will still
contain other elements (Nickel, Zinc, Copper, and lead) once it is cured. Cement does not "change into" calcium carbonate if it is primarily made of calcium carbonate and gypsum. Gypsum is what actually keeps the cement hardened together because it dissolves in water really easily... it's a hydrogeous sulfate... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfate_mineral once binded to calcium carbonate, it remains hardened and chemically bound.
I'm not trying to be mean at all!! I'm just trying to bring up some concerns and let you think deeply about it first. I don't care what you do... I just hope that you consider the information presented.
A box of dry base rock from like... Marco rocks goes for pretty cheap and I think they even have free delivery. A couple pieces of acrylic rods, zip ties and his special reef morter could give you any look and feel you would want. I'm not a spokesperson for the company - I'm just saying there are easier ways.
How are you curing your rock by the way? I think some people make cement frag plugs and put them in the back of their toilets... every time they flush, it's a water change! how bout that? lol
I'm curious if you could shoot me the link where you found that information?
 

redsea

Active Member
Sorry about your family.
I really like the stand and canopy, you did a very nice job! It looks very professional!
 

bowfish

Member

This is some of the rock Ive made so far.
http://www.saltwateraquarium101.com/building-a-concrete-saltwater-aquarium-structure/I used this link
This is for Type 1 white
Typical constituents of Portland cement
Cement chemists notation under CCN.




Cement



CCN



Mass %







Calcium oxide, CaO



C



61-67%







Silicon oxide, SiO[sub]2



S



19-23%







Aluminum oxide, Al[sub]2O[sub]3



A



2.5-6%







Ferric oxide, Fe2[/sub]O3[/sub]



F



0-6%







Sulfate



//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/math/2/3/0/2309d284aa943531c5192b97e0a55dfb.png



1.5-4.5%



Cement sets when mixed with water by way of a complex series of chemical reactions still only partly understood. The different constituents slowly crystallise and the interlocking of their crystals gives cement its strength. Carbon dioxide is slowly absorbed to convert the portlandite (Ca(OH)2[/sub]) into insoluble calcium carbonate. After the initial setting, immersion in warm water will speed up setting. In Portland cement, gypsum is added as a compound preventing

[hr]


 

bowfish

Member
To answer your question on how Im curing my rock. Ive placed it in a rubber made tube in fresh water with a heater and a recirculating pump ,also I am injecting carbon dioxoide gas into the water with a bubble stone to quiken the conversion of the cement into calcium carbonate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/389019/my-new-90-gallon-tank-build#post_3445875
The presence of heavy metals in the clinker arises both from the natural raw materials and from the use of recycled by-products or alternative fuels. The high pH prevailing in the cement porewater (12.5 < pH < 13.5) limits the mobility of many heavy metals by decreasing their solubility and increasing their sorption onto the cement mineral phases. Nickel, zinc and lead are commonly found in cement in non-negligible concentrations. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement
There's also this link on Gypsum - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum, Gypsum is a common ingredient in Portland cement and commonly contains copper
as well, depending on the source.
While burnt lime (calcium carbonate) is the main ingredient in Portland cement, it will still
contain other elements (Nickel, Zinc, Copper, and lead) once it is cured. Cement does not "change into" calcium carbonate if it is primarily made of calcium carbonate and gypsum. Gypsum is what actually keeps the cement hardened together because it dissolves in water really easily... it's a hydrogeous sulfate... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfate_mineral once binded to calcium carbonate, it remains hardened and chemically bound.
I'm not trying to be mean at all!! I'm just trying to bring up some concerns and let you think deeply about it first. I don't care what you do... I just hope that you consider the information presented.
A box of dry base rock from like... Marco rocks goes for pretty cheap and I think they even have free delivery. A couple pieces of acrylic rods, zip ties and his special reef morter could give you any look and feel you would want. I'm not a spokesperson for the company - I'm just saying there are easier ways.
How are you curing your rock by the way? I think some people make cement frag plugs and put them in the back of their toilets... every time they flush, it's a water change! how bout that? lol
I'm curious if you could shoot me the link where you found that information?
 
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