My obsession
- Thread starter texasmetal
- Start date
trigger boy
Member
Wow thats realy cool were did you get him?
texasmetal
Active Member
Well she came from Florida but I can't say exactly who from.
clown4life
Member
That's really cool
texasmetal
Active Member
aqua_scaping
Member
I have just recieved cuttle eggs can you offer any advice? they are the dwarf ones but dunno what color.........yet
rebelprettyboy
Active Member
HOw long have u had it?
ianizaguirre
Member
how many gallons
texasmetal
Active Member
Originally Posted by Aqua_Scaping
http:///forum/post/2639048
I have just recieved cuttle eggs can you offer any advice? they are the dwarf ones but dunno what color.........yet
You mean Sepia bandensis?
What do you need to know?
You should keep them in a net breeder for the first few weeks until they grow large enough to keep tabs on. They need very high water quality (as do all things really.) You will have to feed them LIVE mysis for at least the first month. Then you MIGHT be able to get them to eat frozen mysis. After 2 months they should be eating LIVE shore shrimp. You might get them trained on frozen shore shrimp and krill eventually. They may never accept frozen food so be prepared to keep another tank with live food. They will grow to about 4-5 inches, and will need at least a 50 gallon tank with triple powered filtration. They will typically live for about 8 months to a year. If you have multiples it is likely they will reproduce and you don't have to worry about any inbreeding issues until several generations later. It would be wise to introduce new genes eventually though. They are sustainable otherwise.
What do you mean "what color"...?? They are brown with black mottled markings, and they will flash black and white, sometimes smooth, sometimes spikey. When they first hatch they'll be tan/white.
http:///forum/post/2639048
I have just recieved cuttle eggs can you offer any advice? they are the dwarf ones but dunno what color.........yet
You mean Sepia bandensis?
What do you need to know?
You should keep them in a net breeder for the first few weeks until they grow large enough to keep tabs on. They need very high water quality (as do all things really.) You will have to feed them LIVE mysis for at least the first month. Then you MIGHT be able to get them to eat frozen mysis. After 2 months they should be eating LIVE shore shrimp. You might get them trained on frozen shore shrimp and krill eventually. They may never accept frozen food so be prepared to keep another tank with live food. They will grow to about 4-5 inches, and will need at least a 50 gallon tank with triple powered filtration. They will typically live for about 8 months to a year. If you have multiples it is likely they will reproduce and you don't have to worry about any inbreeding issues until several generations later. It would be wise to introduce new genes eventually though. They are sustainable otherwise.
What do you mean "what color"...?? They are brown with black mottled markings, and they will flash black and white, sometimes smooth, sometimes spikey. When they first hatch they'll be tan/white.
texasmetal
Active Member
Originally Posted by rebelprettyboy
http:///forum/post/2639700
HOw long have u had it?
I've had her for 5 months on the 18th. She was the size of a grape when I got her. Smaller actually. Her mantle's the size of a lemon now, arms about 16 inches long. She can reach over halfway across the tank, which is 48" wide.
http:///forum/post/2639700
HOw long have u had it?
I've had her for 5 months on the 18th. She was the size of a grape when I got her. Smaller actually. Her mantle's the size of a lemon now, arms about 16 inches long. She can reach over halfway across the tank, which is 48" wide.
texasmetal
Active Member
texasmetal
Active Member
Originally Posted by GRabbitt
http:///forum/post/2639727
Hey hey, pleasant surprise when I clicked on this thread!
Great octo! Do you have any games you play with him/her yet?
We play tug-of-war with a skewer when I feed her sometimes. It's like trying to uproot a tree. She is amazingly strong. I've been allowing her to grab my fingers lately. I occasionally offer her a treat inside a container but the lid is too tight for her to get off. I have a small plastic test tube with a snap on lid and put krill inside it, and she can open it. As long as there is something inside she will play with it until she either opens it or I take it out.
