Need advice on R/O units...thanks

I've finally decided to stop buying bottled water and get a r/o unit. There are so many different kinds and I don't know wich to purchase. I will probably go with a model that does 35-50 gallons per day. I would like to know if the faucet has to run 24 hrs to achieve the 35-50 gallons/day? If it does I would get the bigger model of 100 to go faster and just make less r/o water.
Pressure seems to be a factor, so how do you know if you need a booster pump or not? I have not read what the minimum pressure is needed for the r/o unit. A house is prob. 35 psi..
Also, the hardess will shorten the life of the membranes, but at what level? I have a gh kit to test if someone has number to reference what is go or bad.
The teo models I have in mind are the Kent Hi-s and the Seachem Pinnacle series. I could use some help. Thanks.
 

rwp1202

Member
I own the Hi-S 60 gpd unit and it works great. I have run about 1200 gallons of water through it an the TDS are still at zero. I would beware of some of the lower end units. My neighbor bought one really cheap and he is already seeing the water quality deteriorate after about 400 gallons.
I would recommend going to the 60 GPD unit since you will probably never really get 60 GPD. I get about 40 from mine.
You can avoid the kitchen sink connection if you can hook up to the cold water for your washer. Just buy a Y connector for a garden hose, and a little brass valve to turn your unit on and off and you will be all set. It is nice because you can direct your waste water right down the same drain you washer uses.
As for the booster pump I recommend getting one. You will not see anywhere near rated output without being at the recommended pressure for your membrane. (Usually 60 - 80 psi).
Hope this helps.
 
J

jrmc42

Guest
I also have a Kent Hi-S 60 gpd R/O/Di Maxxima. It kicks butt! Been using it for 5 years, and no problems. You do need to replace the pre-filters regularly. Highly recommended.
 
rwp1202,
Is your model the maxxima 60 hi-s or deluxe maximma 60 Hi-s?
jrmc42,
What do you consider a regular pre-filter change? How many gallons? Aren't the filter like $60.00 everytime you replace? I saw a Aquatec RO pump for $200.00 is this what you use?
The pure-flow II comes with a ro pump....has anyone used or heard of this unit? It costs $260.00 total
 

nas19320

Active Member
Check out airwaterice. They have great customer service and many of the reefers here have a unit from airwaterice. IMO Kent is overpriced because you pay for the name. Go with a 75gpd membrane and you'll extend the life of your DI over the 100gpd.
 

nas19320

Active Member
The DI portion of an RO/DI unit removes the final TDS after the RO unit, the higher the TDS the quicker the DI resin is exhausted. If you decide to purchase a unit from airwaterice then you may want to look at the 75gpd membrane instead of the 100gpd. The 75gpd membrane has a 98% rejection rate as opposed to the 90% rejection rate of the 100gpd membrane. This means that the 75gpd membrane will get rid of far more of the TDS than the 100gpd membrane and so the DI will last much longer. Just something to consider. HTH
 
nas19320,
What model are you using? i like the typhoon and typhoon III. I think the 75 gpd membrane comes standard. Do you need a pressure tank with these this unit. I'm not sure if people use the tank instead of a booster pump?
 

rwp1202

Member

Originally posted by beginnerMatt
rwp1202,
Is your model the maxxima 60 hi-s or deluxe maximma 60 Hi-s?

I don't know the difference between the regular and the deluxe. I can't help you there.
The one micron sediment, and 1/2 micron carbon block should be changed every 500 - 600 gallons (Double check your directions for guidelines here). These two filters are very cheap and are readily available from many online drygood sources. I don't want to mention any competitors by name. The DI stage is the most expensive cartridge in the set, but should last longer. (1000's of gallons). I think Nas19320 has the right idea with his suggestion above.
HTH
 

nas19320

Active Member

Originally posted by beginnerMatt
nas19320,
What model are you using? i like the typhoon and typhoon III. I think the 75 gpd membrane comes standard. Do you need a pressure tank with these this unit. I'm not sure if people use the tank instead of a booster pump?

I'm using the model without all the add-ons, no RO membrane flush, no RO Bypass and no pressure gauge, The Typhoon. Most people go for the Typhoon III with the add-on features but at the time the unit was more expensive then what it is now. If you get a reefkeeper unit then the pure water line can run right into a trashcan or bucket and you can use a float valve with it if you want. If your planning on using the water for drinking also then you may want a unit with a storage tank. I let my water run into a rubbermaid trashcan. The booster pump is for people who may have low water pressure. Being on a deep well I thought I may have a problem with my water pressure but that doesn't seem to be the case as I have had my unit almost 2 years.
 
nas19320,
The reason I said pressure tank was to replace the booster pump. I never thought of it being for drinking water. My mistake. I have town. This summer my well pump broke down and I couldn't water the grass, so I hooked the irrigation system up to my house water and it worked fine. I have a large yard. So you think I may not need one? If you don't mind could you tell me the minimum psi for the typhoon. Thanks again.
 

nas19320

Active Member
Direct from the airwaterice site:
All RO membranes output is subject to three things, your water quality, water pressure and water temperature. The membrane is rated at 77degress and 50 PSI Every pound of pressure less than 50 subtract 2% of the output. Example. 40 psi subtract 20% of the 75 for 60 gpd Temperature subtract 1.4 % per degree lower 68 is 9. So subtract 12.6 % from the 60 gpd = 52.44 or 2.18 GPH
As far as the minimum I'm not sure but the above formula should give you an idea of if it will work or not for your set-up.
 
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