Newbie with a 20G tall questions!

artbymollie

New Member
Hello Forum!
I have a 20 gallon tall that is currently empty I had tropicals in it for about 4 months but had to tear it down to remodel the room it was in. so currently I have two guppies two mollies and a sword tail in my 15g. so I'm thinking this is the best time to start my saltwater tank I have always wanted!
so my questions are what do I need to get started I have a heater an air stone an Aquion quite flow filter and a normal hood with a power glow florescent light.
from my research I have done so far I think I will need a protein skimmer, a couple power heads and obviously live sand and live rock. I have also heard that you can acclimate mollies and guppies to salt water. a friend of mine told me I can actually use the fish I have currently to get the salt water tank cycling.
any help would be great! thanks!
Molls
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
WELCOME TO THE BOARDS!
I'm glad you came to us! Stick around and maybe you can learn something.
Your tank is a good tank to start with. I started with a 20g tank six years ago for my first tank. Since then I've had all kinds, but I have actually gone back to a 20g tank recently.
You don't need an air pump and an air stone in your tank. Air bubbles create a lot of salt creep that gets all over your tank, walls, equipment and powercords. It's a myth that air bubbles are harmful for saltwater fishes gills, however, all of the salt water splashing everywhere does create a bit of a safety hazard.
Make sure you have a heater that is saltwater safe. Not all of them are. Start with a good quality salt, like Instant Ocean to get started. You don't have to buy the most expensive salt if you are going to just have a fish only aquarium.
I just wanted to throw this out there - protein skimmers aren't absolutely "needed" they are just one of the many useful pieces of equipment that people use to help filter their water. Water changes, adequate filtration and an abundance of live rock and maybe even some decorative macroalgaes would be just as good if not better than a skimmer.
Why do you want freshwater fish in a saltwater tank? There are reasonably priced salt water fish that are great starter fish, like chromis, that are a really pretty blue, and usually about $4 each. It takes about 9 hours to completely drip acclimate a molly to saltwater. If you have the time and patience and that is the way you want to do it then go for it. I'm just saying there are better ways.
You will have to buy a couple of powerheads for your tank, however. This helps keep detritus off of your rocks and filtered out of the water. It also helps keep cyanobacteria and other algaes from forming. At bare minimum, buy one powerhead rated at 400 to 500gph.
Give us some pics of your new setup!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Oh, and do your research. Research is key to success in this hobby. Not one single person knows everything, even though there are a lot of experienced people around here. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and some people even use a combination of equipment and ideas for their tanks.
I highly suggest to start reading the articles at the top of the New Hobbyist forum. There you will find an abundance of information in getting started, that will help guide you in setting up and cycling your first tank.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
ALSO!!!
Since you and I have the same tank, I thought that this thread may be helpful in your learning... It's my tank build thread. It may be more complex then what you are looking at doing for your first tank, but I am sure that it will give you plenty of ideas for your own.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/387674/snakes-20g-nano-build-thread
 

artbymollie

New Member
thank you so much! its not that I wanted mollies in my tank its just something that my friend with a salt tank suggested just to get a feel for the whole salt water thing. I would rather have a strictly saltwater tank set up properly! I am going to do some more reading but you have been very helpful.
molls
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
A 24" long T5HO 2 bulb system, one actinic bulb and one daylight bulb would do nicely. They run anywhere from $50 to $100, depending on the seller and the quality of the light. For substrate, you could either go with 20 pounds of live sand, or 20 pounds of dry sand. Live sand is considered better, but I'm still not convinced. You could even go up to 30 pounds of dry aragonite sand if that's the only size they come in. I have 30 pounds in my 20g and I like the look.
Macroalgaes remove nitrate and phosphate from your system and prevent other nuisance algaes from growing. I suggest studying up on your macro algaes and finding some that are compatable with your fish stock list. I personally like varying types of caulerpa mexicana, pink galaxy, halimeda, shaving brush, mermaids winecup, red kelp, and red grape algaes. They are decorative, and as long as you keep them trimmed, you won't have any issues.
Could you list the fish that you want to keep? Maybe we can help you with that as well.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
The only reason why I say to go ahead and get the two bulb T5 system is because it can support the growth of macroalgaes, coralline algae (the pretty purple hard algae) and give you the ability to keep low light level corals later on when you want to step it up a notch.
 

