New Tank Baby!
- Thread starter valgae
- Start date
valgae
Member
wow ok i get how flow would be restricted by the check valve i have on now. took it of an looked down the pipe. what if i just put threaded plugs in the drilled return holes and do returns going over the back of the tank. no flood if the tank loses power. i already checked the tank in case i lose power and the sump fills about 1'' below the rim(29g). just really gettin sressed out.
scsinet
Active Member
Yeah, you can do that... it would just be a shame to waste those returns you drilled in.
I just realized that my idea of going up and over with a bleed hole wouldn't work because your returns aren't siphoning if power is lost, gravity will push the water down, not a siphon.
Yeah your choices are to either stick with a check valve option or to abandon them and go up and over like you were talking about
BTW... there is nothing that says you can't run multiple check valves in line for redundancy... Obviously though you'd want to go to the flapper style that puts very little pressure on the pump.
I just realized that my idea of going up and over with a bleed hole wouldn't work because your returns aren't siphoning if power is lost, gravity will push the water down, not a siphon.
Yeah your choices are to either stick with a check valve option or to abandon them and go up and over like you were talking about
BTW... there is nothing that says you can't run multiple check valves in line for redundancy... Obviously though you'd want to go to the flapper style that puts very little pressure on the pump.
valgae
Member
ok yes you do need a bleed hole on up and over return
. mine makes a crazy strong syphon. i got the mag 18 because i wanted to keep my tank looking as clean as poss. w/ no powerheads. but i think im losing flow do to pressure. right? can i tee the return and get flow back? i have two 1 1/4'' drains so that should be 910gph each, but only one is all the way open the second is barely open any. that is how i know that im not getting the return i want.
fats71
Active Member
Originally Posted by VALgae
http:///forum/post/2579953
ITS DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Well this was my first tank being drilled and doing my own plumbing. man what an experience. ok so.......
problem #1
the bulkheads are leaking. is there any kinda of wrench to help tighten these i did use nylon thread. i know they're on right. not leaking from the washer leaking through the threading. silicone maybe?
problem #2
how much did yall have to tinker w/ your tanks before intake=output. messed w it for 2 hours last night. the ball valves are so tight that i either turn them too much or not enough. there ia a ball on the return but dont want to throttle back the pump. realy not a problem. more just a PIA. k time for pics!
oh yeah i have no bubbles going back in even w/o any thing breaking the drain water.
I did not silicone any of my pipes running from my mag12 just made sure they were tight and have not had a drop of water yet and if it starts the salt creep should seal it I hope.. It worked on my hose from my overflow wrapped a wash cloth around it and wham a couple days later salt creep sealed her up. I know it is not the best solution but my tank and plumbing are temp as I think we are moving to florida in the next month or two..
scsi and them guys are pros and I would certainly make sure to listen to them as I said pros.
http:///forum/post/2579953
ITS DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Well this was my first tank being drilled and doing my own plumbing. man what an experience. ok so.......
problem #1
the bulkheads are leaking. is there any kinda of wrench to help tighten these i did use nylon thread. i know they're on right. not leaking from the washer leaking through the threading. silicone maybe?
problem #2
how much did yall have to tinker w/ your tanks before intake=output. messed w it for 2 hours last night. the ball valves are so tight that i either turn them too much or not enough. there ia a ball on the return but dont want to throttle back the pump. realy not a problem. more just a PIA. k time for pics!
oh yeah i have no bubbles going back in even w/o any thing breaking the drain water.
I did not silicone any of my pipes running from my mag12 just made sure they were tight and have not had a drop of water yet and if it starts the salt creep should seal it I hope.. It worked on my hose from my overflow wrapped a wash cloth around it and wham a couple days later salt creep sealed her up. I know it is not the best solution but my tank and plumbing are temp as I think we are moving to florida in the next month or two..
scsi and them guys are pros and I would certainly make sure to listen to them as I said pros.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by VALgae
http:///forum/post/2598077
doc? scsi? i would like to have this done by this wknd.
I'm assuming you are trying to get more flow?
If so, I'd say the first thing to try is to upsize the plumbing from the pump. It appears to be 3/4 pipe.... I'd come straight out of the pump into a 3/4 to 1" reducing fitting (or "expanding" fitting) to go right to 1" pipe. That should help you out quite a bit.
You can also squeeze a bit more flow by using the thinwall PVC pipe. The thinwall stuff has a slightly larger I.D, making it a bit "larger" for the size.
http:///forum/post/2598077
I'm assuming you are trying to get more flow?
If so, I'd say the first thing to try is to upsize the plumbing from the pump. It appears to be 3/4 pipe.... I'd come straight out of the pump into a 3/4 to 1" reducing fitting (or "expanding" fitting) to go right to 1" pipe. That should help you out quite a bit.
You can also squeeze a bit more flow by using the thinwall PVC pipe. The thinwall stuff has a slightly larger I.D, making it a bit "larger" for the size.
scsinet
Active Member
The amount of water a pipe can carry has to do wtih it's area, not diameter... so looking at the end of a pipe, you need to figure out the area of the inside of the pipe.
So imagine a .75" circle (this is not perfect because pipes are measured by outside diameter, but anyway...) a .75" pipe is 0.44 sq inches. A 1" pipe is 0.78 sq inches. So you can see that even though the pipe is only .25" larger, it's almost twice as big as far as water carrying capability.
But that also means that (2) 3/4" pipes is better than one 1/2". So here is what I'd do...
Purchase (3) 0.75" to 1" reducing fittings, one with a threaded 3/4" side, two with solvent.
Place each into a 1" "T" fitting. Then thread it onto the pump using the threaded fitting, and run 3/4" pipes out of the others. That should give you a setup with little restriction.
So imagine a .75" circle (this is not perfect because pipes are measured by outside diameter, but anyway...) a .75" pipe is 0.44 sq inches. A 1" pipe is 0.78 sq inches. So you can see that even though the pipe is only .25" larger, it's almost twice as big as far as water carrying capability.
But that also means that (2) 3/4" pipes is better than one 1/2". So here is what I'd do...
Purchase (3) 0.75" to 1" reducing fittings, one with a threaded 3/4" side, two with solvent.
Place each into a 1" "T" fitting. Then thread it onto the pump using the threaded fitting, and run 3/4" pipes out of the others. That should give you a setup with little restriction.
valgae
Member
OK, well i've been working alot! finally done. ended up getting a mag9.5 and using 1'' spaflex for the return. used one of my origional drilled holes, used an elbow and put to small holes to break the siphon. just put some LR in the sump. i did a shallow bed w/ the sugar fine sand in the DT and an aragonite DSB in the fuge seeded from my existing tank. my water didnt even get cloudy! its looked like this since i added water! hopefully i can get my 50 moved over next week. any comments suggestions?
also CUC wise what should i use shallow vs. dsb?
