Nitrate Issues

[dseiler]

First the system set up. I have a 55 gal reef. A lot of live rock, UV filter, venturi skimmer, millineum 3000 filter, 2 powerheads, two PC lights, I can't remember wattage but LFS that I trust said it is plenty. Temp runs at about 79-80. I have the purple good growth that I can't think of the name of. Everything is happy and growing.
Problem: I CANNOT get my nitrate levels below 40. I have tried different tests so the number is right. All other levels are at 0. The tank has been running for about a year fine, but no matter how often I change the water, or how much i change, it always stays about 40. Anyone have any ideas on what the heck is going on?

 

[bluecrab]

Is it possible that you have too many fish in the tank ? I think that can cause high nitrate levels.

 

[adrian]

Does you millenium 3000 contain the bio grid? Do you run a protien skimmer? How heavily stocked is your tank? What is the depth off your sand bed? What is the purpose of the UV? This will help answere your ?

 

[dseiler]

Originally posted by ADRON420:
<STRONG>Does you millenium 3000 contain the bio grid? Do you run a protien skimmer? How heavily stocked is your tank? What is the depth off your sand bed? What is the purpose of the UV? This will help answere your ?</STRONG>
The millenium has two of the bio grids plus the carbon bag/filter. I run a sea clone skimmer. As far as fish:
1 yellow eye tang
1 tomato clown
1 six line wrasse
1 snowflake eel
2 stupid useless, if I could catch them without taking apart the whole system I would, damsels.
and a pretty decent cleaning crew
I have a crushed coral sand bed that is only in the front half of the tank that is about 1".
I run the UV sterilizer for water quality. I had a terrible algae bloom one time and it cleared it up. I have kept it since. There is a lot of natural light where my tank is. I try to keep it as dark as possible, but there is no way to keep the tank in a closet.
Thanks

 

[adrian]

The fact that you have the bio grids in the filter is one of the reasons you have trates, overfeeding, and depending on the size of the eel and what he is fed, could also lead to higer trates. The bio grids can only accomplish a couple of the step of the nitrogen cycle, ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate which leaves a constant rate of nitrates in the tank at all times. I would suggest beefing up your sand bed and fauna and removing the millenium filter, of course this would have to be done slowly and the filter should be removed after the sandbed has matured. A deep enough sandbed will allow certain bacteria to colonate that can break nitrates into free nitrogen. I would alo invest in a better skimmer if you paln on being in the hobby for a while. HTH

 

[nacl-h2o]

Where do you get the water for your mix and do you purify it. Get a fresh water nitrate test and test your source water you could be putting water contaning 40ppm nitrates in your tank through the water changes and thats why you can't get it down. If your using tap water its most likely your problem it's frequintly high in nitrates, phosphates, silicates and many more undesirable contaminates. Often an inability to reduce nitrates or phosphates through water changes is caused by contaminated source water. GOOD LUCK!

 

[jimi]

Could be a couple of things. A one inch crushed coral bed is an excellent nitrate producer, try a dsb or no substrate and I would recommend you upgrade to a decent skimmer.

 

[snowcrab]

I run the seaclone skimmer on my 65 gal reef. it does a fine job? is there a reason why no one on this board likes this skimmer? if it does something it is not suppose to do please let me know so I can replace it. if not why dont people like this unit? The only problem I have had with it , the sponge filter on its power head gets clogged sometimes with algae other than that its easy to maintain and clean it has plenty of flow and will over skim if you need it to.

 

[snowcrab]

I agree with dan the man -- check the water you use for make up water if it is tap water and some cases well water it can be loaded with high levels of nitrates phosphates and metals -- test it --- if you cant afford RO water then a good source is bottled spring water in 5 gal jugs like you see at bussiness. however you need to test this water also to se there level. this is the water i use it works great but I do plan on investing in a ro unit.

 

[dseiler]

I am using RO water and it tests at zero. I will look into a DSB, but I like the look of the CC. I am still curious why everyone here seems to hate the seaclone skimmer. I get the fowlest smelling, dark green slime from it. I figured it was doing its job well.

 

[dseiler]

Another question. If I go to a DSB, how much sand do I need for a 55 gal? Also could I put the CC I have over it? What about the sand sifting starfish i have, would he disrupt the LS? Do I have to take out the LR that is in the tank, put the sand down and then put the LR in again? I know these are a lot of questons, and I appologize, but a DSB is new to me.

 

[slk3599]

The Seaclone is under powered for your size tank and the large eaters that you have in it. It is probably skimming but not enough for the size tank you have. If you got a better skimmer rated for a larger tank I would place money that you would see a difference in your nitrate levels. I filled my seaclone with sand and use it as an anchor
Also, you make like the look of crushed coral but it is a nitrate producer. I changed from cc to sand in my 75 FOWLR . My nitrates when from 50/ppm to less than 10/ppm.
[ April 20, 2001: Message edited by: slk3599 ]

 

[burnnspy]

CC is a good way to generate nitrates, in heavily fed tanks the CC collects excess food and converts it into nitrates. I recommend adding 4" of Seaflor aragonite over a plenum.
I would remove all chemical and mechanical filtration form the Millenium and use it as a pump only.
When the system becomes stable and nitrate reduction is in place, you will find the UV unnecessary.
BurnNSpy
[ April 20, 2001: Message edited by: BurnNSpy ]

 

[tnreef]

Try adding a couple of inches of L.S. to your substate. A DSB will reduce your trates. About 4 inches will work wonders.