New to Saltwater

[cmschmitz24]

Hi all, I’ve recently decided that I want to convert my freshwater tank into saltwater however, I’m a bit nervous and unsure about a few things. I’ve been doing some research and understand it’s a process.

I currently have a 65 gallon tall, cascade canister filter, heater, air pump, the works etc. I only have 3 long fin tetras and a bristle nose pleco at the moment knowing I’m wanting to change, and I will be moving in March.

Can I use the same canister filter with saltwater? Same filter media, carbon, etc.?
What about the gravel?
I hear air bubblers are not okay for saltwater...
How about the lighting? Will I need to get a different bulb?

So I guess what I’m asking, what can I reuse from my freshwater tank?

Thanks! PS any other tips or advice is appreciated

 

[lmforbis]

I’d ditch the canister for a hang on the back filter. You will need quite a bit of rock. I usually start with dry rock, Pukani is my favorite. And add a single piece of live rock from a clean system. That rock is going to be your biological filtration.

Ditch the gravel and replace with argonite sand. We don’t use gravel or even crushed coral. Just make sure it is argonite not silica sand.

No air bubblers but you’ll want at least one, but probably 2, power heads mounted on opposite ends of the tank.
If you are only planning on fish any lighting will do but fresh water lighting will not look very good. You’ll want a different bulb that is more blue/white.

You can reuse the tank, the heater, and the light fixture (if you only want fish). I’d bleach the tank and heater before you use them.

Before you get started you’ll need some good salt water test kits (initially to monitor the the progress of the initial cycling then going forward to keep track of water quality) a source of RODI water (no tap water), and a refractometer (not a hydrometer). Expect the cycle to take a good 6 weeks or longer, NO fish during the cycle.

You will also want to set up a quarantine system. 10 gallon Aquarium, Sponge filter (here you can reuse your air pump), heater. Bare bottom with a view pieces of PVC pipe. All fish should be quarantined for at least 30 days to be sure they are disease free when they go into the tank. The diseases marine fish get are harder to treat than fresh water diseases and can’t be treated in the display tank. Many new hobbyists have had all their fish whipped out in a matter of days because they added a sick fish to the tank.

 

[cmschmitz24]

I’d ditch the canister for a hang on the back filter. You will need quite a bit of rock. I usually start with dry rock, Pukani is my favorite. And add a single piece of live rock from a clean system. That rock is going to be your biological filtration.

Ditch the gravel and replace with argonite sand. We don’t use gravel or even crushed coral. Just make sure it is argonite not silica sand.

No air bubblers but you’ll want at least one, but probably 2, power heads mounted on opposite ends of the tank.
If you are only planning on fish any lighting will do but fresh water lighting will not look very good. You’ll want a different bulb that is more blue/white.

You can reuse the tank, the heater, and the light fixture (if you only want fish). I’d bleach the tank and heater before you use them.

Before you get started you’ll need some good salt water test kits (initially to monitor the the progress of the initial cycling then going forward to keep track of water quality) a source of RODI water (no tap water), and a refractometer (not a hydrometer). Expect the cycle to take a good 6 weeks or longer, NO fish during the cycle.

You will also want to set up a quarantine system. 10 gallon Aquarium, Sponge filter (here you can reuse your air pump), heater. Bare bottom with a view pieces of PVC pipe. All fish should be quarantined for at least 30 days to be sure they are disease free when they go into the tank. The diseases marine fish get are harder to treat than fresh water diseases and can’t be treated in the display tank. Many new hobbyists have had all their fish whipped out in a matter of days because they added a sick fish to the tank.

Thanks for the info!

So a normal HOB filter with what type of media? Why that vs a canister? Because of the rock?

And what type of bleach to clean the tank and heater? Or what is that process like?

 

[lmforbis]

Canisters tend to be major nitrate factories. This is bad for salt water. They can work but you need to clean them thoroughly and religiously every week. That is a lot of work and it would negate any bio filtration you would get from the media. The HOB filter will mostly just give you mechanical filtration maybe some chemical filtration if you use carbon. In my opinion you could do it with out a filter. Water changes and lots of rock to simulate a reef environment for biofiltration along with a lot of water movement (from the power heads).
I don’t use any mechanical filtration on my tank. I have a sump that everything flows through (really just increases my water volume another 30 gallons and allows me to hide ugly equipment). In my sump I have a protein skimmer, some rock rubble, and some macro algae (chaeto morpha). It has been running this way for years. My tank requires very little maintenance other than water changes. Initially it was more work but after the first year it got really easy.

 

[lmforbis]

For cleaning normal bleach at 10%. Make sure no detergents are in it. You just let everything air dry for 24 hours and all is good. This is how I clean my quarantine tank after I use it. I work in medical research, 10% bleach will kill HIV, Hep A, B, C, D and E and tuberculosis so it should kill any fish parasite.

