New LED Lighting
- Thread starter ncacura
- Start date
ncacura
Member
Originally Posted by earlybird
Not cheap. 1000+
I can't argue w/ you, but considering most metal halide systems are close to 1000 bucks anyways, I def. think it is worth the money. Also, they last for 30+ years where metal halides need to be replaced 1-2 times a year, and they cost up to 100 bucks to replace per bulb.....so in the long run it's pretty sweet.
Not cheap. 1000+
I can't argue w/ you, but considering most metal halide systems are close to 1000 bucks anyways, I def. think it is worth the money. Also, they last for 30+ years where metal halides need to be replaced 1-2 times a year, and they cost up to 100 bucks to replace per bulb.....so in the long run it's pretty sweet.
earlybird
Active Member
Originally Posted by ncacura
I can't argue w/ you, but considering most metal halide systems are close to 1000 bucks anyways, I def. think it is worth the money. Also, they last for 30+ years where metal halides need to be replaced 1-2 times a year, and they cost up to 100 bucks to replace per bulb.....so in the long run it's pretty sweet.
Yes worth it in the long run for sure.
I can't argue w/ you, but considering most metal halide systems are close to 1000 bucks anyways, I def. think it is worth the money. Also, they last for 30+ years where metal halides need to be replaced 1-2 times a year, and they cost up to 100 bucks to replace per bulb.....so in the long run it's pretty sweet.
Yes worth it in the long run for sure.
salt monger
Member
some of those led lights are more sophisticated than you might imagine, i saw one in action once at someones house that was programmed to every 15 minutes sequentially from one side to the other have the lights dim in an undulating pattern to mimick clouds going across the sun, and the luner lights work in sync with the actual pattern of the moons cycle, there was a "computer" built into it that you entered where you were in the world to make the full moon cycle acurate, the fuller the moon that night the brighter the lights, the smaller the moon the dimmer the lunar lights would be..... crazy.
*please dont use abbreviations for cuss words*
*please dont use abbreviations for cuss words*
rudedog40
Member
I was looking at the specs on these Solaris lights. They gave this info on a 48" model ($2500):
Each 12" section contains the following LED's: 9-Actinic Blue Day, 6 Full Spectrum White, 4 Actinic Blue Night, and 6 Full Spectrum White Night LED's.
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off. Just looking at the number of LED's they are using, I can't see how they make this claim:
The current design produces PAR light output levels equal to a 400W Metal Halide 20K Light
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
Each 12" section contains the following LED's: 9-Actinic Blue Day, 6 Full Spectrum White, 4 Actinic Blue Night, and 6 Full Spectrum White Night LED's.
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off. Just looking at the number of LED's they are using, I can't see how they make this claim:
The current design produces PAR light output levels equal to a 400W Metal Halide 20K Light
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
rudedog40
Member
Here's some more info. Got anybody that like to play with electronics that wants to try and build one?
G Series (250W 20k Equivalent)
Detail Specifications
LED
Each 12” section of hood has 25-Luxeon 3 Watt LEDs for a total of 75Watts per foot. The LEDs are mounted 5 LEDs per circuit board. If one LED fails then the 5 LED board needs to be replaced. This circuit board replacement is designed to be performed in the field if needed.
The LEDs can be set up for either a maximum color temperature of 20k or 12k:
20K
9 Actinic Blue Daylight
6 Full Spectrum White
4 Actinic Blue Night Light
6 Full SPectrum White Night
25 Total LED’s/Foot
13K
0 Actinic Blue Daylight
15 Full Spectrum White
4 Actinic Blue Night Light
6 Full SPectrum White Night
25 Total LED’s/Foot
During Daylight all LEDs, including Night Lights, are on. Each of the four groups of LEDs can be independently dimmed from 0-100%.
Note: The Actinic Blue LEDs produce more PAR than the Full Spectrum White LEDs. For the most PAR, use the 20k LED version.(Opposite of Metal Halide).
Power Supply
The fixture has an 8’ cable with quick disconnect for each required power supply. This cable can not be extended beyond 8’. The power supply cable comes off the back left hand side of fixture. It does not come out of the end. The input is 60/50Hz with selectable voltage of 120V or 230V. All power in the hood is 12V DC. The power supply is powder coated black. The power supply is cooled via a fan. Caution: Water can enter power supply through cooling fan. Mount via wall mounting holes or set on dry surface. Dimensions: 6.75”L x 6.25”W x 3.75” H.
Length Width Height LED Wattage Power Supplies Fans
14” 8.7” 3.65” 75W 1 4
24” 8.7” 3.65” 150W 1 4
36” 8.7” 3.65” 225W 2 4
46.5” 8.7” 3.65” 300W 2 4
59.5” 8.7” 3.65” 375W 3 4
71.5” 8.7” 3.65” 450W 3 4
Fixture Cooling
Air needs to circulate through the fixture. If mounting in canopy, ensure there is air flow to the fans on each end of the fixture. The control board has a thermometer on board which will turn off the fixture if the LEDs get too hot. This will happen prior to any damage to the LEDs. The LCD will display a message stating the fixture became too hot. If this happens improve the air flow to the fans.
