New 55 gal set-up

[one-fish]

So its been say 25 years since I had a saltwater aquarium and things sure have changed. Have some questions but first here is my set-up. 55Gal display w/ a 20gal sump 55 has about 35-40lbs of dry rock and 80lbs of pool filter sand as the base. In the sump is 6lbs of ceramic pellets with a Jebao DC-6000 return pump. Started cycling with a piece of shrimp on 7/26 current reads are 2.0 ppm ammonium, 0 ppm nitrites, PH is 8.3, Salt 1.025 and Temp 78 deg. Return pump is fed by two wier 1" siphons.Which leads to my first ? having trouble keeping a somewhat constant level in the sump. I realize it will not be constant but I am adding 2 gal of water every 3-4 days to keep the pump from sucking air. How much evaporation is to be expected ? Does anyone know the gph of a gravity fed 1" siphon I was thinking 600gals ? My pump is a 10 speed pump with a 1500gph rate have it set on 1 Plan on adding Protein Skimmer and better lighting as time goes Look forward to discussing Saltwater Fish and their keeping Thanks

 

[bang guy]

Hi and welcome!

First question - is there any way you can return the 55 gallon tank and get something with a little more front to back depth? You're going to have a difficult time with such a skinny and tall tank. I'm guessing "no" so will proceed as if that's out of the question.

Do NOT under any circumstance use a straight siphon to feed your sump. Your post sounded like that's what you are doing, I'm hoping I just read it wrong and you have an external overflow you are calling a siphon. A straight siphon will fail 100% of the time in a display/sump system. You will eventually flood your floor with saltwater or run your pump dry and burn it out.

Again, I'm going to assume you mean weir overflow...

The flow rate of a 1" pipe depends a lot on the top to bottom distance, to answer your flow rate question.

Evaporation rate depends on temp and relative humidity. A gallon every other day seems reasonable for an air conditioned room.

Is there any way you can remove the pool filter sand? This type of sand is incompatible with a healthy sand bed.

 

[jay0705]

Unfortunately I have to agree with bang on the sand and tank size.

 

[one-fish]

Unfortunately I have to agree with bang on the sand and tank size.

Thanks for the replies Guess I am the example of what not to do. So the longer the 1" pipe is means more flow correct ? Sorry to say Yes straight siphon. Plan is to keep just fish once tank cycles if things work out maybe I can get another tank Think I need to read more of your forum before I ask anymore questions Iam sure the answers are there Thanks Again

 

[bang guy]

Please continue to ask questions, that's why we are here.

Just a reminder - the straight siphon to the sump will fail. It's just a matter of time.

 

[one-fish]

Please continue to ask questions, that's why we are here.

Just a reminder - the straight siphon to the sump will fail. It's just a matter of time.

Bang,Guess I need to clarify The siphon (1" pipe) is inside a 2" PVC pipe that is inside the tank used as an overflow Iam sure your familiar with the set-up. BTW decided to remove the shrimp used to start cycle, net hit it and broke into a cloud. Think this is going to be a long process should've bought the bugs in a bottle. Thx

 

[jay0705]

Honestly just some live rock would have done it.

 

[one-fish]

Honestly just some live rock would have done it.

I know But want to do this pest free and don't mind the wait, will select some CUC's later. Still trying to dial this sump filtration system in. I think I need more flow but without a way of measuring GPH through the sump I can only look at it visually. As Bang commented on evaporation I might be close. A problem with this system is if the pump output is greater than the overflow capabilities, I have a valve to dial in the pumps output. Trying to get the level where the pump is sectioned off more stable. Thx

 

[bang guy]

What would happen if you lost power for 10 minutes?

 

[lmforbis]

It could be that there isn't enough water to support the pump speed. If you slow down the flow from the return the water level in the sump should go up. If it stablizes at a lower speed you may need more water. Evaporation will also show up in the return chamber of the sump and there can be a lot of evaporation. I use a very inexpensive gravity fed auto top off made by eshopps It has a float switch like a toilet and cost less than $20. I have it attached to a cheap plastic tub with a lid. The water container needs to be above the desired water level in the return section. When the water drops below that level it fills it back up. This keeps things very stable.

 

[lmforbis]

Bang has a good point can the sump hold the water that flows out when the pump is off.

 

[bang guy]

Bang has a good point can the sump hold the water that flows out when the pump is off.