 

[cmschmitz24]

Canisters tend to be major nitrate factories. This is bad for salt water. They can work but you need to clean them thoroughly and religiously every week. That is a lot of work and it would negate any bio filtration you would get from the media. The HOB filter will mostly just give you mechanical filtration maybe some chemical filtration if you use carbon. In my opinion you could do it with out a filter. Water changes and lots of rock to simulate a reef environment for biofiltration along with a lot of water movement (from the power heads).
I don’t use any mechanical filtration on my tank. I have a sump that everything flows through (really just increases my water volume another 30 gallons and allows me to hide ugly equipment). In my sump I have a protein skimmer, some rock rubble, and some macro algae (chaeto morpha). It has been running this way for years. My tank requires very little maintenance other than water changes. Initially it was more work but after the first year it got really easy.

Is going from an FO to an FOWLR a big difference?

I’ve started to write a list on what I all need but there are so many different articles and videos out there.

I would like to hide everything in my stand so I assume a sump would be best.

 

[lmforbis]

FOWLR (fish only with live rock) is the only way to go other than some degree of reef. Fish only doesn’t provide the best environment for healthy fish. Like I said before the rock is your primary filtration. You only need a little live rock to seed the tank and the dry rock will becom live rock.

 

[cmschmitz24]

so I need (for equipment) a sump, skimmer, and power heads. And live rock would be the media in the sump filter/tank. How big of a sump would I need for my 65?

 

[jay0705]

Imforbis is spot on. Only bc I happen to be on here I'll comment. You don't need a sump or skimmer. With a hob filter no sump is needed. A skimmer is nice but not required for a fowlr tank. All that said, a sump is the most effective way to go. However you do want a drilled tank. Siphon is an option However during a power outage very iffy.
Live rock is the life blood of a sw tank. You will want it in your tank and some in your sump if you do one.

 

[cmschmitz24]

Thanks to both for all the information, it's appreciated!

It seems as I'm just starting that live rock and HOB filter are all I need to start the hobby.
Is a larger HOB filter better or should I stay in the size fitted to my tank size?

However, I'd like to make things easier on myself going forward and all the reading I've been doing seems that a sump w/all the other equipment would be best... I'm looking at sumps, and they seem to be all DIY made? Would you recommend a sump for a beginner?

Obviously my tank currently is not drilled, and I'm not really looking into drilling my own tank, but with that being said are there options out there for all the equipment without having a drilled tank?

 

[lmforbis]

No you can put the live rock in the tank. The sump isn’t necessary. The rock is your aqua scape. A sump is nice to have. A skimmer is nice but not necessary.
Here is my tank. All that rock is my live rock. In my sump I just have small chunks that didn’t fit into the aquas cape.

 

[jay0705]

I don't have a sump, I use hob. If I did it over again, I would buy a predrilled tank and use a sump. Imforbis has a sump and you can see how there is no "clutter" in her tank. Heater,filter, ect is in the sump

 

[beaslbob]

I would start the tank with macro algae which are algaes that kinda look like plants. And use a 1/4"sq plastic grid (egg crate) as a partition to separate the macros from the live stock.

I would let if run for a week to get the macros established and conditioning the system.

Then add 1 male molly and not add food for a week.

then add a couple of female mollies and start feeding 1 flake per day.

After a few more weeks add the more expensive marine only fish.

The idea is to get the macros conditioning the tank right from the start and to add fish slowly so the macros keep ahead of the bioload.

live rock, live sand, skimmers, filters are optional.

Some powerheads for circulation will help

my .02

 

[lmforbis]

I would never cycle a tank with a fish even a cheap molly. Unless it is acclimated slowly to salt water it will die of osmotic shock before the ammonia gets it.

I wouldn’t add macro algae until the tank is done with the initial cycle. The macro algae will use up the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that feed the bacteria that need to colonize the tank, slowing the process down. Like any other cell in culture you need to feed the bacteria to get optimal growth. If something else is consuming their food growth will be slowed down. I am a strong believer in macro algae as a natural means of getting rid of waste just not until the bacteria has fully colonized the rock and water parameters are stable.

Long term, goal is to have an adequate bacterial colony to handle the waste with the macro algae helping with nitrate and phosphate. The macros are not intended to do it all.

 

[beaslbob]

Thanks to both for all the information, it's appreciated!

It seems as I'm just starting that live rock and HOB filter are all I need to start the hobby.
Is a larger HOB filter better or should I stay in the size fitted to my tank size?

However, I'd like to make things easier on myself going forward and all the reading I've been doing seems that a sump w/all the other equipment would be best... I'm looking at sumps, and they seem to be all DIY made? Would you recommend a sump for a beginner?

Obviously my tank currently is not drilled, and I'm not really looking into drilling my own tank, but with that being said are there options out there for all the equipment without having a drilled tank?

IMHO you can make a HOB overflow from $20 worth of pvc. It is just as reliable as a drilled tank. But any system with a sump does add complexity.