new to fuges

fishfreak1242

Active Member
So I finally decided to build my first fuge out of a 20 gal tank I have for my 55 gal fowlr. I have a few questions though. Is it worth building if I eventually want corals? What materials do I need? How does it work? What are some things that I can put in it and where can I get them? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

muggiwhplar

Member
I don't see why you wouldn't want a fuge if you're going to have corals eventually. A fuge will help to keep the water cleaner, and therefore keep the corals healthier. As for how to build it, it's a lot like a typical sump, except you have a section with a DSB and/or some LR rubble, and some macroalgae.
 
Originally Posted by fishfreak1242
http:///forum/post/2457147
Which is better, HOB or beneath the tank in the stand?
I think that both the HOB or the under would be adequate enough to have a sufficient enough Chaeto but your undertank might hold more Macroalgae and other things that eat Detrius and keep nitrates down with the chaeto. Lets just say bottom holds more chaeto so more beneficial with alot of other stuff haha. Sorry trying to help but might not make sense
 

apos

Member
55 is getting a little big for some of the easy DIY plans for fuges: a good macro fuge, to be successful for either pods or sufficient macro to have decent export, should probably be about 10% of the current total water volume at least (and including any sump volume as part of the total system volume). That's 5.5 gals, which is bigger than most of the aquaclear mods. So an under-stand fuge would probably be best in this case.
Chaeto doesn't eat detritus (in fact, you want to keep detritus as far away from your fuge as you can), it eats nitrates, which are in the water collumn. Mangroves are these days considered a little iffy in a reef tank because they can compete with corals for nutrients.
Also, if you have a FOWLR, I'm assuming you probably have some non-reef safe fish. If so, how are you going to work that?
 

fishfreak1242

Active Member
Originally Posted by Apos
http:///forum/post/2457376
55 is getting a little big for some of the easy DIY plans for fuges: a good macro fuge, to be successful for either pods or sufficient macro to have decent export, should probably be about 10% of the current total water volume at least (and including any sump volume as part of the total system volume). That's 5.5 gals, which is bigger than most of the aquaclear mods. So an under-stand fuge would probably be best in this case.
Chaeto doesn't eat detritus (in fact, you want to keep detritus as far away from your fuge as you can), it eats nitrates, which are in the water collumn. Mangroves are these days considered a little iffy in a reef tank because they can compete with corals for nutrients.
Also, if you have a FOWLR, I'm assuming you probably have some non-reef safe fish. If so, how are you going to work that?
I accually specifically chose reef-safe fish for when I get corals. I have a clownfish, pajama cardinal fish and a blenny.
 

apos

Member
I would say that an overflow box is pretty important.
Lets imagine setting up the tank like you say: you create a siphon to pull water out of your tank and then a pump to get it back in from the fuge. What happens when the power goes off/is turned off (like when you do a water change, a feeding, etc.)?
One of two things, depending on how deep the siphon end is in the tank
1) the siphon will keep going, pulling water out of your tank until your fuge overflows.
2) the siphon will break once the water level drops too low and you'll have to completely restart it every time.
What the overflow box allows for is an eternal siphon AND stopping active draining of the tank at just the right water level. That's because the overflow in the tank is piped into a compartment in the back, and this compartment is separated from the drain by a wall. When the power goes off, water will drain out of the tank until the level drops below the teeth of the box in the tank. Then the siphon will equalize, and no more water will flow over the wall and into the drain. During this process, your sump level will rise, but you will have left room in the sump for just this occurance, and the drain will stop before it overflows. So now your tank/sump is automatically balanced.
And when you turn the power back on, the return pump will drain the sump until the DT water rises to the level of the teeth... at which point the siphon, which is still intact, will simply start pulling water and sending it down the drain again.... and now your tank/sump is balanced again.
The box also protects livestock from feeling any hard suction if they get near the box/siphon: the many teeth in the box spread this force over a wide area. This would also protect your box from getting clogged with a snail that crawls into the siphon (and this, by the way, WOULD overflow the tank for sure.
 
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