Need Help Real Bad!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter lawnguy
- Start date
toughguy80
Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
Well the only way to get rid of ich is Hyposalinity treatment or copper. Copper is not safe for scaleless fish such as eels. If I were a mod I would move this to the disease and treatment thread for you, but unfortunately I am not. Please post this over there and we will walk you through it.
You could do Hypo but you might be able to do something easier. I would go to the aggressive forums and ask in there if eels can be carriers of ich, they will know. If so either:
A)Do hypo
B)Remove him to another tank for a month. If eels don't carry ich, just leave the tank empty of fish for a month. Ichs average life cycle is 3 weeks. So if the tank is empty of fish for a month, no more ich. Plus your system will still be maturing during the process. So with nothing to "feed" off of, the ich will naturally die off without going through the pain of hypo. Hypo will kill anything living on live rock and live sand. I've done hypo, it's a pain in the rear! Besides, hypo is normally used in a small "hospital tank" with only one fish. Basically if you wanted to do it in your big tank you'd have to remove all live rock and sand then empty "X" amount of gallons of water per day and readd a slightly less amount of salty water back in. Not only is it time consuming, but in a bigger tank it takes a lot of water and salt which eqauals $$$. If you do hypo, by a smaller tank for your eel. Put him in there and eel proof it. Do hypo in the little tank leaving the big tank empty with all LR and "critters" in there for a month, hypo takes that long anyways.
I hope my rambling helps a little bit, good luck.
Well the only way to get rid of ich is Hyposalinity treatment or copper. Copper is not safe for scaleless fish such as eels. If I were a mod I would move this to the disease and treatment thread for you, but unfortunately I am not. Please post this over there and we will walk you through it.
You could do Hypo but you might be able to do something easier. I would go to the aggressive forums and ask in there if eels can be carriers of ich, they will know. If so either:
A)Do hypo
B)Remove him to another tank for a month. If eels don't carry ich, just leave the tank empty of fish for a month. Ichs average life cycle is 3 weeks. So if the tank is empty of fish for a month, no more ich. Plus your system will still be maturing during the process. So with nothing to "feed" off of, the ich will naturally die off without going through the pain of hypo. Hypo will kill anything living on live rock and live sand. I've done hypo, it's a pain in the rear! Besides, hypo is normally used in a small "hospital tank" with only one fish. Basically if you wanted to do it in your big tank you'd have to remove all live rock and sand then empty "X" amount of gallons of water per day and readd a slightly less amount of salty water back in. Not only is it time consuming, but in a bigger tank it takes a lot of water and salt which eqauals $$$. If you do hypo, by a smaller tank for your eel. Put him in there and eel proof it. Do hypo in the little tank leaving the big tank empty with all LR and "critters" in there for a month, hypo takes that long anyways.
I hope my rambling helps a little bit, good luck.
kdfrosty
Active Member
Cmon, people....This hobbyist has anemones and you are telling him to do hypo in his DT?!?!
You need to setup a quarantine tank that is hyposalinity. Let it cycle, and put livestock in the QT tank for a minimum 30 days. This will also let your DT get to safer and less stressful parameters
You need to setup a quarantine tank that is hyposalinity. Let it cycle, and put livestock in the QT tank for a minimum 30 days. This will also let your DT get to safer and less stressful parameters
misty927
Member
My advice, go to another pet shop...these people are obviously giving you poor advice. A rampant yellow tang "stressing" out the other fish to the point of death...possible, but unlikely. I would say the source of your problem is ich and the disease killed all of your fish.
As the above posters mentioned and if it were me, personally, I return the eel or buy another tank to temporarily house it, removing all possible hosts for the ich. I would then wait one month to ensure all the ich had died out. After this month period, I would ensure the cycle had fully ended. I would then re-add the eel. After another two to three week period, I might then add another inhabitant, depending on the how well the tank was coming. Patience really is the key in all of this, even though it can be the most annoying thing having to wait! Good luck...
As the above posters mentioned and if it were me, personally, I return the eel or buy another tank to temporarily house it, removing all possible hosts for the ich. I would then wait one month to ensure all the ich had died out. After this month period, I would ensure the cycle had fully ended. I would then re-add the eel. After another two to three week period, I might then add another inhabitant, depending on the how well the tank was coming. Patience really is the key in all of this, even though it can be the most annoying thing having to wait! Good luck...
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by KDFrosty
Cmon, people....This hobbyist has anemones and you are telling him to do hypo in his DT?!?!
You need to setup a quarantine tank that is hyposalinity. Let it cycle, and put livestock in the QT tank for a minimum 30 days. This will also let your DT get to safer and less stressful parameters
Hypo should NOT be done in the DT. Sorry if I missed someone suggesting that. You should not put livestock into a qt that is being cycled at all!!!! I am not realy sure why you would suggest that KD. It should be cycled before hypo is performed. A piece of shrimp or krill will do the job. It is also wise to add a sponge filter to your DT to allow some bacteria to collect and then place it into the qt. This will lessen the cycle time.
Cmon, people....This hobbyist has anemones and you are telling him to do hypo in his DT?!?!
You need to setup a quarantine tank that is hyposalinity. Let it cycle, and put livestock in the QT tank for a minimum 30 days. This will also let your DT get to safer and less stressful parameters
Hypo should NOT be done in the DT. Sorry if I missed someone suggesting that. You should not put livestock into a qt that is being cycled at all!!!! I am not realy sure why you would suggest that KD. It should be cycled before hypo is performed. A piece of shrimp or krill will do the job. It is also wise to add a sponge filter to your DT to allow some bacteria to collect and then place it into the qt. This will lessen the cycle time.
kdfrosty
Active Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
Hypo should NOT be done in the DT. Sorry if I missed someone suggesting that. You should not put livestock into a qt that is being cycled at all!!!! I am not realy sure why you would suggest that KD. It should be cycled before hypo is performed. A piece of shrimp or krill will do the job. It is also wise to add a sponge filter to your DT to allow some bacteria to collect and then place it into the qt. This will lessen the cycle time.
Read, and re-read.
Hypo should NOT be done in the DT. Sorry if I missed someone suggesting that. You should not put livestock into a qt that is being cycled at all!!!! I am not realy sure why you would suggest that KD. It should be cycled before hypo is performed. A piece of shrimp or krill will do the job. It is also wise to add a sponge filter to your DT to allow some bacteria to collect and then place it into the qt. This will lessen the cycle time.
Read, and re-read.