artbymollie

New Member
thanks again! as for livestock I havn't got my heart set on any one kind of fish though I am partial to clowns! (stupid Disney) I want something Fairly hardy since I'm new but I am open to suggestion for combination options for a 20t this is all very exciting, I work at petsmart so I have access to some supplies at a employee discount also a friend of mine is going to give me a couple power heads. I will probably pick up the sand tomorrow from work we have Carib sea live sand and Argonite.should I get the salt for the water as well? anything else?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Hmm, ok... lol. Lots of questions!
Clownfish are very hardy. Try to buy two of them at the same time if you can. There are tons of fish choices out there, but with such a small tank, you need to stick with a variety of small fish. A pistol shrimp/goby pair are really fun to watch, do a little research on them. Clownfish are great, neon gobies are fun to watch clean your other fish, bicolor blennies are neat too. Firefish gobies are really fun to watch and one of my personal favorites. Keep in mind compatability issues, the amount of fish, and the aggressiveness of each one before your first purchase.
You got a long way to go before you can add any fish!
First and foremost, you can ONLY used purified fresh water. RO (Reverse Osmosis) DI (DeIonized) water is the best. Distilled water is also good, but really expensive. Use only purified fresh water for top offs. When your saltwater aquarium water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind, therefore you top off with fresh water. You need to go to the local water store, grocery store, or Wal-mart even and buy 20g of purified freshwater. Put it in your tank first, before anything else, and then add your salt. Instant Ocean is a popular favorite salt to use. In any case, measure out your salt and follow the directions to the letter. If you don't already have one, buy a Hydrometer. They will cost around 8 dollars, but you will be able to test the amount of salt in your water (salinity). You have to know your salinity level. Too low or too high and it won't support life. A salinity of 1.022 to 1.024 for fish only tanks is desirable. You mix your salt into your water with your powerheads. You will have to wait a full 24 hours before the next step.
The next step - look at your aquarium and see if the salt has desolved. The water should be completely clear and not cloudy. Measure the salt content with the hydrometer to make sure it is within the proper range. Install your filtration equipment - HOB filters, skimmers, etc. and mount your heater as well. Plug everything in and get it going. The water level in your tank will drop! Don't worry, that is a good thing. Next, add a few large chunks of base rock to the bottom of the tank. This will be your foundation for your other live rock. If you get any fish that like to dig holes, they won't be able to dig your foundation loose. Then add your sand to your tank. This will increase the water level in your tank. Then proceed on to the next step
Step 3.... Wait until your aquariums water clears up. Depending on the filtration equipment you are using, it will take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours for it to completely settle. Once your tank is clear, you can buy live rock and add it to your system. I like a lot of live rock in my tanks, because it helps with the biological filtration of the system. I put about 30 pounds in my 20g display and about 10 pounds in my sump. Live rock has bacteria, microbes, algaes, tiny crustaceans, worms, forams, diatoms, sponges, cnidarians and all manner of sea life growing on it. That is what makes live rock "live." Since the rock has been taken out of the ocean, and packed slightly wet, some organisms on your rock will be dead. This dead organic material has to decay, creating ammonia. Add your live rock to your tank and take out a little saltwater at a time in a clean container. Get your rock the way you want it to look. Caves, cliffs, overhangs, etc. Whatever you want. Once you have live rock in your tank, cut a small piece of shrimp and add it to the tank. Then put your lights on the aquarium and on an 8 hour timer. Then proceed to step 4...
Step 4.... Your is going to undergo a cycle. The Nitrogen Cycle to be exact. It's the process by which ammonia (created from the dead matter, and the decaying shrimp) will be converted into nitrite and then into nitrate by various bacteria that is building up in your system. Now is the best time to buy a test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Test your water every 5 days for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You will see a trend happening. Your ammonia will "spike" really high, and then it will level off and disappear. Nitrite will form shortly after, and then eventually ammonia and nitrite will completely disappear. Nitrate is then the end result of your cycle. During this time, your aquarium will undergo various changes. The first change you will notice is a brown algae bloom. This is diatoms. Diatoms are formed by excess silicate in your sand and water column. Eventually they will go away entirely. Next will be your algae stage, closer to when your cycle is complete. Algae live off of excess dissolved organic nutrients like nitrate and phosphate. Your tank will get an algae bloom, but not to worry, it can be maintained and controlled. Proceed to step 5...
Step 5... Once ammonia and nitrite are zero and your tank has set for a few extra days, add ONE fish. A hardy fish, preferably. I like clownfish because they are hardy. Some people prefer using a cheaper fish like a damsel as their first fish, but they are overly aggressive and they are little buggers to get out of an aquarium. Clownfish may be more expensive, but worth it. Don't add more than one fish per two weeks until you get the hang of it, and you have success. More aggressive fish are added last so that they can establish territories last. When you add your first fish, add a little macroalgae with it. Macroalgae is more than just decorative, it cleans the water, helps balance out pH, adds oxygen, removes heavy metals, and removes nitrate and phosphate from the water column. It also provides places for seahorses to hitch. lol
Step 6-20 and beyond... Read, read, read, read, read, read, read, research, research, research, research, research, and read read read some more. This hobby is very fun, and very entertaining. You just have to kind of get in to it and dig deep when it comes to the methods you want to use to filter your water. Your tank can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be. You, the aquarist, have to decide what is best for the health of your livestock.
I wrote this up for you specifically. This deals with an aquarium without a sump or closed loop.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Umm, you should probably get all reef safe fish for your tank. That way you don't have to tear your tank apart to catch the one that isn't. Most small fish ARE reef safe. If you ever wanted corals in the future, it would be as easy as just adding them in there.
The light I suggested will only keep low light corals such as mushrooms, xenia, zoanthids, protopalythoa, non-photo-synthetics (very difficult) and a few other types of corals. You may get away with a leather coral, but that would be pushing it.
Don't forget that most corals need to feed. So, you will have to buy some phytoplankton.
Also, keep in mind that the more fish you add, the more maintenance the aquarium will take. More fish, more fish waste. Obvious, I know... but it's got to be said. Also, the Nitrogen cycle lasts anywhere from one week to 30 days. If you feel the need to do a water change, the best time to do it during your cycle is when the ammonia is spiking. This will keep more live things on your live rock alive. HAH, that's a lot of lives.
I hope I've helped.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Jeez, I know I can't teach you everything in one thread, there is too much to learn, but I also wanted to add that a fishes stomach is about as big as it's eyeball. So, don't overfeed a fish or else you are just putting excess nutrirents into your tank. Fish like a variety of foods, and so do corals. So get some enriched frozen foods like brine and mysis to help supplement their flake diets. Don't feed pellet foods.
ANYWAYS, now I'm rambling.
 

