nitrate help !

banner1

New Member
I have a 125 gallon fish only been set up for two years. has cc for substrate just found out after all this time that is not good.My nitrates are off the charts at 80 always have been but my fish have always been healthy but then again i have very hardy fish a maroon clown a banner fish green chromis. My other readings are amonia 0 nitrite 0 ph8.0.I want to add live sand to my tank but i was told to remove the cc this would be hard to do because i would have to take out almost all my live rock 100 pounds of it! Any suggestions would be great.
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Banner how deep is your CC substrate? If it is shallow enough, I would go to your local hardware store, purchase some very fine plastic screen, cut it to fit, place it over your CC base (Gravel vac the CC base first to eliminate as much debris as you can) and then cover the base and screen with live sand. I've done this in the past, and IMO it works well. Over time the CC will break down in the water putting calcium (which you want) into the water table. As the level drops, you keep adding live sand. Good luck
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Actually its not too bad - be sure and turn all your pumps off before you add the sand otherwise you get a major sandstorm. the netting and live sand can be added with the live rock in place. If you establish a plenum in a tank, you do the same thing if you want to have your live rock sitting on the glass - i.e. netting and plenum material are cut out to go around the liverock. I personally would get a big rubbermaid tub or tarp, move my liverock out, gravel vac, siphon off as much of the water as possible, place the screen, cover with live sand, let it settle for a little while, then replace your live rock, but it really depends on how established your tank is and how complicated your LR structure is.
 

apos

Member
banner: have you considered a remote deep sand bed? You can set one up for less than 25$ in most cases, and people seem to have a lot of success with them: not only are they cheap, but you can add/remove them with ease. Pretty much ALL they do is cut down nitrates.
I would also hesitate to blame your cc alone. Could be lots of other problems all at once contributing.
 

petjunkie

Active Member
You can leave the cc but you have to be cleaning it out regularly with a siphon, every water change or stuff builds up in it, that's what's causing the nitrates. If you want to remove it you will have to clean it before too or it's likely to cause a huge nitrate and possible ammonia spike, it will also make a huge mess of your tank once all the stuff gets loose.
 

mcbdz

Active Member

Best way I've found to remove the cc is to take the bell end off your syphon hose and suction it out with each water change until you have a bare bottom. Then you can use a piece of pvc pipe and pour the sand through it to the bottom of the tank without as much of a storm. Just take out as much cc as you can get with normal w/c. Keep a close check on water para.
Can you give more info on your setup?What filtration do you have other than LS/LR? what is your GPH? What livestock? How often and what do you feed?
These will help us see if there is anything else you may have causing the nitrate issue.
 

banner1

New Member
I have a prizm delux protein skimmer a hang on back filter with sponges 100 pounds live rock 3 power heads. livestock maroon clown banner fish greenchromis-2 mated pair coral banded shrimp sallylightfoot featherduster .
 

fromoe

Member
if it was my tank, i would put in the effort and remove the cc. down the road you will be happy you did
 

apos

Member
A remote sandbed is basically just a super cheap way (comparatively) to get the denitrification benefits of a deep sand bed with far far less risk: you can simply remove it at any time if you need.
Basically all it is is a 5gal or larger bucket almost completely full of sand (round and argo works best, but cheap sand is just fine) which you plumb into your system by having some steady flow over the top of the sand and then it drains out again, again from the top. The point of the flow is simply to be strong enough to keep any detrituts from settling on the sand, which would just make the sand a nutrient sink (and thus not last as long or even become a nitrate problem instead of solution). Diffusion does the rest: the water spreads throughout the sand i the bucket (hard to believe for some people, but its inevitable) and gets dinitrified in the low oxygen environment, then leaches back out into the water on top.
That's it. No lights (definately no lights: you'd grow diatoms and other nuisance things). No macro algae. Nothing special at all. Again, the flow is simply to keep any detritus from settling. You are not trying to pump or push water through the sand. It will diffuse on its own.
It's a very cheap DIY: probably cheaper and easier to maintain than a coil denitrator. All you need is a 5 gal container (or more, you can even use a spare tank if you have one) like an old Instant Ocean bucket, a weak ass powerhead/water pump (you'll only need about 140 gph or even less: you may have to dial it down with a ball valve even), plumbing supplies like bulkheads if you are going to drill into the bucket, and then the sand. And maybe a lid (since a 24/7 dark environment is best). That's it. Most people have all the supplies for it just sitting around.
Search for plans online.
 

apos

Member
Oh, and if you are going to drill buckets, see if you can get uniseals: they are recommended for round surfaces (as opposed to bulkheads which need to warp the surface flat in order to work).
 

notsonoob

Member
Originally Posted by Apos
http:///forum/post/2453488
Oh, and if you are going to drill buckets, see if you can get uniseals: they are recommended for round surfaces (as opposed to bulkheads which need to warp the surface flat in order to work).
That is why it is much better to get a container that is square.
 

apos

Member
Well, having a round surface is ideal for the flow required: i.e. no dead spots, no possibility of anything settling on the surface of the sand. Also, it's often cheaper since most people have old salt buckets lying around anyways.
 
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