She has a game of her own. It's called "Yank the Koralia off the glass". She loves playing with the powerhead, which sucks, because it stirs up sand and detritus. She can reach up inside the skimmer intake all the way into the bubble chamber. I'm kinda surprised she hasn't climbed into it yet. I need to cover it with screen.
http:///forum/post/2639727
Hey hey, pleasant surprise when I clicked on this thread!
Great octo! Do you have any games you play with him/her yet?
We play tug-of-war with a skewer when I feed her sometimes. It's like trying to uproot a tree. She is amazingly strong. I've been allowing her to grab my fingers lately. I occasionally offer her a treat inside a container but the lid is too tight for her to get off. I have a small plastic test tube with a snap on lid and put krill inside it, and she can open it. As long as there is something inside she will play with it until she either opens it or I take it out.
She has a game of her own. It's called "Yank the Koralia off the glass". She loves playing with the powerhead, which sucks, because it stirs up sand and detritus. She can reach up inside the skimmer intake all the way into the bubble chamber. I'm kinda surprised she hasn't climbed into it yet. I need to cover it with screen.
aqua_scaping
Member
Originally Posted by TexasMetal
http:///forum/post/2640065
You mean Sepia bandensis?
What do you need to know?
You should keep them in a net breeder for the first few weeks until they grow large enough to keep tabs on. They need very high water quality (as do all things really.) You will have to feed them LIVE mysis for at least the first month. Then you MIGHT be able to get them to eat frozen mysis. After 2 months they should be eating LIVE shore shrimp. You might get them trained on frozen shore shrimp and krill eventually. They may never accept frozen food so be prepared to keep another tank with live food. They will grow to about 4-5 inches, and will need at least a 50 gallon tank with triple powered filtration. They will typically live for about 8 months to a year. If you have multiples it is likely they will reproduce and you don't have to worry about any inbreeding issues until several generations later. It would be wise to introduce new genes eventually though. They are sustainable otherwise.
What do you mean "what color"...?? They are brown with black mottled markings, and they will flash black and white, sometimes smooth, sometimes spikey. When they first hatch they'll be tan/white.
well due to my newness to the trade i had returned them and decided to purchase them from paradox (from tonmo). I am number 2 on his list and will be purchasing the 1 month so i have more of a chance.
here is my tank/specs
38 gallon tall hex
100 gph protein skimmer (cover intake)
1 Nano Power
Normal lighting along with a red bulb (heard it makes them come out more?)
no lr as of now
I have a bag of ls mixed with home depot sand so i could make a deep sandbed
Biowheel
Coral going into it from my reef tank:
12 frillyt sponge frags
30 Shrooms
100 zoos
Gonna buy a gorgian for it
Cleaner crew (i know half pf it will dissapear )
Turbo/Nas snails
About 10 hermits that i hope it eats
And will it eat a tube worm or urchin?
Food i will feed it:
Live shrimp (mysis ghost brine)
I got a few cleaner clams if it like em
And my special carnivor frozen food (krill brine egg brine etc )
Now my question to you is will this setup be ok or no?
Also what type of plants and macro algea will it like? I am hoping in the future if all goes well i can breed em so thankyuo for your input.
http:///forum/post/2640065
You mean Sepia bandensis?
What do you need to know?
You should keep them in a net breeder for the first few weeks until they grow large enough to keep tabs on. They need very high water quality (as do all things really.) You will have to feed them LIVE mysis for at least the first month. Then you MIGHT be able to get them to eat frozen mysis. After 2 months they should be eating LIVE shore shrimp. You might get them trained on frozen shore shrimp and krill eventually. They may never accept frozen food so be prepared to keep another tank with live food. They will grow to about 4-5 inches, and will need at least a 50 gallon tank with triple powered filtration. They will typically live for about 8 months to a year. If you have multiples it is likely they will reproduce and you don't have to worry about any inbreeding issues until several generations later. It would be wise to introduce new genes eventually though. They are sustainable otherwise.
