My PH is low!!!!!!

brokendeck

Active Member
My PH is low. I bought PH Buffer and was using it until I was told by a few people on here to stop using it. When I stopped using it my PH was good with a few water changes, but now its low. How do I keep my PH up without doing a water change every few days to keep it inbetween 8.0 and 8.3?
 

soulsigma

Member
What is the PH of mixing water before add your salt and what type of substrate are you using ? I am asking you this because something is causing your parameters to be out of balance.
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
Tell us more about your tank - how large, bioload, water params, substrate, feeding, etc. All of these could be factors in acidification of your water.
 

chardo

Member
My pH is also low, which is a new thing for me. Tank is 6 years old, and pH has been consistent 8.2 using just Oceanic salt, no additives. This past winter I switched to RO/DI from tap water, and now the pH has trended toward 7.8. Tank is 125 FOWLR, 140 lbs LR, aragonite base, AquaC EV-120 skimmer, no ammonia or nitrite, nitrate under 10. Current occupants only a yellow tang, singapore angel, and royal gramma. What should I do?
 

soulsigma

Member
Most high-quality syntheti salt mixes contain buffering compounds that will keep the pH of your water properly elevated. However, several factors can cause pH to drop in spite of the presences of these buffers for example:
1) The waste materials and the byproducts of the metabolic processes of various marine organisms tend to be highly acidic and will gradually lower pH over time if allowed to accumulate.
2) Decomposing food items and the acidic compounds produced during the nitrification cycle will also contribute to this pH-lowering trend.
It stands to to reason, then, that crashing pH levels can be a major problem in an an aquariuam that is overstocked and overfeed. So what can you do to counteract this trend? Obviously, the most important thing you can do is to avoid overstocking and overfeeding, but the next best things is to stay on top of those routine partial water changes! The more often you change the water, the less pronounced the swings in pH will be, even if you tend to overfeed on ocacasion or you fall victim to "one more pretty fish syndrome."

Other factors affecting pH are completely natural and have nothing to do with neglect or poor husbandry on the part of the the aquarist.
1) for instance, certain invertebrates utilize the same elements that buffer pH to build their calcareous shells and skeletons, which effectively reduces the buffering capacity of the water and, hence, lowers the pH.
2) Also, various marine algae, wether cultivated or unintententionally introduced, can contribute to pH fluctuations through their natural photosynthetic activity. Like all plants, algae utilize carbon dioxide and produce oxygen during the day. However, when night falls and the algae begin to produce carbon dioxide instead of oxygen. Since dioxide is acidie, the pH in the auqariuam will tend to drop slightly whenever the lights are turned off.
Again, water changes are the key to overcoming these problems. Frequent water changes will not only help to replenish the buffering agents that are routinely used up for shell and skeleton production by certain invertebrates, but they will also keep the dissolved nutrient level in the aquariuam low, thereby minimizing the proliferation of unwanted algae and discouraging the production of pH-lowering carbon dioxide at night.
 

soulsigma

Member
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3030542
My PH is low. I bought PH Buffer and was using it until I was told by a few people on here to stop using it. When I stopped using it my PH was good with a few water changes, but now its low. How do I keep my PH up without doing a water change every few days to keep it inbetween 8.0 and 8.3?
Certain elements and minerals that occur in sea water, such as calcium, iodine, strontium, and several other trace elements, are drawn from the water and utilized by various marine organisms for a wide range of biological processes. It stands to reason, then that these same elements in nearly the same concentrations should be provided for the fish or intertebrates in the marine quarium, in order to keep them in optimum health. the only difference is , in the closed system of the quariuam, the organisms gradually deplete these elements, but there is o natural means of replacing them. The processes of protein skimming and chemical filtration with activated carbon also remove them from the water. So, how do yo go about putting these vital elements back into the aquarium system once they're all used up?
In the fish-only aquarium, these elements are replaced in sufficient amounts whenever a partial water change is performed, provided a high-quality synthetic salt mix is used. However, in the mini-reef, the invertebrates tend to extract some of these elements from the water so rapidly that partial water changes cannot keep pace, and it may become necessary to replenish them with supplements. Hopes this helps
 

brokendeck

Active Member
my tank is a 75 gallon reef. I have ab 15 snails and 15 hermits. 2 clown fish. I dont mix my own saltwater, havent gotten my ro/di yet. Just buy it from my LFS. The water I buy from them is 8.2 when I test for PH. I feed my fish every 2 to 3 days. i have sand as well.
Any ideas what could be causing this? If you need more answers just ask away!
 

