New RO/DI unit, have a few questions.

yannifish

Active Member
Hello everyone.
I just got my new RO/DI unit today, it is the BRS 75 gpd 5-Stage Plus system, and I got a booster pump for it since I'm on a well.
Now the booster pump came with a pressure switch that turns the pump off, it's meant to be used with an float valve. I won't be using the unit with a float valve, but was wondering if I can have a ball valve after the pressure switch in the product water line (after the DI unit). I would have a permanent water supply to the unit, and would just open and close the ball valve to use the unit, with the pressure switch turning the pump on and off. Would this work?
Also, when I first run the unit to flush it (on hour according to the manufacturer) do I need to run water through the DI unit? It seems like it would just waste DI resin.
Thanks!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468297
Hello everyone.
I just got my new RO/DI unit today, it is the BRS 75 gpd 5-Stage Plus system, and I got a booster pump for it since I'm on a well.
Now the booster pump came with a pressure switch that turns the pump off, it's meant to be used with an float valve. I won't be using the unit with a float valve, but was wondering if I can have a ball valve after the pressure switch in the product water line (after the DI unit)Yes it would serve as the same function as a float valve and would turn the pump off. The pressure switch relies on backpressure. I would have a permanent water supply to the unit, and would just open and close the ball valve to use the unit, with the pressure switch turning the pump on and off. Would this work? Yes
Also, when I first run the unit to flush it (on hour according to the manufacturer) do I need to run water through the DI unit? It seems like it would just waste DI resin. Did you already install the DI resin in the canisters.....If not you could just leave your DI canister empty for the 1st hour or so and run the unit without the DI, or if you've already installed the DI resin you could snip the line coming off the pressure vessel leading to the DI canister and put a valve in place that would direct water directly from the membrane out 1 line or with the same valve if it's turned a certain way it would direct water directly to the DI canister.....AWI units use to have a DI bypass valve installed on some of their units, so you could get drinking water from them. Basically the same principle you'd just have to purchase the correct valve to do so.....
Thanks!
 

yannifish

Active Member
Okay, sounds good.
I'm just need to call to get a replacement part now. A fitting broke during shipment.

Oh well.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Okay, so I got the RO system hung on the wall and have a replacement fitting coming for the DI unit.
I got everything all hooked up, and without the booster pump I couldn't get any water out of the product line. With the pump, I got product water, but the psi within the system was 90 psi.

Is that okay? The instruction say "to ensure longevity of the seals keep water pressure under 80psi". Will I be okay at 90? And if not, any idea how I can turn the pump down?
Also, is it okay if the unit stays pressurized between uses?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
If you go to BRS website under their video section there is a video on the booster pump and they talk about making adjustments to the booster pump.....I'd advise to watch the video, but in a nut shell there is an allen adjustment on the front of the pump. That is where the adjustment would be made......If you can't find me the link shoot me a PM, I have the link to the video on my phone and can shoot it to you!!!!!!
 

yannifish

Active Member
Yeah, I got it figured out, thanks. Have it tuned down to 75psi.
What is normal for a TDS reading post RO membrane? I was getting 9-10 tonight after I ran it for a half hour.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Glad you figured it out....Not sure on reading....I've never taken a reading post membrane.....If I ever get the time, I need to plumb my new meter inline after the membrane so I can monitor what your talking about.....I honestly think that number can and will vary depending what the input TDS reading is as well.
 

yannifish

Active Member
I didn't take any readings pre membrane, so I'm not really sure what it is like going into the system. Maybe tomorrow.
Great customer service at BRS. Took two minutes to get the parts shipped. The guy said he'd have a couple shipped, and they're even already wrapped in Teflon tape.
Called this morning and they shipped this afternoon.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Oh yeah!!!!!! I have their site as an icon on my Iphone, so I can easily order what I need between stops at work........
I run 2 dual TDS meters on my unit.....I have a lead on my input water from the water source, so I can constantly monitor what the water quality is going into the unit, and the other lead was on the output water......Through my re working of my RO/DI unit, I have 1 lead on the input, 1 lead on the water going into the membrane, and the other TDS meter will be plumbed into the line coming off the membrane before it goes to the first DI canister. (I'm actually running dual DI canisters on my unit), and the other lead off the TDS meter will be on the output (good) water.......
 

yannifish

Active Member
Yeah, I'll definitely be ordering stuff from them again.
I have one dual meter, one probe after the RO membrane and another after the DI unit (after I get that plumbed in).
I might get another DI unit, depending on how fast I go through resin. I figured I might as well start with one.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I've run dual DI's since 2005 on my unit.....When the first canister gets exhausted I pull it and swap the 2nd to the 1st position and put the new resin in the 2nd canister.....
 

yannifish

Active Member
Is it okay for the unit to stay under pressure between uses? Just 35 psi, that's the pressure in my house.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468858
Is it okay for the unit to stay under pressure between uses? Just 35 psi, that's the pressure in my house.
Shouldn't be an issue. But wow, 35psi on is your house pressure? You really could probably use a booster pump. Efficiency is going to be pretty low at those pressures, but should still work none the less.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468862
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468858
Is it okay for the unit to stay under pressure between uses? Just 35 psi, that's the pressure in my house.
I see no problem leaving it under pressure. It's built for that. It should also help your booster pump out a little bit if it starts off at at 35psi instead of 0.
Sounds good, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///t/391212/new-ro-di-unit-have-a-few-questions#post_3468862
I see no problem leaving it under pressure. It's built for that. It should also help your booster pump out a little bit if it starts off at at 35psi instead of 0.
wow I really need to get into these threads from the beginning.

didn't realize he got one with a pump.
Haha, yup, I have a booster pump. When the unit is running the pressure is 75 psi. I haven't figured out what the product water to waste water ratio is yet, but it seems decent. When the pump is off the pressure drops down to 35 psi.
 

yannifish

Active Member
I got the part I needed today and got my DI unit hooked up. Because of how I have it set up right now the DI unit drains when it is not in use. Is there any reason it should stay filled with water?
 
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