My tank setup

OCEANIC BOWFRONT REEF-READY COMBO 175 gal Bowfront (72.5 x 24.5 x 28.5)
Complete BioRocker w/ Sump
Prizm Pro Deluxe Skimmer DFS5
Tetra ( Air Pump ) Dw96-2
CRUSHED CORAL
60 LBS. OF LACE ROCK
ICECAP 430 BALLAST
URI 72 inch VHO Super Actinic Flourescent Light Bulb 160 watt
URI 72 inch VHO Actinic White Flourescent Light Bulb 160 watt
(2) Power Sweep 228 (270GPH) ZOO MED
CA-2200 Aqua Pump
Aqua Ultraviolet Sterilizers (40 Watt)
(2) Acura Heater (300 watt)
My questions are as follows...
1. should i use LR or stick with my lace rock? What are the advantages and disadvantages?
2. Should I use LS or CC? What are the advantages and dis advantages?
3. Do I need a calcium injector?
More to follow I am sure... Thanks for taking the time to help I am new to reef tanks....
 

aileena

Member
1) I would definetly use Live Rock. The biological filtration it performs is a must in my opinion. You should try to get 1lbs per gallon. You have reef or fish only? Remember that if you have live rock you cannot use any type of medications in the main tank or it will kill the rock. I think LR is also cool because of all the things that grow on it!
2) Clacium reactor? I have no idea? If I were you add KH and calcium buffer suppliments.
3) Sand or C.C ? Well this is debated always. Do research on this board and weigh the evidence for yourself. I only have a 29g so I use 4" of C.C and have never had a problem. It was brown for a while until I added a clean up crew. I do have to vacuum it once a month for stuff lying on the bottom. as far as my nitrates go I am always 10-15. I know little about sand beds but many advocate them. Like I said research yourself on this site
good luck
 
Thank you for the help. Looking at my setup which goes up on the 11th of september. is there anything you think i might need or any other suggestions.
 
Thanks I am learning alot about all this. I had a salt water tank years ago it was just fish back when filters were charcoal. so technology is gone rampent since then been running freshwater since then and sold the tank to start a salt water reef. LS and LR are a definate. MH lighting with my four coarllife 10000k lights and my ice cap, i still need more, i had forgotten to mention the hood that was with the tank already has four corallife 10000k bulbs in them. do i still need to add a MH? If so what is the recommandation? I have been told a couple of books and have read one with two more to go. but they haven't done a good job explaining the best solution. You guys have thanks. I will look into the calcium injector. Any suggestions there?
 

alf3482

Member
Here is some thoughts on lighting. Maybe this will help. I have more links to this very debated subject. But I have been ask by the administrators here not to post links to other sites. So if you would like more info e-mail me at: robert@reefaquariumguide.com and I will give you some good links. HTH
If you want to have a great looking reef tank, there are several factors involved. Lighting is probably one of your biggest decisions and one of the most complicated as well. There are several different ways to light a tank, advantages and disadvantages. Here is some basic information that may help, be sure to do some research and decide what works best for you.
Standard Florescent: Basic wattage fixtures like what comes with the tanks is standard florescent. They work great for fish only systems and even some types of reefs. If you use at least 2 quality bulbs, an AquaSun or 50/50 with a blue actinic, you can keep some mushrooms, soft corals, sponges, etc. You have to be very selective, but they can be used for the lower light corals.
VHO - Very High Output: VHO looks just like your regular standard bulbs, except with the use of special Electronic Ballasts, they can put out more wattage. An example, standard 48" bulb is 40 watts 48" VHO bulb is 110 watts. VHO has been around for many years and they have more VHO bulbs in more spectrums than any other type of lighting. This means you have a wide array of bulb choices. VHO is powerful enough to keep any coral or clam. It does not penetrate the water as well as halide, so it's best used for soft coral tanks up to 30" deep, hard coral tanks up to 24" and SPS and clams should be within 18" or less from the light. These are basic guidelines and can be broken. We personally feel VHO has the nicest look with Soft corals and LPS corals, and believe these types of corals thrive the best under VHO.
Compact Florescent: Also referred as Power Compacts. This is a florescent technology, except the bulb is powered from one end, not end to end like VHO. It's also a smaller U tube type design. Compacts entered the market many years ago, and on paper are superior to VHO. They have more watt for watt output. Example: 55watt Compact bulb is roughly as bright as a 95 watt VHO tube. Their lower price (on most sizes), more watt output, and compact size has made them extremely popular. The biggest drawback is the 7100K Actinic blue is not a true actinic. The lamps do not have the same glow VHO puts off, so it's a different look and may also contribute to algae problems. Until recently they only had a 6700K daylight bulb. So your bulb choices are much more limited, also limited to one manufacture for the PFO/CSL brand compacts. They recently released a 8800K crisp white and a Smart lamp which is half blue/half white. So they are making improvements in this technology everyday, a new 10K bulb is expected in August. We feel compacts work great for soft corals, LPS, and even SPS and clams. 55watt is usually great for up to 24" deep, 96watt for deeper tanks, or more clam/sps tanks. For a smaller tank, 36" length or less, it's really tough to beat compact's price.
Metal Halide: This is your most powerful form of lighting. A halide bulb creates an arc of light so bright that it can spread up to a 36" wide tank. It's the closest form of lighting compared to the sun. You can use halide for soft corals, lps, sps and clams. The most common use is for those wanting more sps and clams. Some guidelines are 1 halide bulb for every 2 feet of tank, up to 3 feet. 175watt up to 24" deep, 250watt up to 36" deep, 400watt for deeper tanks. It's very common for hard core reefers to use 400watt on even a small 30 gallon tank. When it comes to sps and clams, they can handle and thrive under intense lighting. With halide, you also need to consider the Kelvin, which is the color temp. 5500K warm white, 6500K warm white, 10K Crisp white to blue tint, 12K-20K blue tint. For mixed reefs, we recommend the 10K bulbs, for sps and clams, we recommend the 65K's. If you go 55-65K, we highly recommend VHO or PC actinics, they will improve the overall color and look of the tank.
 
The icecap is a light fixture i built but the tank has its own lighting fixture 2 48" dual light fixtures. which will have 2 coarl life 10000k 50/50 and two 10000k atunic. sorry about the confusion thanks for all the help
 
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