jemshores

Member
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3030542
My PH is low. I bought PH Buffer and was using it until I was told by a few people on here to stop using it. When I stopped using it my PH was good with a few water changes, but now its low. How do I keep my PH up without doing a water change every few days to keep it inbetween 8.0 and 8.3?
There is a post on here about low PH. I read it over the weekend, I was having the same issue too. Anyway, take a jar of your tank water outside, fan some fresh air over it (don't blow) for about 30 seconds. Then cap it, shake it, and test for PH. I think (hope) that it will read 8.3 or higher. What its saying is that there is not enough air flow over the tank and its bulding up nitrogen? Not sure but it is in these posts somewhere. Also, when I re-checked my tank (that read 7.8) I knew. I immediately ran a small fan over top of the tank and now keep the lid elevated at all times (have a Nano). I hope this works and helps you-worth a shot-it was my answer.
 

yosemite sam

Active Member
What are all your water parameters? Please include calcium, alk, mag, specific gravity, ammonia, nitrates, etc. Also, what time of the day are you measuring the PH?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3030971
my tank is a 75 gallon reef. I have ab 15 snails and 15 hermits. 2 clown fish. I dont mix my own saltwater, havent gotten my ro/di yet. Just buy it from my LFS. The water I buy from them is 8.2 when I test for PH. I feed my fish every 2 to 3 days. i have sand as well.
Any ideas what could be causing this? If you need more answers just ask away!
Do you add a power head to the water before it goes into your tank? If not then you are dumping water with little to no oxygen into an oxygen rich tank. That would most definitely cause a PH fluctuation. The part that you don't notice is the oxygen fluctuation. The water that you are adding is rich in carbon dioxide. You deplete the oxygen in the tank every time that you add that. Not by a little, by a lot. Enough to drop your PH. That can cause your animals to die, or become severely stressed. It is no joking manner. Please pick up a small power head. Add the water to a bucket and let the power head run over night in it.
 

brokendeck

Active Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/3031301
Do you add a power head to the water before it goes into your tank? If not then you are dumping water with little to no oxygen into an oxygen rich tank. That would most definitely cause a PH fluctuation. The part that you don't notice is the oxygen fluctuation. The water that you are adding is rich in carbon dioxide. You deplete the oxygen in the tank every time that you add that. Not by a little, by a lot. Enough to drop your PH. That can cause your animals to die, or become severely stressed. It is no joking manner. Please pick up a small power head. Add the water to a bucket and let the power head run over night in it.
I buy premixed saltwater from my LFS. Im done 2 water changes so far and havent had a powerhead mixing the water up. Ill buy a powerhead tomorrow and starting using that and let it run over night like you said. Ill see if tha helps as well.
 

brokendeck

Active Member
Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam
http:///forum/post/3031288
What are all your water parameters? Please include calcium, alk, mag, specific gravity, ammonia, nitrates, etc. Also, what time of the day are you measuring the PH?
I check my PH at 7 to 8 p.m. after my light has been on for awhile. I tested the water earlier. Heres what the test results were.
Nitrites 0
Nitrate 12.5
Ammonia 0
PH 7.7
Ill test the water with the other test I have and then ill post the test results up.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3031306
I buy premixed saltwater from my LFS. Im done 2 water changes so far and havent had a powerhead mixing the water up. Ill buy a powerhead tomorrow and starting using that and let it run over night like you said. Ill see if tha helps as well.
It will certainly help.
 

ryancw01

Member
You can control your pH by using a dKH buffer like Seachem Reef Builder. This is what I use and never have any pH issues.
Seachem Reef Builder™ raises carbonate alkalinity without immediately impacting on pH. With long term use there will be a tendency to stabilize at pH 8.3. Carbonates and calcium are essential to all coral growth. If either becomes deficient, coral growth will cease, followed by a rapid decline in coral health.
 

