my reef tank is acting up - maybe?

[carlos]

A few things are happening to my tank and I am having a hard time figuring out my problems. First let me start with some of the data. PH - 8.3; Calcium 410; Temp. 76.8; nitrates - 20; amonia and nitrites - 0; phosphate (tetra test kit) reads 1 mg/l, ( hagen test kit) reads 0. I am doing water changes weekly (30 - 40 gal)per change. This week a changed the water (30 gal. one day and another 30 gal. the next day for a total of 60 gal. this week. I used pure steril water ( supposedly a bit better than r.o. water). My readings coming out of my water before mixing the salt are excellent ( no nitrates or phophates). My Berlin skimmer works around the clock and is fully functional. Metal Halides and actinics do the light trick ( 12hrs. for actininc) and (4hrs. for halides) in a 12 hours span. I also have approx. 320 lbs. of purple lr in the tank which has done exceptionally well in the past year. I also have about 18 fish (they average about an inch to two inches in size), shrimps ( peppermints, fire), over 30 - 40 different corals and a cleaning crew. Although the bioload in my tank is expectedly higher than most tanks, I never had big issues with nitrates or phosphates being out of range unless, however, I interrupted my cleaning routine. Now here are my issues:
1. Green algea is taking over my purple rock.
2. Bubble algea is noticeable in two areas of my tanks.
3. Nitrate levels remains on the high side even after frequent water changes
4. Phosphates have been unsually high lately.
One lfs suggests for me to do more water changes, buy the salt from them ( fritz) and buy a new skimmer; the other lfs suggest that I do another water change; pull my bio balls out of the filter( incrementally of course), replace the halides, and get more emerald crabs or a kolb tang to attack the bubble algea.
The only thing that I have really done lately is to change their diet! More flakes and dry foods instead of frozen food ( brineshrimp, silversides, and regular shrimp) and lettuce only.
What do you think? Your feedback is very important and appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Carlos

 

[broomer5]

I'm guessing this is a pretty large tank.
What size is it ?
I would say that if the only thing you've changed lately is the diet, being more flakes fed now, this MAY be the cause. If your readings are rising, it could be a result of the food change. Most flake foods contain more phosphates than the manufacturer is really willing to state on their packaging. Getting two different phosphate measurements sounds odd, but that's not uncommon with using various test kits.
Not familiar with "pure steril" water. How and where do you get this water ?
Have you added any new live rock lately ?
What do you have as a substrate ?
Sounds like you know your tank very well.
Brian

 

[dad]

I'm with Broomer5. Really need to know the size of the tank. Also, what chems are you using? People do not realize that the more water changes(and the size)you do, the more chems you are taking out of the tank!
I may be totaly wrong about this and some one correct me if i'm out of line but: to large of water changes is just as bad as to little?
You sound like you have a good handle on your tank(as Broomer5 has said). Do you usually do these water changes in this amount?
How long has it been set up?
Without knowing more i would say; yes, get a few more emeralds,get rid of the bio-balls,and do not change your water changes from your usual routine.
do nothing drastic...
I'm sorry if i sound harsh, i just feel every one jumps to water changes as a solution to every problem. I have seen water changes that do more harm than good.
i would like to know more about your tank,,,sounds intersting.

 

[dad]

Did some resurch on the "pure steril" water.
Do not use it. Lacks the nutrients that is needed. Hope i helped in some way.

 

[carlos]

I am sorry I forgot to mention the size of my tank. But it is a 200 gal. Oceanic (I actually have two but the other is cycling at this time). As far as water changes go, I am not too crazy about making them as drastic as I have been in the past two weeks. The water changes came recommended by two very reputable lfs.
The halides are probably in need of replacement; I have had the tank for over a year now and have not replaces the halides at all. They are 14000K. I think I should go buy a new set. Any recommendations?
Yes, I added live rock (50 lbs.) about two months ago. It came from my other tank.
Some of you wanted to know how I get the water, I think I confused some of you and I apologize for it. My water is not pure sterile, it come from a a filtration system called kold sterile, from the makers of the poly filter. I have used this water from day one. First, I purchased the water from my lfs but she uses the same process. Then, for economics reason I decided to to purchase my own. With R.O. units,you only recover 15% of the water +- 3%, and with my system I get 100 % and the ph remains around 8.0. It is great! And the wate can be ued by anyone in my house for drinking cooking, etc. I really like the system.
I didn't really understand the question regarding the type of chemicals I am using. If you are referring to the elements I am puttig in the tank. It tend not to do much at all. But at any rate, I only use Kent products, for magnesium , stronium, TC, etc. Let me reiterate; I don't abuse these products because I don't really know of a good way of testing for their presence in the water.
Dad - you don't worry about being harsh - you are not. I prefer to hear the right message instead.
Thanks, for the info!
CL

 

[broomer5]

Carlos,
I'm not very experienced with MH lighting, but I think you should get new bulbs. I'll leave this topic to others here that use MH.
I do know that after a period of time, all bulbs need to be replaced. I think the green algae may be a result of the bulbs and your increase in nitrate/phosphates.
Did your other tank have bubble alage ?
You say you added the 50 lbs from the other tank to your 200 - bubble algae normally enters a tank through live rock.
30 gallon water change on a 200 is by no means excessive - 15%
Doing heavy water changes is a short term fix, that may help or make it worse.
I'd back off the flake food, feed more like you used to using more frozen meaty foods and veggies, get new MH bulbs, reduce your lighting duration during the day, try and clean off as many of the bubble algae rock by hand, and get a couple emerald crabs to assist.
Still wondering what your substrate consists of ???
Brian

 

[blue marlin]

Boomer - I have crushed coral (1/2 in. to 1 in.)in the bottom of the tank for aesthetic looks only. No LSB or plenum. I am not completely sold on this type of filtration system yet. Furthermore, I clean my crushed coral every time I do a water change!

 

[broomer5]

Do you go by Carlos or Carlito - 2 screen names gets confusing
Still thinking about your tank
Brian

 

[burnnspy]

If you dont add Kalkwasser I recommend you do so, it will help lower phosphates.
Flake foods usually contain phosphates.
I recommend MH bulb change out annually.
BurnNSpy

 

[carlos]

I am going to change my light bulbs this week. As far as the phosphate levels in my tank, I took a third sample to a lfs and the readings were 0. So this leads me to believe that results could be distorted whenever my tests were done in a plastic test tube. Every time I tested the phosphate levels in a plastic test tube the readings showed higher than normal. I don't know if I am making sense or not!
As far as the Kalwasser, I use it with the top off water. But I didn't know it helped to keep the level of phosphates down. How does the Kalwasser react with phosphate to make this possible. Thanks!