my new in wall 210 .. custom stand good enough? with pics

[ebaybrad]

I am in the process of building a 210 into a wall with room behind. I finally have the room to do it in my new house. I have attached pics of the DIY stand made with 4x4's and 3/4 plywood.
I just would like some commentary on it's soundness and structure. The base is built on 2x6's sitting on concrete foundation. There will be another 2x4 added to the front corners. The sides will also be covered in 3/4 plywood as is the inside of front. The rear will have the same with large cutouts from one piece for access. Although the rear plywood looks to overlap the 4x4's, the tank only comes to the end of the 4x4's.
I would love some comments or critisizms before i sheetrock and close it all up.
thanks a bunch



http://jpegbay.com/gallery/003111678-none.html#2

 

[snakeblitz33]

I would have framed it a bit differently, but I don't think what you did was completely wrong. I've had a 240 sitting on a lot less.

I would take the time to put a 2x4 top around it to support it between the columns, and have something for the plywood/sheetrock to grab onto. I'd put a sill/base plate down at the bottom on the front viewing area as well for your finish to grab on to.

I wouldn't have put the plywood face where you have it either - I would have left it open and had doors on the front to have immediate access to the sump from both sides. Still though, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

An option might be a kill switch in the front room - so that if you see something that goes completely haywire ... (like electricity arching across your tank from a broken heater) you can immediately kill the power from the front room.

I'd also install only GFCI outlets in the fish room, and if you are remodeling the fish room as well, I would put up a vapor barrier and have the room ventilated to the outside. I'd also, if at all possible, have an airconditioning vent leading into the fish room, or at the very least, have a small window unit air conditioner installed in the wall of the fish room for very hot days or emergencies.

I also can't tell from the pictures, but I hope that you installed a heavy header board on top to bear the load of the frame boards that you took out of the wall. A header would also keep the house from going out of square over time and putting unnecessary pressure on the tank.

Whatever you do, I recommend that you paint everything once you have all the frame work done... paint it all with a thick coat of latex, kilz, or whatever type of sealant or protectant that you prefer before you put the insulation in the front panel and finish off with the sheet rock.

Still though, reconsider not having doors in front... you may want it later. You never know. There's a lot of creative ways of keeping doors hidden or looking good - look at some creative ideas online.

 

[silverado61]

I would remove the plywood you used up against the 4x4's altogether and install louvered window shutters across the front. That would cover the opening, give you full access underneath, and offer ventilation between rooms. Get the unfinished ones. That way you can paint or stain them any way you want. And I agree with Snake that you need headers underneath the plywood sheets running between the posts and run joists from front to back. But go ahead and use 2x6's not 2x4's. Also, if you haven't already done so, I would put adhesive between the sheets of plywood. That way, you wouldn't have 2 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood, you would have 1 sheet of 1-1/2 inch plywood. With a system weighing roughly 2,000 lbs, it's always better to have too much support and not need it than need it and not have it. One more item, be careful with the sump underneath the plywood. Some companies still use use arsenic in their pressure treating process.

I know this is getting long winded but here's another thought. Since it looks like from the photos that your not a penny pincher as far as the tank room goes, that kill switch that Snake was talking about? How about putting a small breaker box in the wall to the left of the tank and tying everything into that on separate breakers? Not hard wired, come off the breaker box with several GFCI outlet lines leading to the tank room. If the breakers are labeled, you know which switch to flip. Then cover the breaker box with a cabinet door for esthetics's.

I also think a window unit would be overkill, hard to control and unsafe for the household. There's a reason they're called window units. Freon can be deadly if inhaled. A simple air duct with an adjustable vent cover would work best.

Judging by the doubled up studs on either side and the way you staggered your screws overhead you did install a header. If its not a bearing wall, 2x8's would have been more than enough. If it is a bearing wall, with that span, 1/2 ply sandwiched between 2x12's is never too much. Make sure you leave a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap between the header and the tank. Over time, that header will sag just a hair with weight, humidity and salt from splash.

And that, my friends, is just MY .02

 

[silverado61]

PS: If they're all ******** wall's, DO NOT insulate or use a vapor barrier. No insulation because it makes it easier to keep both rooms at the same temp. No vapor barrier because it'll just help trap moisture in the room from evaporating water from the system which would create a mold hazard for everybody. You want the wall's to be able to breath.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Good 0.02
You made some good points i didnt touch on. I was talking about cutting a space for a window unit - not free standing. I do recommend some type of ventilation though.

 

[silverado61]

Even a window unit needs to be vented to the outside of the house, not from one room to another.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Oh, that door doesn't lead to the outside? Wow, look at me making assumptions! Good catch.

 

[ebaybrad]

Thanks for all the suggestions and replies. They are appreciated. It is not a bearing wall. I went ahead and took the advice to install a fan to the outside as it is an outside wall. I don't want access from the front for aesthetic reasons. I removed thw top sheet of plywood as suggested and had it glued together before being screwed to the 4x4's. Not sure about the purpose of the 2x4 going around the 4x4's with 1.5 inches of plywood there. All the outlets are gfci. I am, however, a bit worried about all the moisture in the room. I did insulate the front wall bottom simply for sound deadening reasons.

I had planned on using kiln bathroom paint as suggested to paint the entire area inside.... Yes there is a header above.

I am very happy to get some more advice on this. Despite my "stand" appearing much much more solid than the manufacturer's stands. I am quite antst about adding water soon.

fingers crossed.

 

[geridoc]

Is there a basement below the tank (worried about the weight of the system, would hate to see it become a basement display, it looks to nice!)

 

[ebaybrad]

2x6 on concrete

 

[2quills]

Is there a 2x6 support under the floor directly under the 4x4 legs on the front side?

 

[ebaybrad]

There is a concrete sill under the 2x6 under the front 4x4's

 

[2quills]

Structurally, I wouldn't sweat it then. Rock n Roll!