natclanwy

Active Member
Buffer does not control Ph, it raises alkilinity. It has a side effect of temporarily raising Ph but it does almost nothing to correct the issue that is causing the low Ph in the first place and regular use can stress your tank inhabitants due to the constantly flucuating Ph and cause you alklinity to go through the roof causing even more issues with maitaining your Ph.
You need to test your Calcium, Alk, and Magnesium and verify that they are all in the recomended ranges.
Calcium 380-450ppm
Alk 7-11dgk or 2.5-4 meg/L or 125-200ppm
Magnesium 1250-1350
If you maintain your water parameters in these ranges and have verified that you do not have buildup of CO2 by doing the mason jar test your Ph should be somewhere between 7.8 and 8.5 and ideally between 8.1-8.3. Regardless of what the actual Ph is its more important that it is stable and doesn't flucuate more than .2 so if you Ph is maintains between 7.8 and 8 your fine no need worry about it or do anything to change it.
 

brokendeck

Active Member
Originally Posted by natclanwy
http:///forum/post/3031639
Buffer does not control Ph, it raises alkilinity. It has a side effect of temporarily raising Ph but it does almost nothing to correct the issue that is causing the low Ph in the first place and regular use can stress your tank inhabitants due to the constantly flucuating Ph and cause you alklinity to go through the roof causing even more issues with maitaining your Ph.
You need to test your Calcium, Alk, and Magnesium and verify that they are all in the recomended ranges.
Calcium 380-450ppm
Alk 7-11dgk or 2.5-4 meg/L or 125-200ppm
Magnesium 1250-1350
If you maintain your water parameters in these ranges and have verified that you do not have buildup of CO2 by doing the mason jar test your Ph should be somewhere between 7.8 and 8.5 and ideally between 8.1-8.3. Regardless of what the actual Ph is its more important that it is stable and doesn't flucuate more than .2 so if you Ph is maintains between 7.8 and 8 your fine no need worry about it or do anything to change it.
I have a calcium test kit, but havent tested it yet. Im going to my LFS when I get off work at 3:45 and will buy a mag and alk test and post as soon as I test the water.
 

ryancw01

Member

Originally Posted by natclanwy
http:///forum/post/3031639
Buffer does not control Ph, it raises alkilinity. It has a side effect of temporarily raising Ph but it does almost nothing to correct the issue that is causing the low Ph in the first place and regular use can stress your tank inhabitants due to the constantly flucuating Ph and cause you alklinity to go through the roof causing even more issues with maitaining your Ph.
You need to test your Calcium, Alk, and Magnesium and verify that they are all in the recomended ranges.
Calcium 380-450ppm
Alk 7-11dgk or 2.5-4 meg/L or 125-200ppm
Magnesium 1250-1350
If you maintain your water parameters in these ranges and have verified that you do not have buildup of CO2 by doing the mason jar test your Ph should be somewhere between 7.8 and 8.5 and ideally between 8.1-8.3. Regardless of what the actual Ph is its more important that it is stable and doesn't flucuate more than .2 so if you Ph is maintains between 7.8 and 8 your fine no need worry about it or do anything to change it.
It does not
cause your alkalinity to go through the roof if used correctly. You would really have to screw up and add way too much in order to make it swing up by more than 1 dKH. Maybe if you had no idea how to use a measuring spoon I guess it could be dangerous? I use it regularly and it does stabilize the dKH at around 9 and my pH is always at 8.3 now that I use that product.
 

natclanwy

Active Member
If your regular use of Reef builder has not increased your alk then you have gotten luckey and have managed to dose it at the same rate it is being consumed in your tank. I did the calc on a 60g system and for every TSP you add it will increase your DKH by ~1 so it wouldn't be difficult to throw your alk way out of whack if you used a tsp twice per week to maintain Ph. If your alk consumption was .5 DKH per week and you were adding 2 dkh while trying to maintain Ph within a month your DKH will increase by 6 so within two months your tank will be a twice the recommended range.
 
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