Newbie starting out...

govolsguy31

govolsguy31

New Member
Ok, so I've decided to convert my freshwater tank to saltwater after reading on here for almost a year. I've got a protein skimmer and am going to get a canister filter (for now. I'm sure I'll switch to sump eventually) and a power head or two next week. I have a question about cycling the tank. I would assume I need to have some water already mixed and running in the tank before buying LR and LS, right? And do I just fill it up like normal then when the LR and LS comes just empty enough to make room so it doesn't overflow?
Also, the guy at the LFS was talking to me about a "product" that cycles your tank in a week. It sounded like some chemical or something. What the best/ easiest way to get the tank to cycle. Finally, does anyone recommend a certain testing kit?
Any and all input is appreciated!
 
T

thomas712

Guest
You can start the saltwater solution and then add the LS and LR when you get it. That in itself will start a cycle, you will not need to purchase any product to cycle your tank any faster. A mere pinch of flake food will start your cycle or a dead raw shrimp will even do it.
Most Salifert test kits do well.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
It tends to make a mess of the tank if you add the sand after the water is in the tank. I prefer to have the water mixed up and ready in totes, add about 1/3 of the tank full of water,add the base rock (FIRST) then add the sand in around the LR. so that it locks the rock into place. better yet if you are going to have alot of LR you could put egg crate down on the floor of the tank then add the LR and then sand on top of it. Then bring the water up to full by pouring the water over a pail or something inside the tank so it doesnt mess with the LS much. Then add the LR on top of the base rock.
Cycle the tank the old fashioned way, take its time and it will be done right.
I use siefert and some API kits some are the same test so i do both and they always come out the same.
 
govolsguy31

govolsguy31

New Member
That all makes sense. How long does it usually take to cycle a tank (55 gal)? I'm in no way in a hurry. Just wondering for reference. And is there an advantage to putting down egg crate? Is it simply to keep the tank from cracking? And are we talking about the foam stuff?
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
we are talking about the grids that go under flourecent lighting in commercial applications, its a plastic grate that has 1" squares in it, usually white or silver. the idea is to spread the weight of the rock out and eliminate the pressure points that rock distributes on the bottom glass becuase it usually sits on just a couple points. You will notice that the rocks kind of lock into the grids and make it much more stable as well. I would say its almost a must if you are having any sort of burrowing livestock like an eel or engineer goby or the like.
Most tanks cycle in about 4-6 weeks. some longer some shorter.
There is some great info on tank cycling on the sticky up above this area.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
fish only or reef will help determine what tests you need as well as what specific corals need as far as additives.
the basics for all tanks is ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and PH. you need a refractometer or hydrometer (not plastic) to measure the salinity, if you are keeping corals you will need a phospahte and an alkalinty tester. If corals have specific needs you may want magnesium and iodine.
The idea is never to dose anything you can't test for first.
 
govolsguy31

govolsguy31

New Member
Yeah, I read threw all that sticky on tank cycling. I just like to have all my basis covered before jumping into something like this. Helps me to have more than one opinion on stuff... I know exactly what you're talking about now with the egg crate. I just had a brain fart I guess. My bad...
I want to do a reef tank. The corals and anemones fascinate me just as much if not more than the fish themselves... I've read several places that refractometers are much more accurate than hydrometers. Is that true? Also (I know i'm asking alot of questions; sorry), is there any benefit to buying RO water from the LFS as opposed to mixing it in a big trash can with a pump or powerhead? I like the idea of always having some on hand...
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by govolsguy31
http:///forum/post/3262483
Yeah, I read threw all that sticky on tank cycling. I just like to have all my basis covered before jumping into something like this. Helps me to have more than one opinion on stuff... I know exactly what you're talking about now with the egg crate. I just had a brain fart I guess. My bad...
I want to do a reef tank. The corals and anemones fascinate me just as much if not more than the fish themselves... I've read several places that refractometers are much more accurate than hydrometers. Is that true? Also (I know i'm asking alot of questions; sorry), is there any benefit to buying RO water from the LFS as opposed to mixing it in a big trash can with a pump or powerhead? I like the idea of always having some on hand...

I mix RO water in a big 37g Plastic trash can marked FISH ONLY…to do water changes you must have something to mix the saltwater in.
Never use tap water, it will create the worst hair algae mess you have ever seen. Either buy Wal-Mart RO water or install your own unit, for top offs . Either way you need a big tub, a utility pump and tubing. Gone are the days of just getting the chlorine out and adding the water to the tank. After the first setup of saltwater you must allow the new water change water to mix in a tub 24 hours before you use it.
Leaving the tub open allows for possible contaminates like children’s food and toys, cleaning supplies or dog hair. Covering the tub won’t allow for air exchange and you land up with a sour smell in the tub. So for mixing my water for a change I use a table cloth draped over, I gave up trying to store mixed saltwater in a tub because of the sour smell...I have had no trouble keeping RO water on hand in a jug, so it must be the plastic can.
It is true about plastic hydrometers. However you don’t need to be all that accurate unless you are doing hypo. I have used a plastic one for years…I also have a glass floating one in a big test tube for a more accurate reading if I feel I need it.
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
To me the most important thing on starting a salt tank is to simply first establish plant life like macro algaes then do the rest.
That way the waste products from the fish are recycled into oxygen and and fish food.
my .02
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
i had a glass floaty one until i busted it in my sump a couple weeks ago and it contaminated my water a bit.
I also had a back up plastic one and the arm just fell right out of it. So now today, im going to the LFS to get a new floaty glass one as i can't afford a refractometer right now. Maybe in a month or so.
 
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