artbymollie

New Member
This is perfect! thank you so much! am going to print this and keep it handy for refferences! thank you so much for all your extra time and effort I will be posting updates and pictures as I get it going I am so excited!
thanks,
molls
 

artbymollie

New Member
I have a freshwater tank so Im pretty familar with the nitrogen cycle and I know its a lot of patience and waiting. Im also aware of feeding practices but its good to know that salt is similar to fresh as far as over feeding goes! thanks agian you have been very helpful!
 

artbymollie

New Member
I dont plan on a ton of fish just a few fun nice colored ones to watch and keep my eco system running smoothly I know with a smaller tank I have to stay away from the fish that get real big but like I said I dont have my heart set on any one kind of fish. I know I have a Long time before Ill be ready to add fish this is where all the reading and reasearch I can do will come in handy!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Well, you've come to the right place. :D Glad I could help.
Here's a simple fish list for a 20g tank that is manageable:
2 clownfish
2 firefish gobies
1 bicolor blenny
1 neon goby
--
2 clownfish
1 watchman goby
1 shrimp goby
1 pistol shrimp
1 neon goby
--
2 clownfish
1 bicolor blenny
1 green banded goby
1 neon goby
1 firefish goby
--
There are actually tons of combinations, but those are the common combinations. Don't forget to start a build thread and post lots of pics on your thread! PM me when you get it all started. I'm anxious to find out. :D
 

tirtza

Member
Welcome Artbymollie! I'm a newbie too (I've only been in the salt water fish hobby for a little over 2 months). I have learned sooooo much from SWF.com! This is a thread that I found especially helpful, hopefully it'll help you along too :) https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/301033/101-tips-to-beginning-and-maintaining-a-saltwater-aquarium
Good luck! - Terri
 

gemmy

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Wolf http:///t/388235/newbie-with-a-20g-tall-questions#post_3422976
Care to explain about the pellet foods?
Pelleted foods lack the nutritional value that frozen foods can offer. They also are a source of phosphates and nitrate when added to the tank. They are OK once in awhile but not on a regular basis. Think of frozen as a gourmet meal, pellets as McDonald's and flake as potato chips.
 
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