Need Answers For MY Tank ASAP!
- Thread starter shrimp134
- Start date
gregvabch
Active Member
yeah, amm and trites at zero, snails ok, RO/DI for topping off/water changes, you got it.
NACL- in a perfectly controlled environment, all corals would live under metal halide lights supplemented with power compact, VHO, or NO actinic lighting. among a lot of other things as well.
NACL- in a perfectly controlled environment, all corals would live under metal halide lights supplemented with power compact, VHO, or NO actinic lighting. among a lot of other things as well.
nacl-man
Member
Originally posted by shrimp134
So are bb ok...lol come on someone...and for h2o changes do i just empty some of the top water ..like 1 gallon and replace it with 1g of Ro/Di water?
dunno about the BB's but you've got the right idea about the water changes... you will be adding salt mix to that RO/DI water right? Salt does not evaporate with the water, your top off water will need to be pure RO/DI and your WC's with pre-mixed areated SW.
doublezero
Member
What was your salinity reading before you removed 0.7 ga and after you added 1 ga of R/O water???
IMO it should have dropped because you removed saltwater and didn't replace it with saltwater thereby dilutiing your system....
Top-offs (replenishing water that has evaporated) are done with R/O water and routine water changes are done with mixed fresh saltwater that closely matches your tank readings for temp and salinity...IMO
00
IMO it should have dropped because you removed saltwater and didn't replace it with saltwater thereby dilutiing your system....
Top-offs (replenishing water that has evaporated) are done with R/O water and routine water changes are done with mixed fresh saltwater that closely matches your tank readings for temp and salinity...IMO
00
doublezero
Member
Sorry Na-CL Man for restating what you have already posted...
dburr
Active Member
i'm sure somebody is gonna swoop in and stomp all over me
That made me laugh,LOL.
O ok, I get it now, what is considered a water change? If it is .7g...should I just get home and dump in a little salt into my tank?
Never, never and never dump salt in your tank. It will only erritate the gills of your fish and some other things you don't want to do.
Take out some water, and add the same amount of salt water. It should be the same SG and made 24 hours in advance.
Top off is to keep the SG the same in the display. A good thing to do is mark you display (or if you have a sump) with a marker at the water line. Keep it filled to this line with your top off daily. This will keep your SG the same.
BumbleBee's
Never had them, so I can't comment.
with metal halide lights, the wattage is used for water penetration. the deeper your tank, the higher the wattage you should go. for a 29 gallon, a 175W metal halide is fine. the kelvin is basically the spectrum of light, 10,000K is middle of the road. for acro's and what not you need a kelvin rating in the 6,000's, which is pretty much like looking into the sun, where as 20,000K is very blue, simulating what's left of the suns rays in deeper water.
This is almost right. Acro's don't absolutly need 6500K. It's more prefrance (sp) of you. I run 10K's w/32 w atinics. I like it and it does well for me. I know someone who runs 20K. His tank rocks:happy: also.
At 3ft below the water surface their is 65% of red and yellow spectrum. At 30 ft it mostly blue and green. Corals are found anywhere inbetween and deeper.
metal halides are not measured in watts per gallon
I think all lights are bad to watts per gallon rule. Watts is how much energy, it does say how effiecant (sp) the bulb is. BTW, MH, IMO is the most effiecant.
I'm done,:nervous: Dan
O ok, I get it now, what is considered a water change? If it is .7g...should I just get home and dump in a little salt into my tank?
Never, never and never dump salt in your tank. It will only erritate the gills of your fish and some other things you don't want to do.
Take out some water, and add the same amount of salt water. It should be the same SG and made 24 hours in advance.
Top off is to keep the SG the same in the display. A good thing to do is mark you display (or if you have a sump) with a marker at the water line. Keep it filled to this line with your top off daily. This will keep your SG the same.
BumbleBee's
Never had them, so I can't comment.
with metal halide lights, the wattage is used for water penetration. the deeper your tank, the higher the wattage you should go. for a 29 gallon, a 175W metal halide is fine. the kelvin is basically the spectrum of light, 10,000K is middle of the road. for acro's and what not you need a kelvin rating in the 6,000's, which is pretty much like looking into the sun, where as 20,000K is very blue, simulating what's left of the suns rays in deeper water.
This is almost right. Acro's don't absolutly need 6500K. It's more prefrance (sp) of you. I run 10K's w/32 w atinics. I like it and it does well for me. I know someone who runs 20K. His tank rocks:happy: also.
At 3ft below the water surface their is 65% of red and yellow spectrum. At 30 ft it mostly blue and green. Corals are found anywhere inbetween and deeper.
metal halides are not measured in watts per gallon
I think all lights are bad to watts per gallon rule. Watts is how much energy, it does say how effiecant (sp) the bulb is. BTW, MH, IMO is the most effiecant.
I'm done,:nervous: Dan