NEW PICS - for those that like'em
- Thread starter broomer5
- Start date
broomer5
Active Member
Totally flattered by that request Krusk.
Tell ya what - it's getting late for me here.
Got to get some Zzzz's in a few minutes.
I can send you an email maybe yet tomorrow with list of equipment and general directions.
General meaning hose types, connectors, pumps, overflow and other related wiggets.
Are you asking for sump, refugium or both ?
Lemme know - okay
Tell ya what - it's getting late for me here.
Got to get some Zzzz's in a few minutes.
I can send you an email maybe yet tomorrow with list of equipment and general directions.
General meaning hose types, connectors, pumps, overflow and other related wiggets.
Are you asking for sump, refugium or both ?
Lemme know - okay
karlas
Member
nice tank!
our cardinal does the same hangs out in 1 area of the tank most of the day but is all over when the lights go out. actually seem him catch a pod very cool to watch them do that.
the firefish fine when they are both out but when there is just 1 they turn into big chickens.
our cardinal does the same hangs out in 1 area of the tank most of the day but is all over when the lights go out. actually seem him catch a pod very cool to watch them do that.
the firefish fine when they are both out but when there is just 1 they turn into big chickens.
broomer5
Active Member
Okay you guys - here it is.
If you have questions - let me know.
If you can not open notepad for some reason - I can email to you to you in another text format.
Suggestion: Save this file your desktop. Open it and click on open up FORMAT on menu. Check WRAP TEXT if not already checked.
This will allow you to read easier it and print if you care to.
Later
Brian
<a href="http://www.msnusers.com/crl9cij3qe4aqgtftgh6mscf75/Documents/SUMP%5FREFUGIUM%20DETAIL/sump%5Ffuge%2Etxt" target="_blank">http://www.msnusers.com/crl9cij3qe4aqgtftgh6mscf75/Documents/SUMP%5FREF UGIUM%20DETAIL/sump%5Ffuge%2Etxt</a>
If you have questions - let me know.
If you can not open notepad for some reason - I can email to you to you in another text format.
Suggestion: Save this file your desktop. Open it and click on open up FORMAT on menu. Check WRAP TEXT if not already checked.
This will allow you to read easier it and print if you care to.
Later
Brian
<a href="http://www.msnusers.com/crl9cij3qe4aqgtftgh6mscf75/Documents/SUMP%5FREFUGIUM%20DETAIL/sump%5Ffuge%2Etxt" target="_blank">http://www.msnusers.com/crl9cij3qe4aqgtftgh6mscf75/Documents/SUMP%5FREF UGIUM%20DETAIL/sump%5Ffuge%2Etxt</a>
bigeyedfish
Member
Broomer,
Asked for me to sign into my msn account which i did and then said i wasnt authorize to view it. Do you need to change an access option somwhere?
Asked for me to sign into my msn account which i did and then said i wasnt authorize to view it. Do you need to change an access option somwhere?
broomer5
Active Member
Sorry this is so long - I can make a sump/refugium sing, but can't get the darn instructions to work at my screwy site.
*************************************************
SUMP
14 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic container.
Return Pump(s)
MagDrive 9.5 rated flow about 850 gph @ 3 feet head pressure.
MagDrive 7 rated flow about 500 gph @ 3 feet head pressure.
Refugium
18 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic container, with (2) 1/4" stainless steel all thread rods running across the top for added support. This refugium will be almost full of saltwater when placed in service, top support of some kind will be needed. Run the stainless steel allthread rod through 3/8" vinyl airline tubing the full length of each rod - for corrosion resistant protection and too keep metals from entering the water system.
Overflow
LifeReef DUAL overflow. Has (2) 1-1/8" diameter individual siphon U-tubes, (2) separate chambers and sponge prefilters and (2) 1" drains.
Rated Capacity: 1400 gph
************************************************
Okay this gets complicated to explain so hang in there.
The refugium sits next to the sump, and is taller than the sump by several inches. This extra height allows you to cut (2) holes in the side of the refugium where the sump and refugium containers meet. Cut these holes and install (2) 1" Double Threaded Bulkhead fittings in these holes. Use the gaskets on the outside of refugium container, and tighten the (2) bulkheads securely.
If you want to ( and I recommend it ) reinforce the refugium with the vinyl covered airline tubing/stainless steel rods in some fashion. See pics if you need idea. The top of these containers tend to buldge out when full of water. The refugium will be full up to the point of your (2) bulkhead fittings, so you gotta do something to keep the container from buldging out. If you have a better idea - by all means do it.
