Nitrate's won't go away!! Confused severly!! Help

noah793

New Member
Ok, I have a 55 gallon fish only tank.. Been up and running for 3 years almost now. This is the problem: my nitrates on my nitrate tester( not strip) indicates high levels.. I'm in the red. Now I have done water changes every two weeks 10% even 20% still no change. I have hooked up to the tank a basic mechanical filter/ bakpak skimmer. All have been running well. I cleAN the filter once every 3 weeks and the skimmer has been hooked up last month but after the first few days of skimming only lil bits of skimmate pulling.. Not sure if there is suppost to be constant skim?? But anyway red and dark algae are constantly being spotted on the back and sides of the tank.. I have to scrap them off and it looks like dark peels of algae when scrapped. My power heads aren't sticking to the glass anymore. All my large inverts have died only the lil ones live. Fish: tang/2damsels/ clown/ star fish and pencil urch. All the fish are doing well but why are my nitrates not going down???? I have the lighting turned auto on at 11 am off at 8pm feed every other day. I'm confused and upset.. What is the problem.. Why am I getting this algae and what am I doing wrong? I ha skimmer/ mech filter/ do water changes... Still off the hook nitrates. I used to have anemz and large crabs for long time and now can't have them they die!!! Pleasesomeone help me!
 

bang guy

Moderator
As you have already correctly deduced, Nitrates have to be exported to reduce the levels.
If you are only doing water changes then you need to remove more Nitrate than is added. If 20% didn't lower the Nitrate levels then it would appear that the nitrates are building up faster than what a 20% water change can remove.
I'd recommend you get a better test kit first or you're not going to know if the actions you are taking are effective. High & Low is not nearly precise enough to track levels. Get a kit that will tell you the level in PPM and then you can tell when you lower levels from 100ppm to 80ppm. Otherwise you're just shooting in the dark.
A few things can help. You can try each individually or in combination.
Larger water changes to start with. 50% or more just to get the levels down to a reasonable number.
An algae scrubber or a refugium containing algae. The ide is to grow something that consumes Nitrate, harvest it, and get it out of the system.
Feed less. Your fish should be VERY happy to see you. They shouldn't be starving, but when you overfeed the fish will purge whatever is in their system and this quickly leads to Nitrate and Phosphate overload.
A remote deep sand bed can also help.
More live rock.
Increase waterflow.
 

fmarini

Member
I had written this for somewhere else and its applicable here. Maybe you'll find this useful
Reduction of nitrates in your fishtank

Determine the factors that contribute to your nitrate problem such as: high fish bioload, overfeeding, reduced frequency/volume of water changes, and water source. Changing any of these factors can help. As a quick fix, increase you frequency and volume of water changes. However long term, look towards some form of increased nutrient export such as including a remote sand bed, refugium, or combination.
Below are a list of common factors that contribute to increasing nitrates in your fish tank, and my recommendation on how to reduce it.
Overfeeding- the largest input source of nitrogen in your tank is food, so feeding less will be supplying less input nitrogen- do this within reason.
Reduce bioload- more fish equal more fish waste. Reducing a few fish will go along way to increasing water quality. This concept is critical in small tanks with little water volume.
Increase water exchanges- more frequent and consistent water changes will remove and dilute existing nitrates.
Export nutrients by skimming-or increase your amount of skimming. While excessive nitrates are not directly removed by skimming, adjusting your skimmer to collect slightly wet or wet foam will remove many particulate and DOC waste before its converted, additionally, increased skimming will increase oxygenation
Export by growing/harvesting macroalgaes- plants prefer to use ammonium compounds for fertilizer, and can be purposefully planted in the sump or refugium. The more you grow and harvest, the more nitrogens will be exported
Add a deep sand bed or a remote sand bucket- Sandbed are becoming quite common place in the home aquarium and using a deeper bed (>4”) facilitate the creation of anaerobic zones in which anaerobic bacteria can reduce nitrate into nitrogen gas and O2. These deep sand beds can be placed in your sump or refugium or used a remote deep sand bucket. This concept pioneered by Anthony Calfo (a noted author in the marine aquarium hobby) uses a bucket 2/3 filled with sugar-sized sand and plumbed inside or outside your sump. A small powerhead (50-200gal/hr) pumps water into the bucket, and nitrates are processed at the depths of this bucket. This bucket concept is extremely useful to transfer from tank-to-tank once established.
Remove existing wet/dryes or filter media- the wet/drys do such a great job at converting ammonia to nitrite ad nitrate, but do nothing with the accumulating nitrates (which requires anerobic bacteria to process). Many hobbyist have had success with slowly removing the filter media in the wet/drys and allowing more of the nitrogen cycle processing to take place on the live rock and in the sand beds
Denitrators- A number of commercial systems are available, and these are becoming popular with hobbyists. The two most common denitrator types use carbon or sulfur, in which bacteria use methanol or elemental sulfur and produce nitrogen
Nitrate absorbing compounds- various aluminum oxides and zeolite products (kent nitrate sponge)
Polymers and carbons that bind organics
--=-=-=-=-=-=
frank
 
Originally Posted by Noah793
http:///forum/post/3244167
Ok, I have a 55 gallon fish only tank.. Been up and running for 3 years almost now. This is the problem: my nitrates on my nitrate tester( not strip) indicates high levels.. I'm in the red. Now I have done water changes every two weeks 10% even 20% still no change. I have hooked up to the tank a basic mechanical filter/ bakpak skimmer. All have been running well. I cleAN the filter once every 3 weeks and the skimmer has been hooked up last month but after the first few days of skimming only lil bits of skimmate pulling.. Not sure if there is suppost to be constant skim?? But anyway red and dark algae are constantly being spotted on the back and sides of the tank.. I have to scrap them off and it looks like dark peels of algae when scrapped. My power heads aren't sticking to the glass anymore. All my large inverts have died only the lil ones live. Fish: tang/2damsels/ clown/ star fish and pencil urch. All the fish are doing well but why are my nitrates not going down???? I have the lighting turned auto on at 11 am off at 8pm feed every other day. I'm confused and upset.. What is the problem.. Why am I getting this algae and what am I doing wrong? I ha skimmer/ mech filter/ do water changes... Still off the hook nitrates. I used to have anemz and large crabs for long time and now can't have them they die!!! Pleasesomeone help me!
I have a couple questions before jumping to any speculation. You said you feed every other day, which is fine, but how much are you feeding your fish? Do they consume all the food within five minutes? I feed three times everyday, but very small amounts of foods. ( Theyre usally done within three min.) My next question is directed toward your algae problem. You said you have to scrape the algae from the glass. When you do this are you removing the excess algae when your done? If both of these things are in order maybee something was done to disturb the biological syste. If thats the case, the water changes your doing are preventing the biological system from stabilizing. My advice is to pull a 20% water change wait three days and repeat until you see a drop in nitrates.
ps get some live rock
 

erifish3

Member
I had nitrates in the 160ppm range easily in my 100g. I went down to the 40ppm range by doing 2 50% water changes in 10 days and 20% weekly water changes for 6 weeks. Still in the 40ppm range 3 months later and back to doing by-weekly 20% changes.
 
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