need help adjusting photoperiod for new lights

lafish

Member
I'm very excited because I'm making a significant upgrade in lighting for my tank. Before- 120 watts PC...total 12 hours (12 hours acintic, 10 hours daylight) a day. The new fixture's specs: PFO horizontal pendant- 175 watt 10K Ushio halide, 2x28 watt PC 03s....mounted moonlight. How would one go about making this transition? I know I can gradually lower the pendant...but what if I just wanted to cut back the time the lights are on. How long for the halide/pcs exactly? I have a few corals/fish in the tank...so I take it that acclimating them properly is key. Thanks for any advice!...(one more side question: What can I now keep in my tank?...22 inches deep).
 

jlm

Member
I believe they say to leave the mh on for 2 hours a day to begin with and slowly add 30mins every few days. until you are up to 8 hours a day. and you will have 7.7 wpg so I would say you could keep all softies and lps, and some sps. I'm just getting into the sps so someone else may have to help you on those. Congrat's on the new light. I can't wait until mine comes in.:D
 

lafish

Member
thanks guys...now two more Q's have sprung to mind: 1) What is the recommended total photoperiod for Halides (what do you guys do? I hear 6-8...so which one?) 2) How high should this pendant be above my tank? (again...any experience would help).....
 

obtusewit

Member
This is my lighting schedule which works for me.
300 gal 72L x 32W x 30H
5 x 36 watt T-5 actinic
4 x 36 watt T-5 10K
1 x 250 MH 14K
2 x 400 MH 14K
All the T-5s are 48" @ 36? watts total watts on
act 10K 14MH
8:30 single T-5 actinic............................ 36
8:45 add one T-5 act and one T-5 10K..... 72 36
9:00 add two T-5 act and one T-5 10K..... 144 72
9:15 add two T-5 act and two T-5 10K...... 216 144 fans start
9:30 get out the check book 250 MH......... 216 144 250
9:45 chain the electric meter to the wall ... 216 144 1050
7:00 shut down one 400
7:30 shut down next 400
7:45 shut down 250
8:00 shut down 9:15am T-5s
8:15 shut down 9:00 am T-5s
8:30 shut down 8:45 am T-5s
9:00 shut down last T-5 actinic - fans shut down
10:00 the moon comes up
Moon light is 5 hi blue leds and 5 hi white leds paired which come up "east to west" During a 'full moon" every 29 days, all 5 pairs come up 30 minutes apart, until all 5 pairs are on at midnite, then off starting at 5 AM one pair at a time "east to west" until the last pair goes off at 7AM. I use a moon cycle subroutine which divides the 29 day moon cycle into 6 cycles
Full moon 7 nights 5 pairs
3/4 moon 6 nights 4 pairs no center (#3)
1/2 moon 5 nights 3 pairs 1, 3, & 5
1/4 moon 4 nights 2 pairs 2 & 4
almost new moon 4 nights center only
new moon 3 nights no lights
How do I do all this without buying out the timer aisle at home depot???
I use a Allen Bradley SLC 5/04 Programmable Logic Controller to run the lighting and "power heads" for the main tank. The PLC allows me to surge PHs easily at "random" timings. There are no Power heads in the main tank, pumps are located externally and enter the tank via bulk heads in the back and bottom.
suffice to say this is anal overkill, what did you expect from a village idiot...I mean electrical engineer.
Bottom line ..get to know your corals, they will tell you when its right. tropical light periods are long days of clear blue skies, I would go at least 10 hours of full daylight with an hour of dawn and dusk. If this proves to be too much light, move the light away from the tank but try to maintain a 12 hour total photo period.
If you want a PLC, you can find them on ---- at a bargain, but get out your check book, they ain't that cheap, and the Rockwell software to write the program logic will run you about $5K, unless you can find a copy on ----. I love being an electrical engineer, so many things that I can use for my obsession...errr uh hobby....Now if I can only get a part time job at home depot...
 

lafish

Member
Wow...that's a pretty awesome freaking schedule...I wonder how that impacts reproduction/growth in your tank vs others. I'll pay attention to times to see how things respond...and good luck getting a job at Home Depot...I've heard its pretty tough to crack into. Me...I'd prefer to work at a strip club...w/ a nice reef tank (of course).
 

obtusewit

Member
If I worked at the titty bar, I think the fish would probably starve... Then again, if I worked at Home Depot, I would never get a check... better stick with electrical engineering, just don't tell my mother, she still thinks I am a piano player in a ho'house...
The lighting program has been in place for a year and growth rate is pretty phenominal. SPS coral growth rates on my acro increased aby 50% after I did the lighting change. adding the random pulse really made them go nuts. My Pachyseris (phonograph record coral) shows about 1/4 inch a month on every edge, which is double the rate before technolgy stepped in. My light cycle is only 30 minutes longer now than before the PLC was added, but I can only attribute the growth rates to a more natural photo period and the surging currents.
I have tried several different surge techniques, drop boxes, toilet flushers, whirling dirveshes etc. In my opinion the best thing going is to turn power heads off and on randomly and let the currents conflict head on. It really is a more natural representation although it isn't the wave action most acros like. The problem with the drop boxes etc, is the noise and the mess. No matter what you do, they are going to splash something. The spinning powerhead thingybobs are OK, but mine required constant cleaning to keep it spinning. There are a couple of diverters on the market but I have never tried them so I can't give any first hand experience for them, but I understand the work pretty well.
 
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