Mounting
The fixture can be mounted with, mounting feet which are supplied on tank, supplied eye hooks, or with optional pendant hanging kit. It is preferred to mount in the open air, but mounting inside canopy is fine as long as adequate ventilation is available to the fans. Ensure that the temperature stays between 70F and 110F. The cooler, the better.
Housing/Lens
The housing is extruded aluminum. The splash lens is acrylic. DO NOT remove acrylic lens because it exposes the LED board to saltwater splash and salt creep.
G Series (250W 20k Equivalent)
Detail Specifications
LED
Each 12” section of hood has 25-Luxeon 3 Watt LEDs for a total of 75Watts per foot. The LEDs are mounted 5 LEDs per circuit board. If one LED fails then the 5 LED board needs to be replaced. This circuit board replacement is designed to be performed in the field if needed.
The LEDs can be set up for either a maximum color temperature of 20k or 12k:
20K
9 Actinic Blue Daylight
6 Full Spectrum White
4 Actinic Blue Night Light
6 Full SPectrum White Night
25 Total LED’s/Foot
13K
0 Actinic Blue Daylight
15 Full Spectrum White
4 Actinic Blue Night Light
6 Full SPectrum White Night
25 Total LED’s/Foot
During Daylight all LEDs, including Night Lights, are on. Each of the four groups of LEDs can be independently dimmed from 0-100%.
Note: The Actinic Blue LEDs produce more PAR than the Full Spectrum White LEDs. For the most PAR, use the 20k LED version.(Opposite of Metal Halide).
Power Supply
The fixture has an 8’ cable with quick disconnect for each required power supply. This cable can not be extended beyond 8’. The power supply cable comes off the back left hand side of fixture. It does not come out of the end. The input is 60/50Hz with selectable voltage of 120V or 230V. All power in the hood is 12V DC. The power supply is powder coated black. The power supply is cooled via a fan. Caution: Water can enter power supply through cooling fan. Mount via wall mounting holes or set on dry surface. Dimensions: 6.75”L x 6.25”W x 3.75” H.
Length Width Height LED Wattage Power Supplies Fans
14” 8.7” 3.65” 75W 1 4
24” 8.7” 3.65” 150W 1 4
36” 8.7” 3.65” 225W 2 4
46.5” 8.7” 3.65” 300W 2 4
59.5” 8.7” 3.65” 375W 3 4
71.5” 8.7” 3.65” 450W 3 4
Fixture Cooling
Air needs to circulate through the fixture. If mounting in canopy, ensure there is air flow to the fans on each end of the fixture. The control board has a thermometer on board which will turn off the fixture if the LEDs get too hot. This will happen prior to any damage to the LEDs. The LCD will display a message stating the fixture became too hot. If this happens improve the air flow to the fans.
Mounting
The fixture can be mounted with, mounting feet which are supplied on tank, supplied eye hooks, or with optional pendant hanging kit. It is preferred to mount in the open air, but mounting inside canopy is fine as long as adequate ventilation is available to the fans. Ensure that the temperature stays between 70F and 110F. The cooler, the better.
Housing/Lens
The housing is extruded aluminum. The splash lens is acrylic. DO NOT remove acrylic lens because it exposes the LED board to saltwater splash and salt creep.
wangotango
Active Member
Solaris has been out for a little while now, but since the technology is so new and so few people are using them few actually have experience to share. What brand of bulb and reflector setup were they comparing pars to? Regardless, a 20k bulb has lower par than a 10k. I've read on other forums that some people have had problems with these units. Give them some time to work the kinks out, produce more par, and come down in price (like the i-phone
) and they could be a very good alternative lighting system.
-Justin
-Justin
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by rudedog40
I was looking at the specs on these Solaris lights. They gave this info on a 48" model ($2500):
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off.
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
Nowadays, the super-powerful LED market is more-or-less cornered by a company called Cree. They make LEDS that can sink an enormous amount of current and create truly amazing amounts of light.
I'm designing a lunar cycle simulating moonlight system for my new tank project based on a set of (4) 3-watt Cree LEDs, so I might be able to give some insight on the costs... corals reproduce based on lunar cycles, so I am designing the system to be able to handle full moon, half moon, full, etc.
The computer is a big part of the costs, but the real cost is in the mixing of the light output from each LED. I've seen the Solaris system in operation, and several different types of LEDS are on at once. To achieve a given spectrum, they vary the intensity coming out of each particular color or group of LEDS. To do this, you use an electronics technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). These circuits are somewhat complex. Ergo, simply using timers to turn on and off different groups of LEDs is probably going to fall short of the reef's requirement. The PWM design is probably where a lot of the costs are hiding.
I was looking at the specs on these Solaris lights. They gave this info on a 48" model ($2500):
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off.
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
Nowadays, the super-powerful LED market is more-or-less cornered by a company called Cree. They make LEDS that can sink an enormous amount of current and create truly amazing amounts of light.
