my tank setup and questions

nevada

Member
:notsure: Hello all,
Today I went to the LFS and looked around. I think I have decided on my tank setup but have a few more questions. This is what I am thinking of doing so far:
Setup:
1. 100g tank fish only ( I like to take vacations so I need something a buddy can look in on for me or use an auto-feeder and water top off setup while gone)
2. Layer of sand (the wal-mart stuff) for the bottom.
3. Live rock
4. feller fake corals (http://www.fellerstone.com/aquus/reefscenes/corals/)
5. protein skimmer (could use a recommendation)
Questions
1. I have a large trickle filter (wont fit under stand). It seems like a waste not to use it but it would limit the location I could set the tank up. Will live sand and live rock really support a fish only tank? If I add inverts down the road?
2. How much sand should I use in the bottom if I use the trickle filter? If I don’t?
3. I could use a recommendation for a protein skimmer (HOB and in sump)
4. Aquarium shops seem to be proud of their rock. What is a good source for rock? I was thinking of using base rock and adding some live rock and allow it to spread (does it work like that?).
5. Lighting – can’t afford to drop 700 to 1000 on MH’s. What type of lighting works but is in a lower price range? The store said PC would be good even for some inverts and corals. What is moon lighting?
6. What size pump should I look for if I go with the wet/dry filter? Is it better to have 2 in the sump in case one fails?
7. What type, flow rate, and number of power heads should I be looking for? I don’t plan on using an UG filter. Would not mind the wave action if possible.
8. I am sure I will have more!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
1. Yes, as long as you have enough LR, you can get away without any kind of trickle filter, but i'd suggest maybe selling it and getting a protein skimmer. That'll remove particles from your water. Might i recommend the aqua-c remora - the best out there!
2. either way it doesn't matter. IMO, you should have a 1-2" sandbed
3. see # 1.
4. great idea, yes it does work like that, and since base rock is like $1.99/lb, and LR is like $6-8/lb, it's financially smart too!
5. depends on what you want to do. You said you want it to be easy to maintain, so you're going to have fish only. Well in that case you only need normal florescent lights (these normally come with the tank, or you can get them for like a package deal). If you want some easy corals, you can get PC's and have mushrooms, polyps, and other soft corals.
6. you have to get a pump that will match the flow rate on the wet/dry intake. So i'm not sure about this. You should get an "overflow box", which sits on your tank, and the water drains from it to the sump. This is a great thing to have, because if the power fails, nothing will overflow, because the overflow box will only allow so much water to be taken from the main tank.
7. you should have about 15 - 20x's overturn. This means that for a 100 gallon tank, your water should be moving 1500 -2000gph. If your filter is 600 gph, that means you should have about 1400 gph in powerheads throughout your tank. However, since you're doing fish only, you can do about 10x's turnover.
8. bring it on!!!
 

aw2

Active Member
1. I have a large trickle filter (wont fit under stand). It seems like a waste not to use it but it would limit the location I could set the tank up. Will live sand and live rock really support a fish only tank? If I add inverts down the road?Trickle filters are not the best anyway...better to not even use it, as it will be a breeding ground for nitrates.
2. How much sand should I use in the bottom if I use the trickle filter? If I don’t?
Dont use the trickle filter. The sand depth depends on what fish you're thinking of keeping. Some fish require quite a deep sand bed, as they'll bury themselves while sleeping or when they feel threatened. Commonly, people go with something like 1.5".

3. I could use a recommendation for a protein skimmer (HOB and in sump)
Coralife Super Skimmers are fantastic. I own one of each model and have been extremely impressed with the quality and the price. If you have some extra money to spend, look into MRC skimmers (www.myreefcreations.com) or ASM skimmers.

4. Aquarium shops seem to be proud of their rock. What is a good source for rock? I was thinking of using base rock and adding some live rock and allow it to spread (does it work like that?).
That's the best idea. Pick up 100lb of base rock and maybe 20lb - 30lb or live rock. Eventually, the live rock will seed the base rock, making it "live". If you're buying from a local fish store, make sure you buy "cured" rock.

5. Lighting – can’t afford to drop 700 to 1000 on MH’s. What type of lighting works but is in a lower price range? The store said PC would be good even for some inverts and corals. What is moon lighting?
For fish only, you dont need any high wattage lighting. Regular florescent lighting will be just fine.

6. What size pump should I look for if I go with the wet/dry filter? Is it better to have 2 in the sump in case one fails?
You need to decide how much "turnover" you want in your tank, meaning how many time per hour you want the water to circulate. General rule of thumb is 10x turnover, in a fish only tank. So, you're going to want to look into a pump that's rated for 1000 gallons per hour or more.