Install a 1" threaded x 1" solvent end adaptor in to each of the bulkheads on the OUTSIDE of each one.
Cut a short length - couple inches - of 1" Schedule 40 white PVC pipe and glue it into each of these (2) adaptors.
Glue a 90 degree elbow onto each of these short pieces of pipe sticking out of the bulkheads. Position the elbow so it's pointing down into where the sump will be.
Run a short ( several inches ) piece of same 1" PVC pipe down from each elbow into where the sump will be. Dry fit everything first, and when it looks good to you - glue it.
That takes care of the refugium discharge plumbing.
SUMP
I use (2) individual return pumps. The lesser flow Mag7 runs 24/7.
The higher flow Mag9.5 is set on a timer for on/off operation.
If you choose to go this route, make sure your overflow can handle the total combined flowrate of each pump when running together. Otherwise - modify these instructions to suit your pump/overflow needs.
Each of my return pumps "feed" the refugium as well as the main tank.
So here we go.
Mag9.5
3/4" PVC female threaded x 1" sovent male adaptor on the outlet of this pump, to 1" PVC union. Glue the adaptor into one end of the union. Now you can thread this union on the pump. Use teflon tape on all threaded conncetions. On the other end of union, thread in a 1" male threaded x 1" hose barbed fitting. Snug it up good.
1" INTERNAL diameter vinyl tubing attached to this barbed fitting and secured with PLASTIC hose clamps. This section WILL be under water - do not use metal hose clamps here.
Length of this section of tubing will vary - depending on your set up.
My tubing here is about 8" long.
This piece of tubing goes to a 1" x 1" x 3/4" plastic three barbed hose fitting. Use same 1" I.D. tubing to run to the tank's spray bar return.
On the 3/4" branched tee - this is where you'll need a length of 3/4" I.D. tubing to feed over to the refugium.
Cut and intall all this tubing, and secure with hose clamps.
You may use plastic hose clamps - but since these sections are not exposed to the saltwater - I chose to use stainless steel metal hose clamps for strength. Also you can "arch" the 3'4" tubing up and over to the refugium somewhat. Position this end of the tubing pointing down into the refugium. YOU MUST INSTALL A BALL VALVE between the branched tee on the main line over to the refugium for flow control.
Use a PVC THREADED valve with 3/4" threaded x 3/4" hose barbed fittings screwed into each end of this valve. More clamps required.
Secure your hoses with plastic wire ties if they flop around.
Make sure the discharge of the 3/4" refugium feed line is NOT under water very much. It should discharge just at the level where the (2) discharge bulkheads are at. This will allow the 3/4" feed to "break" siphon upon powerloss should one exist. If you place the 3/4" tubing all the way down to the bottom of the refugium - when the pump turns off or loses power - there is a chance that the refugium will siphon back to the sump and empty the refugium. Not a good thing at all.
This completes the under tank plumbing for the Mag9.5.
Repeat the same general procedure for the Mag7. Same set up - but use smaller fittings and tubing.
1/2" thread on outlet of pump to 3/4 inch I.D. tubing to 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2" three hose barbed fitting.
Run 1'2" tubing with valve over to the refugium.
Same exact way - ball valve, threaded barbed fittings and clamps.
Postion this end of the 1/2" feed line at the same bulkhead level in the refugium. This line too will need to break siphon upon powerloss.
That's all for under tank plumbing on pumps/refugium.
NOW you must take care of drain lines and spraybars.
I used flexible hose ( Amiricle ) from each of the (2) 1" drains from my overflow. One is 3 feet long and runs down to my old wet/dry tower. The other flex drainline is 4 feet long and discharges into the sump.
You may use whatever you want - hard piped pvc, flex, or whatever you see fit. Flex is easy to work with, and allows you to move stuff around under there. It can get pretty crowded - so I use flex.
Spraybar - see pics. Use your imagination and come up with whatever arrangement you want. Just be sure you allow for good water circulation in the display tank. Adjustable flexible nozzles positioned along the spraybar allows you to change water directions and get differnt flow patterns/results.
PVC pipe and hose barbed fittings work well, are cheap, and do not leak when clampped well.
NOTE:
As in any sump/returnpump/overlflow - the risk of no breaking siphon upon powerloss EXISTS !