I'm designing a lunar cycle simulating moonlight system for my new tank project based on a set of (4) 3-watt Cree LEDs, so I might be able to give some insight on the costs... corals reproduce based on lunar cycles, so I am designing the system to be able to handle full moon, half moon, full, etc.
The computer is a big part of the costs, but the real cost is in the mixing of the light output from each LED. I've seen the Solaris system in operation, and several different types of LEDS are on at once. To achieve a given spectrum, they vary the intensity coming out of each particular color or group of LEDS. To do this, you use an electronics technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). These circuits are somewhat complex. Ergo, simply using timers to turn on and off different groups of LEDs is probably going to fall short of the reef's requirement. The PWM design is probably where a lot of the costs are hiding.
reefraff
Active Member
Originally Posted by rudedog40
I was looking at the specs on these Solaris lights. They gave this info on a 48" model ($2500):
Each 12" section contains the following LED's: 9-Actinic Blue Day, 6 Full Spectrum White, 4 Actinic Blue Night, and 6 Full Spectrum White Night LED's.
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off. Just looking at the number of LED's they are using, I can't see how they make this claim:
The current design produces PAR light output levels equal to a 400W Metal Halide 20K Light
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
There are some pretty crappy 400 watt halides out there to compare them to. Amazing how they don't compare it to say a 175 watt XM 20K lamp in a reefoptix reflector
I was looking at the specs on these Solaris lights. They gave this info on a 48" model ($2500):
Each 12" section contains the following LED's: 9-Actinic Blue Day, 6 Full Spectrum White, 4 Actinic Blue Night, and 6 Full Spectrum White Night LED's.
I think the majority of the costs comes from the computer that simulates the clouds, nighttime, etc., and automatically turns the bulbs on and off for you. If I could find out which specific LED's they use for each spectrum, I'd just put each one on it's own power supply, and use timers to turn the different LED's on and off. Just looking at the number of LED's they are using, I can't see how they make this claim:
The current design produces PAR light output levels equal to a 400W Metal Halide 20K Light
Those must be some super bright LED's to get that type of output.
There are some pretty crappy 400 watt halides out there to compare them to. Amazing how they don't compare it to say a 175 watt XM 20K lamp in a reefoptix reflector
rudedog40
Member
I found pulse drivers on the well known illustrious
[hr]
site. They're only around $5 - $6 each. But like you said, I don't know what combination of LED's you would get, and how to hook them together to get a 20K wavelength and the proper PAR/wattage output that would equal a good MH. The one doc I referenced about the Solaris lights tells you the type and number you need for the desired spectrum, but unless I could find a wiring diagram showing how to hook them up and what alternate parts I'd need (pulse drivers, transistors, resistors, power supplies, etc.), not sure if it's worth the effort. I know I could defintely build it for less than the $2500 they want for essentially 50 LED's, a microprocessor, a few fans, and power supplies.
[hr]
site. They're only around $5 - $6 each. But like you said, I don't know what combination of LED's you would get, and how to hook them together to get a 20K wavelength and the proper PAR/wattage output that would equal a good MH. The one doc I referenced about the Solaris lights tells you the type and number you need for the desired spectrum, but unless I could find a wiring diagram showing how to hook them up and what alternate parts I'd need (pulse drivers, transistors, resistors, power supplies, etc.), not sure if it's worth the effort. I know I could defintely build it for less than the $2500 they want for essentially 50 LED's, a microprocessor, a few fans, and power supplies.
bcspeed34
Member
Originally Posted by earlybird
I'm waiting for the automatic tank cleaner, filter changer, water topper, parameter tester.
I'd be willing to test and share experiences if someone is willing to buy one for me. My reportings will be very beneficial to the eventual reduction of cost.
Ah yes, like the *something* 3000 in Finding Nemo, where a laser would scan and clean every 15 min.
On topic, LED would be great, I have had nothing must good experience with them. Unfortunately right now, only the price is setting me back. Hopefully in the future they will drop down or I can put aside some cash in savings for one.
I'm waiting for the automatic tank cleaner, filter changer, water topper, parameter tester.
I'd be willing to test and share experiences if someone is willing to buy one for me. My reportings will be very beneficial to the eventual reduction of cost.
Ah yes, like the *something* 3000 in Finding Nemo, where a laser would scan and clean every 15 min.
On topic, LED would be great, I have had nothing must good experience with them. Unfortunately right now, only the price is setting me back. Hopefully in the future they will drop down or I can put aside some cash in savings for one.
isistius
Active Member
give it time. aquailluminations is another led company that should be unveiling it's led systems very soon, if it hasn't done so already. it should blow the solaris out of the water with almost 3x the par from their leds. they are also planning on using another led due out begining of '08 that will be almopst 5x the par of the current solaris. however, i still feel that they are still only in the begining phases of breaking into the lighting market. withing the next few years, there will definitely be more companies converting over to them, thus driving the prices down, at the same time technology increases exponentially.
just my .02
just my .02