What do you mean "what color"...?? They are brown with black mottled markings, and they will flash black and white, sometimes smooth, sometimes spikey. When they first hatch they'll be tan/white.
well due to my newness to the trade i had returned them and decided to purchase them from paradox (from tonmo). I am number 2 on his list and will be purchasing the 1 month so i have more of a chance.
here is my tank/specs
38 gallon tall hex
100 gph protein skimmer (cover intake)
1 Nano Power
Normal lighting along with a red bulb (heard it makes them come out more?)
no lr as of now
I have a bag of ls mixed with home depot sand so i could make a deep sandbed
Biowheel
Coral going into it from my reef tank:
12 frillyt sponge frags
30 Shrooms
100 zoos
Gonna buy a gorgian for it
Cleaner crew (i know half pf it will dissapear )
Turbo/Nas snails
About 10 hermits that i hope it eats
And will it eat a tube worm or urchin?
Food i will feed it:
Live shrimp (mysis ghost brine)
I got a few cleaner clams if it like em
And my special carnivor frozen food (krill brine egg brine etc )
Now my question to you is will this setup be ok or no?
Also what type of plants and macro algea will it like? I am hoping in the future if all goes well i can breed em so thankyuo for your input.
aqua_scaping
Member
thankyou for your time
also will it eat live cleaner clams?
also will it eat live cleaner clams?
grabbitt
Active Member
Originally Posted by TexasMetal
http:///forum/post/2640071
She has a game of her own. It's called "Yank the Koralia off the glass".
http:///forum/post/2640071
She has a game of her own. It's called "Yank the Koralia off the glass".
texasmetal
Active Member
Originally Posted by Aqua_Scaping
http:///forum/post/2640244
well due to my newness to the trade i had returned them and decided to purchase them from paradox (from tonmo). I am number 2 on his list and will be purchasing the 1 month so i have more of a chance.
here is my tank/specs
38 gallon tall hex
100 gph protein skimmer (cover intake)
1 Nano Power
Normal lighting along with a red bulb (heard it makes them come out more?)
no lr as of now
I have a bag of ls mixed with home depot sand so i could make a deep sandbed
Biowheel
Coral going into it from my reef tank:
12 frillyt sponge frags
30 Shrooms
100 zoos
Gonna buy a gorgian for it
Cleaner crew (i know half pf it will dissapear )
Turbo/Nas snails
About 10 hermits that i hope it eats
And will it eat a tube worm or urchin?
Food i will feed it:
Live shrimp (mysis ghost brine)
I got a few cleaner clams if it like em
And my special carnivor frozen food (krill brine egg brine etc )
Now my question to you is will this setup be ok or no?
Also what type of plants and macro algea will it like? I am hoping in the future if all goes well i can breed em so thankyuo for your input.
Cuttles won't eat cleanup crews like octopuses will. Hermits and snails are safe because cuttles can't work them out of their shells. They aren't as dexterous as octos. Tube worms and urchins should be fine. If you get them to eating frozen stuff you might be able to feed them the cleaner clams if you break the shell open and expose the meat.
You won't need the red bulb for them. Typically this is used for dwarf octopuses because they are extremely nocturnal and it's the only way to view them because they can't see the red light. Dwarf cuttles will come out during the day after they become familiar with you and their environment.
I kinda assumed you were getting them from Paradox. I'm number one on his list at the moment... haha. Would have already had some but I was waiting on my stimulus money.
http:///forum/post/2640244
well due to my newness to the trade i had returned them and decided to purchase them from paradox (from tonmo). I am number 2 on his list and will be purchasing the 1 month so i have more of a chance.
here is my tank/specs
38 gallon tall hex
100 gph protein skimmer (cover intake)
1 Nano Power
Normal lighting along with a red bulb (heard it makes them come out more?)
no lr as of now
I have a bag of ls mixed with home depot sand so i could make a deep sandbed
Biowheel
Coral going into it from my reef tank:
12 frillyt sponge frags
30 Shrooms
100 zoos
Gonna buy a gorgian for it
Cleaner crew (i know half pf it will dissapear )
Turbo/Nas snails
About 10 hermits that i hope it eats
And will it eat a tube worm or urchin?