You MUST allow the spraybars to vent when the water begins to drain back to the sump when the pump is turned off. Drill holes somewhere in the spraybar arrangment just UNDER the normal operating water level in your main display tank. I use 1/4" drill bit and drill holes, even though I allow each spray bar to have (1) outlet just under the normal water level, for surface water agitation, it's my extra precaution. Works like a champ.
I'm sure I may have missed something in this description/instruction - and if so I apologize.
Here's typical operating scenerio and putting it all in service.
Once everything is plumbed up, securely tight with hose clamps, and all PVC cement/glue is dry ( overnight is best ) mix up some good saltwater overnight. You'll need about 25 gallons to be safe. This is if your display tank is FULL already.
Fill refugium up to just under the bulkheads, and pour in slowly so it just begins to trickle out the bulkhead fittings and piping into the sump.
Fill up the sump, but NOT 100% FULL, leave a few inches at the top.
Make sure both ball valves that feed the refugium on both lines are CLOSED !
Fire up the Mag7 pump and check for leaks at all fittings.
You will start seeing water flow into tank, into overflow and back down to sump. Again check well for leaks. Tighten any clamps if necessary.
If no leaks - you done good. If leaks - bummer. You'll need to fix them. If leaks are small - and not posing a wet floor - proceed with next step which is;
Fire up the Mag9.5 and look out my friend. Lots of flow now and your tank should have some great water circulation. Overflow will begin to do it's thing and you'll get much more water back down to sump now.
Notice the water level in the sump with each powering up of each return pump. Do not let water in sump to fall below a point where pumps begin to draw air. Mark this level on outside of sump, this is low water ALARM point in your head.
Check for leaks as before - hopefully you're in good shape. IF not ya gotta fix leakers - no way around it.
Assuming all is good to go - no leaks - now turn off your Mag9.5 and insure the water level begins to drop some, it's spraybar BREAKS SIPHON. Be ready to turn pump back on if it does not break siphon or you may overflow the sump. Correct this condition and repeat procedure. Once it works like it should, turn off this pump.
NOw repeat this check on the smaller pump, turning it off and checking for siphon break.
Both spraybars must BREAK SIPHON !!!!!
Once this is good and you are pleased - now you can turn on the little Mag7, let the tank flow stabalize some - and slowly open the ball valve feeding the refugium. Just open it a tad. You'll see water begin to flow though the 1/2" tubing over to refugium. Watch it close - WATCH the level in the refugium, and make sure the dual 1" bulkhead are handling the flowrate. If not - back off on the ball valve until it just barely tickles into the refugium.
Once you got this turn on the Mag9.5.
Repeat - by just barely opening the ball valve on the 3/4" tubing feeding the refugium. REALLY WATCH the level now in the refugium, cause you have TWO pumps feeding it. Balance out this flow so the refugium is filled, and flowing nicely out the (2) bulkheads. I run mine very slow - and the level in the refugium never even gets halfway up the center of either bulkhead.
That's it .........
Good luck if you go this route ............
*************************************************
SUMP
14 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic container.
Return Pump(s)
MagDrive 9.5 rated flow about 850 gph @ 3 feet head pressure.
MagDrive 7 rated flow about 500 gph @ 3 feet head pressure.
Refugium
18 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic container, with (2) 1/4" stainless steel all thread rods running across the top for added support. This refugium will be almost full of saltwater when placed in service, top support of some kind will be needed. Run the stainless steel allthread rod through 3/8" vinyl airline tubing the full length of each rod - for corrosion resistant protection and too keep metals from entering the water system.
Overflow
LifeReef DUAL overflow. Has (2) 1-1/8" diameter individual siphon U-tubes, (2) separate chambers and sponge prefilters and (2) 1" drains.
Rated Capacity: 1400 gph
************************************************
Okay this gets complicated to explain so hang in there.
The refugium sits next to the sump, and is taller than the sump by several inches. This extra height allows you to cut (2) holes in the side of the refugium where the sump and refugium containers meet. Cut these holes and install (2) 1" Double Threaded Bulkhead fittings in these holes. Use the gaskets on the outside of refugium container, and tighten the (2) bulkheads securely.
If you want to ( and I recommend it ) reinforce the refugium with the vinyl covered airline tubing/stainless steel rods in some fashion. See pics if you need idea. The top of these containers tend to buldge out when full of water. The refugium will be full up to the point of your (2) bulkhead fittings, so you gotta do something to keep the container from buldging out. If you have a better idea - by all means do it.
Install a 1" threaded x 1" solvent end adaptor in to each of the bulkheads on the OUTSIDE of each one.