7. What type, flow rate, and number of power heads should I be looking for? I don’t plan on using an UG filter. Would not mind the wave action if possible.
Powerheads are invaluable. Along with your return pump, it's good to have alot of random flow throughout the tank. My personal preference is for JBJ 1800 and 2100 powerheads. If you've got some extra $$$ to spend, go for Tunze or Seio powerheads.

8. I am sure I will have more!
Ask away!
 

aw2

Active Member
Looks like jdragunas posted at the exact same time...and, we're both on the same page. lol Good advice, jdragunas! lol
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
lol
i don't think trickle filters are bad, but they can be a nitrate trap, depending on the model. I have one with a protein skimmer before the filter, so it picks up any particles before it passes through the bio-balls... keeps it from becoming a nitrate trap...
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
oh yes, if you want enough LR to act as a filter, you need to have at least 150lbs, IMO, but more would be better! 200 lbs would be ideal!
 

nevada

Member
Thx! so i think i will go with 2 inchs of sand and the rock. I will add a skimmer as well. I will check out the 2 mentioned.
1. Place to get base rock? Fish stores only or is there a source like the depot or something? I know that some rock leeches unwanted things into the water.
2. Since I will be going without the trickle I will need to adjust my flow pattern in the tank. I should plan on some corals and inverts so I will need about 1500 per house water flow. What would you guys recommend as far as number of power heads? Is it better to have 4 or 5 and spread the wealth? Should some be submerged in the tank?
3. Should I add a mechanical filter like the magnum 350 or would a HOB model work ok?
This seems like it would be a pretty clean setup. The wife will be happy!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
1. i'd personally only get it from the fish stores... they have "fish safe" stuff... there's also formulas on here for making your own if you're interested... just do a search for DIY live rock...
2. in your size tank, i'd go with 5. you could have two at the back right of the tank, pointing left (one at the top, and one at the bottom), tow at the front left pointing right (one at the top and one at the bottom)... this will create a circular flow. And the last one would go at the top of one side, pointing toward the surface of the water, to create agitation... this will aerate the water, as well as the protein skimmer.
3. Your protein skimmer would be mechanical filtration, but i'd add some sort of HOB for chemical filtration. You could go with the emporer 400, which is perfect for your tank. It has biological, chemical, and mechanical filtration. It has a sponge pad to remove particles, activated carbon to remove chemicals, and a bio-wheel to remove ammonia and nitrites. This is perfect! Also, this particular brand has extra compartments so you can add extra carbon, or other filter media if needed in the future.
OH also, DO NOT EVER USE TAP WATER!!! this is the #1 cause of algae outbreaks in all fish aquariums!!! even if you use a "purifier" or a chemical additive that "removes minerals and chlorine", those only remove like 1/2 of the crap in tap water. You really need to use RO water (reverse osmosis). You can either buy it from walmart (some have a corrugated water machine that sells RO water at $0.33/gallon, or there's water in gallon jugs called "drinking water" with a green label and green cap., but this is like $0.64/gallon.), or you can get your own RO unit (they sell them on that famous auction site for not too pricey)... with your tank size, the RO unit would be the best bet, because you're going to have to buy 100 gallons of the walmart water, and you'll need to get water weekly for water changes and top offs... it'll be waaaayyy cheaper for you to get an RO unit. You can get one that can be installed in your sink in your kitchen, so you have RO water to drink, and for your fish tank.
 

oceanists

Active Member
jenn what is a trickle filter , , is it the basic hang on filter that comes with your setup , if so if i change that , will i spark a cycle >??>
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
trickle filter is just another word for a wet/dry filter

what are you wanting to change???
 

oceanists

Active Member
well i have the basic filter that came with my tank , i hangs on the back , has the thing that go into the water and sucks water to the filter , and then drops it back down by way of (Waterfall?) , i never understood the filter lingo maybe you could explain it to me ?
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
yours just sounds like a normal HOB power filter. Does it have a bio-wheel (it's a big wheel where the water returns to the tank that turns through the water...)? What size tank do you have again?
actually, can you start a new thread in the beginner forum? I'll answer there... i don't want to get kicked off for going off topic... and i don't want nevada to feel like he shouldn't post anymore, because this is his thread...
 

nevada

Member
np on the stalk. I have an R/O system for drinking water and will use that to fill the tank. The use of tap water could explain algae bloom I. had in my setup about 6 years ago. Did not seem to bug the fish but it was not very pleasing to look at. I have debated on selling my wet/dry. It is rather large 26L x 14w x 19 tall. It was my main filter for the tank before. If I use live rock and sand instead I would not need it I guess. Do you think it is worth keeping or just sell it and by a remora pro protein skimmer?
Thx again!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
i'd personally sell it, and the the remora!
and yes, tap water contains phosphates, which algae lives off of, so tap water is a big no no! lol
 
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