Food i will feed it:
Live shrimp (mysis ghost brine)
I got a few cleaner clams if it like em
And my special carnivor frozen food (krill brine egg brine etc )
Now my question to you is will this setup be ok or no?
Also what type of plants and macro algea will it like? I am hoping in the future if all goes well i can breed em so thankyuo for your input.
Cuttles won't eat cleanup crews like octopuses will. Hermits and snails are safe because cuttles can't work them out of their shells. They aren't as dexterous as octos. Tube worms and urchins should be fine. If you get them to eating frozen stuff you might be able to feed them the cleaner clams if you break the shell open and expose the meat.
You won't need the red bulb for them. Typically this is used for dwarf octopuses because they are extremely nocturnal and it's the only way to view them because they can't see the red light. Dwarf cuttles will come out during the day after they become familiar with you and their environment.
I kinda assumed you were getting them from Paradox. I'm number one on his list at the moment... haha. Would have already had some but I was waiting on my stimulus money.
texasmetal
Active Member
Originally Posted by GRabbitt
http:///forum/post/2641356
I'm curious about the tank she is in... Is there a latched lid on it? Have you ever caught her peekin outside the tank? I've read some crazy stories about their out-of-tank escapades.
I love octo's, but I still have a lot of learning to do before I get one myself.
I used half of the hinged glass lids for the back half of the top. Filled in the gaps around the HOB equipment with thick styrofoam pieces cut to fit. These are held in place by lots of duct tape. The front half of the top is covered with window screen and there is a strip of velcro across the front. The velcro is harsh to the touch and tends to slow her down when she does decide to come up for an out-of-tank exploration. The screen is also held on by duct tape. I'm working on fixing velcro to the screen so that I can securely seal it onto the tank and it won't look quite as crappy as the duct tape.
Whenever I am doing maintenance or feeding her, she will try to climb out. She knows when the top is open because she sees the tape dangling from the top. After having my hand in there a few times she knows exactly where to go too. She has flipped a few arms up and over the side and has pulled her entire mantle out of the water but that's as far as she has gotten. Gravity is cruel when you have no bones! I let her grab my fingers and pull her up as far as she will go but she is yet to actually come over the side.
Ideally I would have a sump with an internal overflow and the entire top would be screen but this tank isn't drilled and octo-proofing an external overflow is pretty tough.
http:///forum/post/2641356
I'm curious about the tank she is in... Is there a latched lid on it? Have you ever caught her peekin outside the tank? I've read some crazy stories about their out-of-tank escapades.
I love octo's, but I still have a lot of learning to do before I get one myself.
I used half of the hinged glass lids for the back half of the top. Filled in the gaps around the HOB equipment with thick styrofoam pieces cut to fit. These are held in place by lots of duct tape. The front half of the top is covered with window screen and there is a strip of velcro across the front. The velcro is harsh to the touch and tends to slow her down when she does decide to come up for an out-of-tank exploration. The screen is also held on by duct tape. I'm working on fixing velcro to the screen so that I can securely seal it onto the tank and it won't look quite as crappy as the duct tape.
Whenever I am doing maintenance or feeding her, she will try to climb out. She knows when the top is open because she sees the tape dangling from the top. After having my hand in there a few times she knows exactly where to go too. She has flipped a few arms up and over the side and has pulled her entire mantle out of the water but that's as far as she has gotten. Gravity is cruel when you have no bones! I let her grab my fingers and pull her up as far as she will go but she is yet to actually come over the side.
Ideally I would have a sump with an internal overflow and the entire top would be screen but this tank isn't drilled and octo-proofing an external overflow is pretty tough.