Cut a short length - couple inches - of 1" Schedule 40 white PVC pipe and glue it into each of these (2) adaptors.
Glue a 90 degree elbow onto each of these short pieces of pipe sticking out of the bulkheads. Position the elbow so it's pointing down into where the sump will be.
Run a short ( several inches ) piece of same 1" PVC pipe down from each elbow into where the sump will be. Dry fit everything first, and when it looks good to you - glue it.
That takes care of the refugium discharge plumbing.
SUMP
I use (2) individual return pumps. The lesser flow Mag7 runs 24/7.
The higher flow Mag9.5 is set on a timer for on/off operation.
If you choose to go this route, make sure your overflow can handle the total combined flowrate of each pump when running together. Otherwise - modify these instructions to suit your pump/overflow needs.
Each of my return pumps "feed" the refugium as well as the main tank.
So here we go.
Mag9.5
3/4" PVC female threaded x 1" sovent male adaptor on the outlet of this pump, to 1" PVC union. Glue the adaptor into one end of the union. Now you can thread this union on the pump. Use teflon tape on all threaded conncetions. On the other end of union, thread in a 1" male threaded x 1" hose barbed fitting. Snug it up good.
1" INTERNAL diameter vinyl tubing attached to this barbed fitting and secured with PLASTIC hose clamps. This section WILL be under water - do not use metal hose clamps here.
Length of this section of tubing will vary - depending on your set up.
My tubing here is about 8" long.
This piece of tubing goes to a 1" x 1" x 3/4" plastic three barbed hose fitting. Use same 1" I.D. tubing to run to the tank's spray bar return.
On the 3/4" branched tee - this is where you'll need a length of 3/4" I.D. tubing to feed over to the refugium.
Cut and intall all this tubing, and secure with hose clamps.
You may use plastic hose clamps - but since these sections are not exposed to the saltwater - I chose to use stainless steel metal hose clamps for strength. Also you can "arch" the 3'4" tubing up and over to the refugium somewhat. Position this end of the tubing pointing down into the refugium. YOU MUST INSTALL A BALL VALVE between the branched tee on the main line over to the refugium for flow control.
Use a PVC THREADED valve with 3/4" threaded x 3/4" hose barbed fittings screwed into each end of this valve. More clamps required.
Secure your hoses with plastic wire ties if they flop around.
Make sure the discharge of the 3/4" refugium feed line is NOT under water very much. It should discharge just at the level where the (2) discharge bulkheads are at. This will allow the 3/4" feed to "break" siphon upon powerloss should one exist. If you place the 3/4" tubing all the way down to the bottom of the refugium - when the pump turns off or loses power - there is a chance that the refugium will siphon back to the sump and empty the refugium. Not a good thing at all.
This completes the under tank plumbing for the Mag9.5.
Repeat the same general procedure for the Mag7. Same set up - but use smaller fittings and tubing.
1/2" thread on outlet of pump to 3/4 inch I.D. tubing to 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2" three hose barbed fitting.
Run 1'2" tubing with valve over to the refugium.
Same exact way - ball valve, threaded barbed fittings and clamps.
Postion this end of the 1/2" feed line at the same bulkhead level in the refugium. This line too will need to break siphon upon powerloss.
That's all for under tank plumbing on pumps/refugium.
NOW you must take care of drain lines and spraybars.
I used flexible hose ( Amiricle ) from each of the (2) 1" drains from my overflow. One is 3 feet long and runs down to my old wet/dry tower. The other flex drainline is 4 feet long and discharges into the sump.
You may use whatever you want - hard piped pvc, flex, or whatever you see fit. Flex is easy to work with, and allows you to move stuff around under there. It can get pretty crowded - so I use flex.
Spraybar - see pics. Use your imagination and come up with whatever arrangement you want. Just be sure you allow for good water circulation in the display tank. Adjustable flexible nozzles positioned along the spraybar allows you to change water directions and get differnt flow patterns/results.
PVC pipe and hose barbed fittings work well, are cheap, and do not leak when clampped well.
NOTE:
As in any sump/returnpump/overlflow - the risk of no breaking siphon upon powerloss EXISTS !
You MUST allow the spraybars to vent when the water begins to drain back to the sump when the pump is turned off. Drill holes somewhere in the spraybar arrangment just UNDER the normal operating water level in your main display tank. I use 1/4" drill bit and drill holes, even though I allow each spray bar to have (1) outlet just under the normal water level, for surface water agitation, it's my extra precaution. Works like a champ.