... and what happens when the pump starts back up...

 

[one-fish]

... and what happens when the pump starts back up...

Ok This is how the system is set. Fill DT with water until it reaches top of 2" overflow pipes this is the tanks water level. Now add water to sump filling to 3" from top of sump this is max level of sump. Turn on pump the additional water from the pump entering the DT will then flow into the 2" overflow and siphon thru the 1" down to the sump. When power is lost (will do this daily to feed) the water values return to there respective levels in DT and sump. I mark each level so I know not to exceed. And Yes I am looking into a float switch to ease this issue in the future still playing with the balance. Should the water flowing thru the sump be visually moving fast or slow. From what I have read slowly but not to slow as to stagnate causing dead spots. Thx Again for your replys

 

[bang guy]

OK, it doesn't sound like you have a straight siphon. Sorry to sidetrack you with that. Is there a hole (or holes) drilled into the glass for the overflow? Maybe a picture would be best.

As far as water through the sump, it depends on what equipment you have in the sump. It doesn't have to be turbulent but if the skimmer and heaters, etc. are in the sump then a good waterflow is beneficial.

 

[one-fish]

OK, it doesn't sound like you have a straight siphon. Sorry to sidetrack you with that. Is there a hole (or holes) drilled into the glass for the overflow? Maybe a picture would be best.

As far as water through the sump, it depends on what equipment you have in the sump. It doesn't have to be turbulent but if the skimmer and heaters, etc. are in the sump then a good waterflow is beneficial.

Thx as far as pics I can send a link if thats permissible here Shows how to build and operate.

OK, it doesn't sound like you have a straight siphon. Sorry to sidetrack you with that. Is there a hole (or holes) drilled into the glass for the overflow? Maybe a picture would be best.

As far as water through the sump, it depends on what equipment you have in the sump. It doesn't have to be turbulent but if the skimmer and heaters, etc. are in the sump then a good waterflow is beneficial.

 

[one-fish]

Just an update Its been well over a month since I dropped in a half shrimp to start cycle Amm. spiked to 4.0 ppm now dropping 0.35 with 4.0 ppm nitrite and 60 ppm nitrate. Would like to do a water change but think its best to wait until cycle is completed Nitrate level has me a bit alarmed though Going to order some powerheads for the DT looking for a Protein skimmer and LED lighting. Overall cycle has been slow but in a couple more weeks it should be comp.

 

[one-fish]

Well its been now over 2 months ongoing cycling of my tank. Progress has been made but it has been very slow much slower than I expected. I have been reading up on the denitrification process to recheck/rethink my tank
conditions to see if I may have missed something only to conclude that by using no live rock/sand it will take much longer. I think I am going to fake feed every other day or so to see if I get another Amm. spike/increase, My thinking on this is the bacteria will only survive as long as a food source is present it has been a month since I saw any Amm. when testing. NO2 and NO3 levels have dropped to half of peak levels but still present (NO2 2ppm , NO3 10ppm). I have not seen any brown,green or red algae yet but keep lighting on only for 6hrs a day. Going to wait this out since it was my goal at first to start this tank Clean and Critter Free although I know that it will not remain that way. When tank has conditioned I will probably add some rubble LR to hopefully kick start the dry rock and add some good critters. Question on picking of CUC's (when NO2 0.0 ppm) since no algae is present can any of them live without it or LR for that matter. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. After rereading this I think I should have started fake feeding sooner.....but that's an easy fix.

 

[lmforbis]

You definitely want to ghost feed to keep the pacteria fed. The CUC will eat that food. You don't want to get any that are strictly herbivores if you don't have any algae. Many are omnivores so you won't have a problem.

 

[one-fish]

Yes I agree on the ghost feeding. I guess I got sidetracked on the term Tank has Cycled... it never truly completes its a continuous cycle. Learned a lesson, I was just looking at the test results and not concentrating on my objective Providing an environment for bacteria to grow and thrive. Curious to see Amm. levels in a few days after feeding. Will read on the CUC choices Thx Imforbis..

 

[mfutch]

I have just started a 40gal Breeder tank and was looking to stock it with:
2 clownfish (oscellaris)
1 firefish
1 bangaii cardinal
1 flame angel or royal gramma
1 mandarin
and maybe 1 yellow watchmen goby


Is there also any type of fish that looks like an engineer goby/or eel that could go in the tank? and what do you guys think of the stocking list?