octopus vs asm

grubsnaek

Active Member
hurt,2 questions.
1. how many layers of mesh did you intall???
2. what size tank is your modded skimmer on???cause their rated for a 250g and with this mod, prolly around 300-350g....
 

grubsnaek

Active Member
this threads helps alot, i mean alot...i am more of a hand and eyes on type of guy. i can understand directions, but i pick it up so much faster when seeing it....if there was a poll i would mark down helpful
 

hurt

Active Member
Grubsnaek, I currently have a 55g DT+10g sump+20g fuge. I recently got a 75g RR that I will soon switch out with 55g DT. No doubt it's overkill for my system, but I wouldn't have it any other way. I personally think all manufacturers overrate their skimmers big time. I'd say a modded NW-200 would be good for a moderately stocked 180 or a heavily stocked 120. Of course I could make my skimmer a recirc very easily by drilling another hole for the OTP pump along with a smaller hole to feed the skimmer. If I did that I'd say it would handle a 250g heavily stocked easily.
Doing those mods made a HUGE DIFFERENCE in performance, and takes out a lot more junk since modding it, so it was definitely worth it. I probably spent $15 doing all those mods I mentioned.
 

hurt

Active Member
Also, I used three layers of enkamat. It's hard to tell in the picture, because the fishing line tied the enkamat down very tight so it won't rub against the volute.
 

grubsnaek

Active Member
gotcha, and damn on a 55 or even a 75. but i also like over rating them...
jonrn, have you made any decisions
 

jonrn

Member
grubsnaek, yep, i already ordered my nw 200 and mesh kit. it should be here next week. thank you guys for all the infos. i kinda know how to put the mesh now but i still cant get that part when you you do the venturi and the elbow thing. any pictures of that part
ill post step by step process too once i get all my stuff
 

hurt

Active Member
I've done a few different one's. The first was done with a new piece of PVC. Not sure of the exact size, but take your cover into lowes and look for the correct size that will fit on the threads, it must be a reducer. As you can see in this pic it is the gray piece. Once you s c r e w this on, take a drill and drill a hole for the new/larger venturi. Of course you want to drill the hole on top so the new air line goes straight up.
I don't have any pics of the 1/4" male to male water fitting, but next time I take my pump off line to clean it I'll snap a pic. Go to Lowes, and in the plumbing section, you will see water fittings(John Guest). Look for a PLASTIC
(don't buy the copper piece) 1/4' male to male fitting. That is what I then used to plug into the hole I drilled. If it's loose at all use some super glue gel to seal it up.
I then bought a piece of 1/4' rubber tubing and attached it to the 1/4 male to male water fitting to feed air above the water line. The last pic shows this piece.


 

hurt

Active Member
Here is another one I made using the stock intake that comes with the OTP 3000 pump. The only difference in this one is it uses a different attachment for the air line(not the 1/4' male to male plastic fitting found at Lowes) As you can see in the second pic the 1/4' male to male water fitting should be cut at an angle, with the short side facing back to the needlewheel. You can also see in the second pic the original venturi hole at the top of the gray circle(much smaller than the new one I made which is the whole point of doing this mod, you don't choke the pump of air, and this will let it take in a lot more air).

 

grubsnaek

Active Member
so hurt does that replace the original air intake to the pump. just so im getting this rite, this mod makes the pump pull more air????
one of my boys has a octo NW-100 on a 29DT w/10g sump....i mite do this mod, the mesh mod, and the skimmer return line mod....and it should be straight for his tank.....
if this thread had the pics of the skimmer return mod, it should go straight into the archeives.
this is a very knowledgable thread with very valuble info....great thread guys.
Hurt great info....
 

jonrn

Member
great pics hurt, that was really helpful. question though...after you drill on the pump and connect the fitting and connect an airline tubing, do you need to put back anything on the pump like the cover and do you just leave the other end of the airline tubing open to air or put something like a regulator? my mesh kit just came today. just waiting for the skimmer now.
 

hurt

Active Member
Grubsnaek, yes it replaces the original air intake/venturi. The larger diameter of the tubing allows the pump to pull in more air. It basically doesn't choke/govern air flow like the original venturi does. If you don't put enkamat on the needlewheel and only do the venturi mod, it probably won't make that much of a difference. But, when you do put enkamat on the needlewheel, you can pull a lot more air with this venturi. You must do both mods to get the full effect.
As I remember a stock OTP 3000 pulls 10 SCFH(standard cubic feet (of air) per hour), after you do both these mods it should pull around 30 SCFH. So you triple the amount air your skimmer pulls.
 

hurt

Active Member
I'll try to post a pic of my return later evening. I did not use a ball valve for mine, just some PVC with a Y to vent it. From what I've read you only want to use a ball valve for the return on recirc skimmers. The purpose of the return mod is to vent the pressure so the water level in the skimmer is consistent. In post #27(3rd pic) you can see most of my return on the right.
 

hurt

Active Member
Johrn, not exactly sure of what you are asking, but you do have to put the pump cover back on, enclosing the needlwheel as it was before. The end of the black air line tubing is just as is (without the silencer). You can see it in post #27-3rd pic.
 

hurt

Active Member
Here are some more pics of the venturi. The 1/4' male to male plastic water fitting is shown in all pics. You can see in the first pic the 1/4' male to male fitting is cut at an angle, with the short side facing the needlewheel, and the long side facing the skimmer inlet.



 

hurt

Active Member
And the vented return. It was made entirely of 2" PVC. THe Y at the top is what vents the return so there is constant back pressure, instead of uneven back pressure associated with a stock return. It functions the exact same way though. You raise it or lower it just like a normal riser to adjust water height in the skimmer.

 

hurt

Active Member
For an Octopus NW-200 you have to use 2" for it to fit over top the original standpipe. If you went any smaller it would not fit.
 
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