I'm sure I may have missed something in this description/instruction - and if so I apologize.
Here's typical operating scenerio and putting it all in service.
Once everything is plumbed up, securely tight with hose clamps, and all PVC cement/glue is dry ( overnight is best ) mix up some good saltwater overnight. You'll need about 25 gallons to be safe. This is if your display tank is FULL already.
Fill refugium up to just under the bulkheads, and pour in slowly so it just begins to trickle out the bulkhead fittings and piping into the sump.
Fill up the sump, but NOT 100% FULL, leave a few inches at the top.
Make sure both ball valves that feed the refugium on both lines are CLOSED !
Fire up the Mag7 pump and check for leaks at all fittings.
You will start seeing water flow into tank, into overflow and back down to sump. Again check well for leaks. Tighten any clamps if necessary.
If no leaks - you done good. If leaks - bummer. You'll need to fix them. If leaks are small - and not posing a wet floor - proceed with next step which is;
Fire up the Mag9.5 and look out my friend. Lots of flow now and your tank should have some great water circulation. Overflow will begin to do it's thing and you'll get much more water back down to sump now.
Notice the water level in the sump with each powering up of each return pump. Do not let water in sump to fall below a point where pumps begin to draw air. Mark this level on outside of sump, this is low water ALARM point in your head.
Check for leaks as before - hopefully you're in good shape. IF not ya gotta fix leakers - no way around it.
Assuming all is good to go - no leaks - now turn off your Mag9.5 and insure the water level begins to drop some, it's spraybar BREAKS SIPHON. Be ready to turn pump back on if it does not break siphon or you may overflow the sump. Correct this condition and repeat procedure. Once it works like it should, turn off this pump.
NOw repeat this check on the smaller pump, turning it off and checking for siphon break.
Both spraybars must BREAK SIPHON !!!!!
Once this is good and you are pleased - now you can turn on the little Mag7, let the tank flow stabalize some - and slowly open the ball valve feeding the refugium. Just open it a tad. You'll see water begin to flow though the 1/2" tubing over to refugium. Watch it close - WATCH the level in the refugium, and make sure the dual 1" bulkhead are handling the flowrate. If not - back off on the ball valve until it just barely tickles into the refugium.
Once you got this turn on the Mag9.5.
Repeat - by just barely opening the ball valve on the 3/4" tubing feeding the refugium. REALLY WATCH the level now in the refugium, cause you have TWO pumps feeding it. Balance out this flow so the refugium is filled, and flowing nicely out the (2) bulkheads. I run mine very slow - and the level in the refugium never even gets halfway up the center of either bulkhead.
That's it .........
Good luck if you go this route ............
bigeyedfish
Member
Nice plan broomer, i've got my setup a little differently. Its still getting put together so once its done i'll hopefully have access to a digital camera to post pics. The two pump plan was appealing to me but i was afraid of heating my 55gal too much. ALso i figured a Mag 7 is plenty of power for that size tank. what do u think?
broomer5
Active Member
Reuben:
I use CaribSea special grade seafloor reef sand. It's sort of expensive, but I like the stuff. Not as fine as their Agramax oolite or the Soutdown stuff - but again - I like it for DSB's. Against what many people claim is the best that I've read - but it's my tank.
I also added some live sand on top after my intial algae bloom subsided. You can see the layering - and there are lots of worms from the live rock now in the DSB - very exciting ( as exciting as the appearance of worms in a tank of saltwater can be I guess )
SaltyJay18:
A Mag7 is ideal for that size tank IMO.
Other's may agree/diagree - but that's the whole idea with BB's. I use one.
I look forward to seeing your set up if you get some pics.
Krusk:
Thank you and - You're most welcome !
I use CaribSea special grade seafloor reef sand. It's sort of expensive, but I like the stuff. Not as fine as their Agramax oolite or the Soutdown stuff - but again - I like it for DSB's. Against what many people claim is the best that I've read - but it's my tank.
I also added some live sand on top after my intial algae bloom subsided. You can see the layering - and there are lots of worms from the live rock now in the DSB - very exciting ( as exciting as the appearance of worms in a tank of saltwater can be I guess )
SaltyJay18:
A Mag7 is ideal for that size tank IMO.
Other's may agree/diagree - but that's the whole idea with BB's. I use one.
I look forward to seeing your set up if you get some pics.
Krusk:
Thank you and - You're most welcome !
S
saltfreak4
Guest
I have tried to get to this link, but can't get it to open. :thinking: